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02-02-2010, 09:52 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
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aura semigloss vs. latex impervo
whatta think guys,is the Aura worth the extra money? Im talking white against white for high end trim work.
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02-02-2010, 10:04 PM
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#2
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Professional Contractor
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yes 
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02-02-2010, 10:12 PM
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#3
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I'm partial to the wb impervo. Would rather use Murallo ultra if my customers herd of it.....
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Schmidt & Co. Painting
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02-02-2010, 10:18 PM
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#4
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Okay,im there! The latex impervo is pretty good, by keeping a fan handy i was able to keep the little drips under control today.But hey,whats another 12-15 bucks,in these times we better do some fancy painting thanks Neps.
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02-03-2010, 05:38 PM
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#5
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hopeless perfectionist
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I recently brushed a bunch of interior doors with aura trim paint(satin) tinted a dark charcoal grey. The coverage was amazing and the doors pretty much looked like they were sprayed. I would not hesitate to use it again, but this claim of it being self-priming is absolute hogwash. When I used it on the inside of the front door (metal door with factory white finish) with only a scuff and no preprime, it failed easily, it didn't seem to have any adhesion at all.
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02-03-2010, 06:04 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Picky Painter
I recently brushed a bunch of interior doors with aura trim paint(satin) tinted a dark charcoal grey. The coverage was amazing and the doors pretty much looked like they were sprayed. I would not hesitate to use it again, but this claim of it being self-priming is absolute hogwash. When I used it on the inside of the front door (metal door with factory white finish) with only a scuff and no preprime, it failed easily, it didn't seem to have any adhesion at all.
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Thanks picky,yes the self prime thing has always been sketchy,like back in the day with SW Woodscapes.
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02-03-2010, 06:47 PM
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#7
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Just converted some old oil doors to Aura satin, used 123 as the adhesion coat. Works great. Only thing I would say is that it is probably a little less hard than WB imp.
You are talking about S Gloss- I thought only X aura was in S Gloss. Int just goes to satin, which is fairly comparable to oil imp.
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02-03-2010, 07:02 PM
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#8
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Member
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Sherwin has a new product this year. It is called Proclassic alkyd acrylic. Cleans up with water, under 50 voc and all of my guys that have tried it have loved it. I have layed it on at up to 12 mils with great results. Talk to your local rep for a free demo.
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02-03-2010, 07:27 PM
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#9
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I will definately check it out SW, with all this voc stuff impacting paint manufacturing painters have to search more than ever for the best prouduct.
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02-04-2010, 09:23 PM
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#10
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Rock On
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Rick the painter
...is the Aura worth the extra money?
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Yes
Though the 'perv satin has a barely detectable (for the discerning eye "a slightly detectable") better "look" than satin Aura (IMO, at least when brushed on), the Aura does have the 'perv beat in durability (color retention, anti-burnishing, etc.) and well worth the x-tra cha-ching
For spraying, you'll need two really light coats with a FF tip not to goob up in the corners
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Rick the painter
Im talking white against white for high end trim work.
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White-on-White Re-Paint where the extreme durability or ultra-low VOC of Aura is not desired or needed...eh...go with what you know
Off-hand, for me, this is a clear case of WB 'perv all the way
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"Always re-prime the pre-prime'
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02-04-2010, 09:31 PM
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#11
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Rock On
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Re: Aura Int. Semi
Mentioned above, Aura Int. Semi- seems to out-perform Regal Semi- in more ways than the satin does (same with the Aura eggshell and matte)
Please don't take my "take" on Aura satin as a review on all the Aura line
I's just the Int. satin that I'm referring to here
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"Always re-prime the pre-prime'
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02-04-2010, 09:53 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
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Thanks for you imput Slick.With the Aquaglo being what it is now i figured i would go with the wb impervo.That got me thinking why not go alllll the way with the Aura.
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02-06-2010, 03:15 PM
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#13
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The Lurker
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We stopped using WB Impervo awhile ago its junk IMO.. I use Muralo mostly but have starting to use Aura Satin more and more on trim.
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02-06-2010, 03:20 PM
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#14
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Residential Painter
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For brushed trimwork, I find my self using WB Impervo, Graham Ceramic or Aura. I like them all and cannot complain too much about any of them for trim brush work.
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02-06-2010, 04:14 PM
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#15
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DIATRIBAL WARRIOR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAK-Deco
We stopped using WB Impervo awhile ago its junk IMO.. I use Muralo mostly but have starting to use Aura Satin more and more on trim.
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The WB impervo can work ok for an acrylic, but definately has drawbacks. When it's all said and done it has an enamel quality that is acceptable for a waterbase, but obviously lacks durability of more toxic paints.
I personally do not use it very often though because I find it very exacting to work with.
The material keeps moving for a LONG time after you are done with the surface.
When brushing it can sag in places that most other paints will not if brushed with the same technique.
Which I find is always possible to alleviate by being more exacting with the millage of paint distribution, but that comes at a slight cost of slowing down a bit.
When spraying it has the finest line between not enough, and running that I have ever experienced.
Cranking the heat is a must.
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I have not tried the Aura on trim, but I have been open to the idea that it may work excellently seeing as how painting trim and painting walls require different qualities from paint.
I will probably try the Aura for trim one day.
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02-06-2010, 05:16 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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I am still using WB impervo. If you know how to work with it then you will love it. I use a syntox brush, and backroll with a velor wizznap unless I am spraying it always looks awesome, and it is really durable as well. In fact I had a customer complement how well a preschool bookshelf I did over 5 years ago has held up.
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02-07-2010, 01:15 PM
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#17
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The Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight_lines
I am still using WB impervo. If you know how to work with it then you will love it. I use a syntox brush, and backroll with a velor wizznap unless I am spraying it always looks awesome, and it is really durable as well. In fact I had a customer complement how well a preschool bookshelf I did over 5 years ago has held up.
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I would have no problems spraying it.. I have tried every type of brush and no way would a client of mine go for any rollered look.. I just feel there are better products in the same price range that are better..
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02-07-2010, 02:05 PM
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#18
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DIATRIBAL WARRIOR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight_lines
I am still using WB impervo. If you know how to work with it then you will love it. I use a syntox brush, and backroll with a velor wizznap
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You brush paint on then backroll it?
I haven't heard of this method/finish.
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02-07-2010, 03:55 PM
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#19
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Residential Painter
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I have heard of some doing this. I will use a dense foam roller to touch up damaged sprayed items in new construction, since it comes closest to looking like a sprayed finish and blends well. Brushing for touch-ups usually shows more. Now, using the same logic, apply paint with a brush and then using the foam roller on smooth, flat parts should looks closest to spraying as well I guess.
I was talking to a remodeller we are going to do some work for coming up, and he worked with painters who did the apply with brush and then roll and he said it looked like it was sprayed.
I have not tried it myself though.
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02-07-2010, 03:58 PM
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#20
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The Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanV
I have heard of some doing this. I will use a dense foam roller to touch up damaged sprayed items in new construction, since it comes closest to looking like a sprayed finish and blends well. Brushing for touch-ups usually shows more. Now, using the same logic, apply paint with a brush and then using the foam roller on smooth, flat parts should looks closest to spraying as well I guess.
I was talking to a remodeller we are going to do some work for coming up, and he worked with painters who did the apply with brush and then roll and he said it looked like it was sprayed.
I have not tried it myself though.
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I agree if its the right roller.. I can see not just using a foam roller cuz it wouldn't get it on heavy enough... tends to dry roll..
I still think putting it on heavy with a roller and laying it off with a good brush is the best way IMO
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