http://www.painttalk.com From initial prep to final coat. Discuss it here. en Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:23:57 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.painttalk.com/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.painttalk.com http://www.painttalk.com/f6/mdf-pre-primed-hollowcore-doors-10450/ Thu, 09 Sep 2010 10:26:18 GMT Hi hope to get some sound advice, we have imported some doors from China and they have been pre-primed. Our painters have applied a coat having... Hi hope to get some sound advice, we have imported some doors from China and they have been pre-primed. Our painters have applied a coat having initally sanded down and there are tramlines down the edges of the doors. The painter is telling me it is due to the process the door went through when being pre-primed (through rollers) that have left marks. He is not offering any advice in rectifying this. Is this a common problem? could the lines be down to the type of paint he has used. We want to end up with a smooth gloss finish but with this line issue evident he tells me the top coat will make it even more noticable. Any advice would be grateful. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application blueracer70 http://www.painttalk.com/f6/mdf-pre-primed-hollowcore-doors-10450/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/re-staining-exterior-door-10444/ Wed, 08 Sep 2010 20:07:37 GMT I have a door that needs re-staining. It appears that whoever the first painter to do this door used regular polyurethane as the finish coat. This... I have a door that needs re-staining. It appears that whoever the first painter to do this door used regular polyurethane as the finish coat. This door sits in direct morning sunlight, so you can imagine what it has done. Apparently another painter or homeowner (I believe to be the latter) has come in and applied gel stain without sanding to the door in an attempt to revive the door. Of course it is peeling as well. This is a very detailed front door and it would be a shame to paint this door. Too much sanding would damage the doors beautiful woodwork. My question is what would you suggest as far as getting the surface far enough that it would take gel stain correctly and apply a spar urethane (which should have been done in the first place)? Would lacquer thinner and steel wool be too much for the wood? Any suggestions would be greatful. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application jkuykendoll http://www.painttalk.com/f6/re-staining-exterior-door-10444/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/painting-soffits-same-trim-color-10421/ Mon, 06 Sep 2010 15:30:26 GMT I have a HO that wants her house the "same" as it is now. Build in 1994 and has soffits the same color of the trim/gutters. I have never run into this before....I know it may be odd but I havn't.

Anyone have and tips/tricks on getting that done in an efficient mannor. Not sure if I should spray the body first and then some how "sheild" the body. or vise versa. Or even what to sheild it with....thought paper.
Any tips would be great! As I am trying to get a bid out asap.

Also, not that I would want a number but does any one charge extra for that since there is more prep work. I would assume yes, but you know where that gets ya. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application ezpaintks http://www.painttalk.com/f6/painting-soffits-same-trim-color-10421/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/deck-preparation-10419/ Mon, 06 Sep 2010 14:16:31 GMT Looking at re-staining a Redwood deck. I was thinking of using a chemical strip on the handrails, spindles and stairs followed by power-washing and... Looking at re-staining a Redwood deck. I was thinking of using a chemical strip on the handrails, spindles and stairs followed by power-washing and lightly sanding. The deck itself has little to no stain left on the surface. I was thinking about renting a floor sander using 80 grit to open the pores of the wood a bit to accept stain. Is this an over kill, or would power washing alone suffice. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application bay area contractor http://www.painttalk.com/f6/deck-preparation-10419/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/who-wants-bet-10417/ Mon, 06 Sep 2010 05:58:43 GMT I got a neighbor and she decided to tackle the 2nd half of her garage this weekend lol.

Anyways, here's the upshot. I saw her and said hi and noticed she was priming all the wood siding with bullseye interior. I was considering telling her it was interior but she had the whole side just about coated already. She got it painted today.

So whats going to happen? Even if I had told her and gave her some exterior primer and she primed over the interior primer, would that have changed anything? Anybody wanna place some bets on the outcome of the siding? Its an old single stall wood garage, circa 1948. Cheers, and happy labour day. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application TJ Paint http://www.painttalk.com/f6/who-wants-bet-10417/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/copper-paint-metal-10412/ Sun, 05 Sep 2010 22:05:43 GMT I have a metal spiral staircase to repaint, and it was originally sprayed with some kind of antique copper finish. It is wearing off and they want... I have a metal spiral staircase to repaint, and it was originally sprayed with some kind of antique copper finish. It is wearing off and they want the same look . Might have even been out of a rattle can, but now many years later it is in a finished house, surrounded by open wood- cedar I think, so I want to try and brush it, but most metallic paints really suck for brushing and the acrylic ones have no coverage. Any suggestions on material?
Thx ]]> Surface Preparation and Application BrushJockey http://www.painttalk.com/f6/copper-paint-metal-10412/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/graco-edge-hvlp-gun-10400/ Sat, 04 Sep 2010 01:35:00 GMT Does anyone know if it is normal to have some air coming out around the trigger while the turbine is on? Does anyone know if it is normal to have some air coming out around the trigger while the turbine is on? ]]> Surface Preparation and Application graypaint http://www.painttalk.com/f6/graco-edge-hvlp-gun-10400/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/mad-dog-primer-cedar-after-paintshaver-10399/ Sat, 04 Sep 2010 01:08:28 GMT I'm painting my dads house, a 100+ year old cedar clapboard house. I'm using my new paintshaver pro which does a pretty fast and amazing job at removing all the nasty old paint, leaving fresh clean wood.

I was planning on doing a scrape-and-paint with Mad Dog and Aura/Duration, before I got the paintshaver. I have done some small patches priming with mad dog and topcoating with Aura and it seems to work great, supposedly blocking rust and tannin, and gluing down the corners and edges where the grinder misses(and I don't have the patience to remove completely...and I'm not exactly getting paid for this...).

I'm wondering if anyone thinks this is a bad idea. Oil primer is a little cheaper, but not much(~$10/gal less), and mad dog is much easier to apply. I'm in new territory however, this is the first house I have stripped bare, so any advice would be much appreciated...my standard treatment for that last 10 years is oil spot prime followed by Duration. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application 4sp http://www.painttalk.com/f6/mad-dog-primer-cedar-after-paintshaver-10399/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/what-use-fir-beams-10370/ Wed, 01 Sep 2010 22:25:37 GMT The fir beams will be located on a 3 season porch with screens on a lake in NH. So it will get all types of weather. Normally we use Helmsman Satin... The fir beams will be located on a 3 season porch with screens on a lake in NH. So it will get all types of weather.

Normally we use Helmsman Satin poly and apply 3 coats. But would using a spar varnish such as BM 440 Spar varnish be any better or longer lasting?

I have been having to repair some other painters work (not that I mind the work), where I assume they only put 1 coat of exterior poly on the beam. And of course the poly has been cracking and flaking off.

And if the Varnish is a better way to go, can any suggest a good varish in a satin finish.

thanks for any help ]]> Surface Preparation and Application Brett http://www.painttalk.com/f6/what-use-fir-beams-10370/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/how-avoid-cracking-10346/ Tue, 31 Aug 2010 01:50:02 GMT I'm going to be refinishing the sides of a very old trolley car. There is a horizontal wooden side panel that runs about 30 feet. It adjoins the main wooden support beam for the full length. The two are very tightly joined. It's impossible to even insert a razor blade tip into the joint. But wood moves. And it flexes at different rates.

And that's why the last paint job has developed cracking and therefore let in moisture and therefore starting bubbling. All right at the long horizontal joint. We are currently using Fine Paints of Europe for its durability.

How can I repaint the side of this trolley without developing cracking caused by microscopic wood movement? Thanks for any ideas from the pros. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application Maineiacs http://www.painttalk.com/f6/how-avoid-cracking-10346/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/hvlp-orange-peel-10345/ Tue, 31 Aug 2010 01:44:45 GMT Trying out my new Graco 9.0, 4 stage HVLP on some old furniture. Using BM Satin Impervo alkyd, #4 fluid set (1.8 mm). I thinned the paint by 10%... Trying out my new Graco 9.0, 4 stage HVLP on some old furniture. Using BM Satin Impervo alkyd, #4 fluid set (1.8 mm). I thinned the paint by 10% w/mineral spirits and also added 5% penetrol. Still getting an orange peel finish. Any suggestions? Thanks. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application graypaint http://www.painttalk.com/f6/hvlp-orange-peel-10345/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/hvlp-material-thinning-10327/ Sat, 28 Aug 2010 20:05:38 GMT Just got my first HVLP - Graco 9.0 4-stage turbine. Totally used to airless & not having to thin my product. For those of you that spray with an HVLP, what needle size do you typically use for oil enamels and how much do you thin them? Do you use straight thinner, or Penetrol as well? Thanks for the help. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application graypaint http://www.painttalk.com/f6/hvlp-material-thinning-10327/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/new-one-me-10315/ Thu, 26 Aug 2010 23:41:37 GMT Ok, So I'm going to do an exterior front porch next week. The situation is..... The HO put numerous coats of boiled linseed oil on the two support posts, and at a later date they were painted over. The linseed oil is slowly leaching out and the existing coating is failing because of it. The spots that are bare are stickey with the stuff!

I told the HO during the estimate that the best solution was to replace the support posts because there was no way to effectivley take care of the problem. I told him that if we were to sand, clean and paint, that the problem would still persist. He elected to not replace the posts with the understanding that the problem would return and that I would not warantee that part of the job.

My question is, what primer would you use given the situation? I'm thinking a long oil would have the best chance at penetration and be the best option.......... ]]> Surface Preparation and Application http://www.painttalk.com/f6/new-one-me-10315/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/painting-over-10307/ Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:21:31 GMT Alright, although I am a contractor, I have a question about something for myself. I have a room which currently had this kind of wall papering:... Alright,
although I am a contractor, I have a question about something for myself.

I have a room which currently had this kind of wall papering: http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-3680...ackground.html

I ripped it off, but the glue is left underneath. I am not really interested in a big ordeal, in fact, the room will have some exercise equipment in it, and does not need to look good. I would really just like to spray something over the glue and paint it, regardless of the wall imperfections. Is there anything that one could spray which you think would stick to that, and hide a bit?

Or is there an easy way to remove that glue, it is different than normal wall paper glue.

PS- this is not indicative of how I conduct business with clients, this is just a fast fix for something I need to get done asap. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application Dunbar Painting http://www.painttalk.com/f6/painting-over-10307/ http://www.painttalk.com/f6/natura-painter-issue-color-difference-surfaces-10302/ Wed, 25 Aug 2010 23:40:45 GMT Using BM Natura eggshell on a large 3 story hallway. Walls are have a flat, light yellow paint. It looks like a thin-ish 1 coat on top of a light... Using BM Natura eggshell on a large 3 story hallway. Walls are have a flat, light yellow paint. It looks like a thin-ish 1 coat on top of a light pink. Walls were very lightly sanded with 150, and swept down. Walls were clean. No grease. No nicotine. Usually wipe down but did not this time. Walls are plaster. I used a metal electrical cover plate that had the original wall color to get a match. Paint was matched, using both cover plate for comparison at store, on stir stick at job site and a dab on top of white tape on can lid. I tell you all this, because...on 3 different test areas on walls, light yellow magically changes to a darker yellow with an olive tone. I took damp rag to see if any chalky stuff was coming off. Nothing. Paint was used day of mix, and stirred again before test(s). What the... Again, this paint on anything other than the wall its supposed to go on is correct color match, therefore, its the wall. Argh. Shoulda used Aura, or primed. But it looked okay...wah. ]]> Surface Preparation and Application kdpaint http://www.painttalk.com/f6/natura-painter-issue-color-difference-surfaces-10302/