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Old 01-08-2017, 01:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by MurphysPaint View Post
I am hoping the HVLP will allow me to spray a set of cabinet doors without having a layer of overspray caked to the floor of my booth. I'm hoping it will allow me to slow things down and have better control over the coverage on fine finish projects. I'm hoping it will reduce masking time and materials. I'm hoping it will eliminate blow outs. I'm hoping it will allow me to spray railings and balustrades without sending a gallon of finish into the air. I'm hoping that it will reduce the amount of airborne particulates resulting in a better finish, especially when working in tight spaces. I'm hoping that it will be easier to switch products when compared to my airless. I'm hoping I can spray oil based products when required, which I will not do with my airless. Other than that I haven't given it much thought, which is why I appreciate all the feedback.

Doing a demo is a great idea, I will see if I can get that set up in a reasonable time. I'm in a smaller city, so the reps don't usually frequent my area.
Sounds about right. Depends on how you control the gun/material.

I can put out a huge cloud of finish when I spray clears with the HVLP. I usually do, just because I like putting the material on thick. If you don't put it thick, it doesn't level out as nicely, you don't have the millage you need, you need multiple coats sometimes, and if your not careful you can dry spray the finish which is worse than getting overspray on the finish.

But from what you describe it sounds like an HVLP is indeed something that you would probably be needing. Switching over from oil/water is easier...but it requires cleaning.

Note: You MUST* clean the HVLP gun really well for it to function good in anyway. If ours has some build-up or lacquers which eat the gaskets up, it likes to screw up the spraying and you have tons of down time trying to clean the thing. The airlets have to be cleaned, the intake tube has to be cleaned, etc. It's not a gun/unit that you can just forget about for two days or have tons of paint build-up on and think it'll just blow it all out and work just fine on the next job.
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodcoyote View Post
Sounds about right. Depends on how you control the gun/material.

I can put out a huge cloud of finish when I spray clears with the HVLP. I usually do, just because I like putting the material on thick. If you don't put it thick, it doesn't level out as nicely, you don't have the millage you need, you need multiple coats sometimes, and if your not careful you can dry spray the finish which is worse than getting overspray on the finish.

But from what you describe it sounds like an HVLP is indeed something that you would probably be needing. Switching over from oil/water is easier...but it requires cleaning.

Note: You MUST* clean the HVLP gun really well for it to function good in anyway. If ours has some build-up or lacquers which eat the gaskets up, it likes to screw up the spraying and you have tons of down time trying to clean the thing. The airlets have to be cleaned, the intake tube has to be cleaned, etc. It's not a gun/unit that you can just forget about for two days or have tons of paint build-up on and think it'll just blow it all out and work just fine on the next job.


That's a good point. I'm meticulous with my airless (most of the time) but I can see how it would be even more crucial with the HVLP.


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Old 01-12-2017, 06:18 PM   #23
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I have the Titan 95. When it was purchased it was used to paint new construction exterior doors. We always used fast dry acrylic thinned with xylene. Works great for that. I've used it to prime raw wood with zinsser BIN shellac. Also a great use for.

I "tried" spraying thinned oil primer through it with little success. I bought an extra cap spray needle assembly with a bigger orifice which helped but wasn't the answer by any means.

Moral of the story. Air from a turbine can only atomize paint with the viscosity of water. 😀 That's why the airless sprayer was invented. Lol.

I'm with whoever suggested the AAA. That thing is the best of both worlds. I'm convinced it pays for itself just in the amount of paint saved. The transfer efficiency is phenomenal. However, it doesn't solve the problem of quart sized projects, or switching back and forth between solvents and latex.

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Old 01-12-2017, 10:59 PM   #24
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Hopefully he has more luck contacting Titan reps unlike me. After almost 2 years and still calling our Titan rep about our other sprayers they have yet to even try to call me or email me back. I will never buy Titan new again. Graco the rep was great, explained a lot about the different sprayers they offer. We ended up buying the 395 FP. I'm also looking to replace our Titan Advantage 700 with a Graco this summer.

Might be selling off all of our Titan sprayers soon.
I'm with you. I am most likely done with Titan. I have a 440 and I do like it. But the rep that sold me my Capspray did all the right things for me to buy it. But when I let him know how unhappy I was with it and told him its not doing what I bought it for. He couldn't help me. I went as far to ask him If he would check to see what he could give me for it on a trade in for a AAA sprayer. He didn't even check he said Sorry I can't help you on that one. So Graco, Here I come.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:00 PM   #25
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Default Capspray 95

Here's an update of my situation. I purchased the Capspray 95 for $1400 CAD (about $1040 USD).
Current project is applying a clear coat to an oak balustrade and safety railing, a pine feature wall and a wooden mantle. I have run tests with Varathane Professional Clear WB finish (unthinned) with excellent results.



Working with an HVLP certainly has a larger than expected learning curve but I've been methodical with my testing and am getting the hang of it. Anyway, still tons to learn, more coatings to experiment with, and I will continue to share my feedback and results.

Thanks everyone for your valuable input.

Edit : the sample wood is scrap from the lumber yard and does have a slight texture from the saw. I didn't want to go nuts with the sanding.


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Old 01-13-2017, 11:48 PM   #26
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Here's a tip. Don't throw away those snagged panty hose. Use it to strain your paint for your HVLP. And do the stir stick test to guage your viscosity.

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Old 01-14-2017, 12:10 AM   #27
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Here's a tip. Don't throw away those snagged panty hose. Use it to strain your paint for your HVLP. And do the stir stick test to guage your viscosity.

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Do I look like the kind of girl who snags her panty hose? Na-uh.

Luckily the Capspray came with a viscosity cup. I tested the poly before applying, took notes of every application and labelled all my sample boards. I'm going to get this down to a science. Bonus is that I am actually having a lot of fun running the tests.


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Old 01-17-2017, 10:08 AM   #28
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I meant your wife/ girlfriend / or date's panty hose :-D

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Old 01-17-2017, 08:17 PM   #29
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Speaking of panty hose.

Buy the knee high. Those will stretch around a 1-gallon bucket to strain paint. (Ankle high won't) But with the knee high, tie a knot about half way up, cut off the excess and use the upper portion for the gallon bucket strainer. Save the other end and use for a quart cup strainer.

I feel like I just wrote a tip for "Hints From Heloise".
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:35 PM   #30
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First job with the new capspray. It's already earning it's purchase price and I'm loving it!


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