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Old 01-08-2017, 12:52 PM   #21
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I am hoping the HVLP will allow me to spray a set of cabinet doors without having a layer of overspray caked to the floor of my booth. I'm hoping it will allow me to slow things down and have better control over the coverage on fine finish projects. I'm hoping it will reduce masking time and materials. I'm hoping it will eliminate blow outs. I'm hoping it will allow me to spray railings and balustrades without sending a gallon of finish into the air. I'm hoping that it will reduce the amount of airborne particulates resulting in a better finish, especially when working in tight spaces. I'm hoping that it will be easier to switch products when compared to my airless. I'm hoping I can spray oil based products when required, which I will not do with my airless. Other than that I haven't given it much thought, which is why I appreciate all the feedback.

Doing a demo is a great idea, I will see if I can get that set up in a reasonable time. I'm in a smaller city, so the reps don't usually frequent my area.
Sounds about right. Depends on how you control the gun/material.

I can put out a huge cloud of finish when I spray clears with the HVLP. I usually do, just because I like putting the material on thick. If you don't put it thick, it doesn't level out as nicely, you don't have the millage you need, you need multiple coats sometimes, and if your not careful you can dry spray the finish which is worse than getting overspray on the finish.

But from what you describe it sounds like an HVLP is indeed something that you would probably be needing. Switching over from oil/water is easier...but it requires cleaning.

Note: You MUST* clean the HVLP gun really well for it to function good in anyway. If ours has some build-up or lacquers which eat the gaskets up, it likes to screw up the spraying and you have tons of down time trying to clean the thing. The airlets have to be cleaned, the intake tube has to be cleaned, etc. It's not a gun/unit that you can just forget about for two days or have tons of paint build-up on and think it'll just blow it all out and work just fine on the next job.
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Old 01-08-2017, 02:08 PM   #22
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Sounds about right. Depends on how you control the gun/material.

I can put out a huge cloud of finish when I spray clears with the HVLP. I usually do, just because I like putting the material on thick. If you don't put it thick, it doesn't level out as nicely, you don't have the millage you need, you need multiple coats sometimes, and if your not careful you can dry spray the finish which is worse than getting overspray on the finish.

But from what you describe it sounds like an HVLP is indeed something that you would probably be needing. Switching over from oil/water is easier...but it requires cleaning.

Note: You MUST* clean the HVLP gun really well for it to function good in anyway. If ours has some build-up or lacquers which eat the gaskets up, it likes to screw up the spraying and you have tons of down time trying to clean the thing. The airlets have to be cleaned, the intake tube has to be cleaned, etc. It's not a gun/unit that you can just forget about for two days or have tons of paint build-up on and think it'll just blow it all out and work just fine on the next job.


That's a good point. I'm meticulous with my airless (most of the time) but I can see how it would be even more crucial with the HVLP.


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Old 01-12-2017, 05:18 PM   #23
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I have the Titan 95. When it was purchased it was used to paint new construction exterior doors. We always used fast dry acrylic thinned with xylene. Works great for that. I've used it to prime raw wood with zinsser BIN shellac. Also a great use for.

I "tried" spraying thinned oil primer through it with little success. I bought an extra cap spray needle assembly with a bigger orifice which helped but wasn't the answer by any means.

Moral of the story. Air from a turbine can only atomize paint with the viscosity of water. 😀 That's why the airless sprayer was invented. Lol.

I'm with whoever suggested the AAA. That thing is the best of both worlds. I'm convinced it pays for itself just in the amount of paint saved. The transfer efficiency is phenomenal. However, it doesn't solve the problem of quart sized projects, or switching back and forth between solvents and latex.

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Old 01-12-2017, 09:59 PM   #24
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Hopefully he has more luck contacting Titan reps unlike me. After almost 2 years and still calling our Titan rep about our other sprayers they have yet to even try to call me or email me back. I will never buy Titan new again. Graco the rep was great, explained a lot about the different sprayers they offer. We ended up buying the 395 FP. I'm also looking to replace our Titan Advantage 700 with a Graco this summer.

Might be selling off all of our Titan sprayers soon.
I'm with you. I am most likely done with Titan. I have a 440 and I do like it. But the rep that sold me my Capspray did all the right things for me to buy it. But when I let him know how unhappy I was with it and told him its not doing what I bought it for. He couldn't help me. I went as far to ask him If he would check to see what he could give me for it on a trade in for a AAA sprayer. He didn't even check he said Sorry I can't help you on that one. So Graco, Here I come.
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Old 01-13-2017, 02:00 PM   #25
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Default Capspray 95

Here's an update of my situation. I purchased the Capspray 95 for $1400 CAD (about $1040 USD).
Current project is applying a clear coat to an oak balustrade and safety railing, a pine feature wall and a wooden mantle. I have run tests with Varathane Professional Clear WB finish (unthinned) with excellent results.



Working with an HVLP certainly has a larger than expected learning curve but I've been methodical with my testing and am getting the hang of it. Anyway, still tons to learn, more coatings to experiment with, and I will continue to share my feedback and results.

Thanks everyone for your valuable input.

Edit : the sample wood is scrap from the lumber yard and does have a slight texture from the saw. I didn't want to go nuts with the sanding.


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Old 01-13-2017, 10:48 PM   #26
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Here's a tip. Don't throw away those snagged panty hose. Use it to strain your paint for your HVLP. And do the stir stick test to guage your viscosity.

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Old 01-13-2017, 11:10 PM   #27
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Here's a tip. Don't throw away those snagged panty hose. Use it to strain your paint for your HVLP. And do the stir stick test to guage your viscosity.

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Do I look like the kind of girl who snags her panty hose? Na-uh.

Luckily the Capspray came with a viscosity cup. I tested the poly before applying, took notes of every application and labelled all my sample boards. I'm going to get this down to a science. Bonus is that I am actually having a lot of fun running the tests.


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Old 01-17-2017, 09:08 AM   #28
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I meant your wife/ girlfriend / or date's panty hose :-D

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Old 01-17-2017, 07:17 PM   #29
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Speaking of panty hose.

Buy the knee high. Those will stretch around a 1-gallon bucket to strain paint. (Ankle high won't) But with the knee high, tie a knot about half way up, cut off the excess and use the upper portion for the gallon bucket strainer. Save the other end and use for a quart cup strainer.

I feel like I just wrote a tip for "Hints From Heloise".
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Old 01-18-2017, 10:35 PM   #30
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First job with the new capspray. It's already earning it's purchase price and I'm loving it!


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Old 02-19-2017, 08:02 AM   #31
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For larger projects with wood finishes the air assist airless has a lot of merit. It sprays like airless but you use lower pressures which saves paint. On paper airless is about 40% efficient and air assist/ HVLP is about 65% efficient. But the HVLP will be better than AAA with smaller targets because you can cheat the fan pattern down a lot. If you have an airless and a compressed air source you can buy an air assist airless gun and connect it with your airless (just make sure its rated for the right psi of your airless). Heres a guide on using airless as an air assist airless.
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:04 AM   #32
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Glad the capspray is working well righting down your viscosities and air pressures used helps a lot. Typically HVLP loves paints in the 20 - 30 second range in a Zahn 2 cup.
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Old 02-19-2017, 10:11 AM   #33
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For larger projects with wood finishes the air assist airless has a lot of merit. It sprays like airless but you use lower pressures which saves paint. On paper airless is about 40% efficient and air assist/ HVLP is about 65% efficient. But the HVLP will be better than AAA with smaller targets because you can cheat the fan pattern down a lot. If you have an airless and a compressed air source you can buy an air assist airless gun and connect it with your airless (just make sure its rated for the right psi of your airless). Heres a guide on using airless as an air assist airless.


Super intriguing. Have you used this Frankensprayer before? I'm really interested in knowing how this worked out.


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Old 02-20-2017, 02:22 AM   #34
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Default Capspray 95

I finally got my hands on the wastebased Alkyd Urethane Enamel and just completed my first set of tests. Unthinned it didn't even make it out of the viscosity cup, after 8 minutes I called it a DNF. I thinned it 33% and it laid out absolutely gorgeous. Even the tests where I increased fluid volume, resulting in significant orange peel in the wet film, levelled out perfectly. I'm going to let the samples cure for 1 week and then test adhesion. All tests were done on primed wood and were checked for adequate wet film thickness according to manufacturer specs.



Also noteable:

After drying less than two hours I can't scratch it if with my fingernail. Will still conduct proper adhesion test in one week, but this is a good sign.

There was no impact on the colour as a result of the thinning.



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Old 02-20-2017, 11:49 PM   #35
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You'll like the HVLP for sure, especially looking at some of the projects your doing/posted. That's right up the HVLP's alley.

Something for you to research once you get the hang of things and depending on the type/number of projects you do is the remote cup system Titan makes.

When I bought our 115 capspray I went kinda all out and got the whole shebang. Got the remote pump, dual guns, etc. Set me back around $2,200 or so, can't remember the exact number, but I have yet to use the remote pump. Still sitting in the box, one day I'll get around to it.

Long story short: It's suppose to help you keep spraying longer for longer periods of time, because you eliminate the cup and pump directly from a material hose. You can also spray in more positions because you have the cup eliminated.

Anyway, just a possible tidbit for you to take a look into whenever you get a chance, might be worthwhile for what you do...who knows.
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Old 02-21-2017, 01:03 AM   #36
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You'll like the HVLP for sure, especially looking at some of the projects your doing/posted. That's right up the HVLP's alley.

Something for you to research once you get the hang of things and depending on the type/number of projects you do is the remote cup system Titan makes.

When I bought our 115 capspray I went kinda all out and got the whole shebang. Got the remote pump, dual guns, etc. Set me back around $2,200 or so, can't remember the exact number, but I have yet to use the remote pump. Still sitting in the box, one day I'll get around to it.

Long story short: It's suppose to help you keep spraying longer for longer periods of time, because you eliminate the cup and pump directly from a material hose. You can also spray in more positions because you have the cup eliminated.

Anyway, just a possible tidbit for you to take a look into whenever you get a chance, might be worthwhile for what you do...who knows.


I have seen this accessory and I do think it would be handy for sure. Probably will pick one up next time I have one of those tight areas to spray. I remember years ago when I started my business I just knew my tool costs were going to be minimal compared to other trades...


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Old 02-21-2017, 08:23 AM   #37
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I remember years ago when I started my business I just knew my tool costs were going to be minimal compared to other trades...
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I hear you there. I wish that was the case, but painters seem to have a good amount of tools and if you run a decent sizes business or have several employees it goes higher up because now you have to buy 3 or 4 of everything (rollers, cages, pans, etc.).

When it comes to machines the paint industry has tons, not many framers have to spend $1,500+ to get a machine to do work. Saws and compressors can be had for a couple hundred. Same with tile guys, etc., not very much high costs associated with the business. The only ones I can think of are insulators and maybe tapers (bazookas, etc.).

Can't wait to get the new Big Rig 933 with upgrades, that'll send me back a pretty penny. $9k+
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Old 02-21-2017, 10:47 AM   #38
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I hear you there. I wish that was the case, but painters seem to have a good amount of tools and if you run a decent sizes business or have several employees it goes higher up because now you have to buy 3 or 4 of everything (rollers, cages, pans, etc.).

When it comes to machines the paint industry has tons, not many framers have to spend $1,500+ to get a machine to do work. Saws and compressors can be had for a couple hundred. Same with tile guys, etc., not very much high costs associated with the business. The only ones I can think of are insulators and maybe tapers (bazookas, etc.).

Can't wait to get the new Big Rig 933 with upgrades, that'll send me back a pretty penny. $9k+


I will admit that we have the coolest stuff, so I'm not going to complain.


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Old 02-24-2017, 11:53 PM   #39
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Test boards passed adhesion test. I can feel comfortable using this system on cabinets, doors, trims, etc.

My test used SW Extreme Bond primer on scrap pine. After 24 hrs, light sand before applying two coats of SW Waterbased Alkyd Urethane Enamel, 4 mil WFT per coat, 24 hrs between coats.

Next I will be topcoating these boards with a few different waterborne clears, by General Finishes and Varathane.


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