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Old 04-25-2011, 05:45 PM   #1
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Default dap 33

has anyone here ever used dap 33 window glazing
i have a couple of questions for you if you have used it
1 how long did you wait for it to dry before painting it ?
2 did you use a primer over it ?
3 oil or latex primer?

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Old 04-25-2011, 05:51 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellas70
has anyone here ever used dap 33 window glazing
i have a couple of questions for you if you have used it
1 how long did you wait for it to dry before painting it ?
2 did you use a primer over it ?
3 oil or latex primer?
For what?

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Old 04-25-2011, 05:53 PM   #3
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easy to work with takes a while to dry be sure to read the back and follow recomendations cause i know if you paint before dry you ll just be making more of an issue,any primer will work
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:14 PM   #4
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1. that stuff takes FOREVER to "dry". I've waited about a week before priming to allow it to skin over. Sometimes you'll even need to wipe it down before priming because it collects a lot of debris.

2. always

3. oil-based, always.

it's good to have some linseed oil with you to bring the glazing back to life if it has sat out too long. It's also a good idea to prime the mullions w/ the same oil-base, (or BIN since it dries fast), before you put the glazing in. I assume you are indeed glazing windows right??
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellas70 View Post
has anyone here ever used dap 33 window glazing
i have a couple of questions for you if you have used it
1 how long did you wait for it to dry before painting it ?
2 did you use a primer over it ?
3 oil or latex primer?
It's great stuff
1) One to 3 weeks...depends. Touch it and if it seems like it has a skin, it should be ok.
2) Yes, you need to prime.
3) Only oil primer...then acrylic finish.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:22 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by ParagonVA View Post
1. that stuff takes FOREVER to "dry". I've waited about a week before priming to allow it to skin over. Sometimes you'll even need to wipe it down before priming because it collects a lot of debris.

2. always

3. oil-based, always.

it's good to have some linseed oil with you to bring the glazing back to life if it has sat out too long. It's also a good idea to prime the mullions w/ the same oil-base, (or BIN since it dries fast), before you put the glazing in. I assume you are indeed glazing windows right??
Oops...I see that you answered...
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:39 PM   #7
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hey at least Harry and I are on the same page
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:24 PM   #8
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Use it all the time, and IMHO it takes all summer to "dry"......
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:26 PM   #9
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I think anyone who has used DAP "33" is on that page.

Few other tips. I like to "prime" the muntins with penetrol. The bare wood needs to be primed with something so it don't suck the oils out of the "33".

As stated, you can create the workability you like with linseed oil, or if you like Penetrol.

Different weather conditions determine different skin over times. You may prime (with oil) when skinned. Sometimes later the same day, but not often. I can't remember ever waiting a week. Maybe a day, unless it's 30 degrees.

The application of it has many variations, from snaking it to just applying with a putty knife, Cutting it seems to easiest for all with a 1 1/2" CLEAN, NEW semi-flex blade. Knife corners do need to be crisp to get nice corners of the glazing.

BTW, are back puttying the glass ?
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:21 PM   #10
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I think anyone who has used DAP "33" is on that page.

Few other tips. I like to "prime" the muntins with penetrol. The bare wood needs to be primed with something so it don't suck the oils out of the "33".

As stated, you can create the workability you like with linseed oil, or if you like Penetrol.

Different weather conditions determine different skin over times. You may prime (with oil) when skinned. Sometimes later the same day, but not often. I can't remember ever waiting a week. Maybe a day, unless it's 30 degrees.

The application of it has many variations, from snaking it to just applying with a putty knife, Cutting it seems to easiest for all with a 1 1/2" CLEAN, NEW semi-flex blade. Knife corners do need to be crisp to get nice corners of the glazing.

BTW, are back puttying the glass ?
I've never seen it being ok the same day...unh unh lol
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:38 PM   #11
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no back putting for me Arch unless a new piece of glass would be going in. (is that what you meant?)
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:23 PM   #12
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I have used my share of Dap 33 for glazing windows and as others have said, you need to prime bare wood (or linseed oil or apperently penetrol) and lest skin before priming again. I like to let the 33 sit for as long as possible (up to 2 weeks) before priming with coverstain.

Anymore though, FWIW I use Aquaglaze and acrylic primers for the odd pane repair or whole window. I have to assume the oil is the better product, but the Aqua seems adequate.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:17 PM   #13
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I am confused, I'ved used DAP 33 - and it seems I have to come back a couple of months after I finished the job before I can prime the window putty. That stuff takes forever to cure.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:29 PM   #14
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Stuff's too oily for me, even when mixing in powder to soak it up. It's like working with taffy. UGL makes a great glazing.
Oil prime the sash
10-14 days cure
oil prime glazing
Any latex will fail
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:29 PM   #15
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I dont have to glaze windows in post 78 homes.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:33 PM   #16
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I dont have to glaze windows in post 78 homes.
Are you post 78 too? It's a lonely crowd.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:35 PM   #17
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I dont have to glaze windows in post 78 homes.
Well La-Ti-Da.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:39 PM   #18
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Are you post 78 too? It's a lonely crowd.
It's the only way to fly.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:39 PM   #19
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no back putting for me Arch unless a new piece of glass would be going in. (is that what you meant?)

that's what I meant.

Although, I had been known to shove some 33 in between glass and muntins when doing interior work. Twas not as a regular course of action, but just sometimes on those old homes that were getting an A-1 job.

And to those who wait a week or more to prime, maybe my memory has completely gone, but I can't recall waiting days or weeks to prime new 33. On some homes that would mean making another trip back to the site just to finish the windows ?
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
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that's what I meant.

Although, I had been known to shove some 33 in between glass and muntins when doing interior work. Twas not as a regular course of action, but just sometimes on those old homes that were getting an A-1 job.

And to those who wait a week or more to prime, maybe my memory has completely gone, but I can't recall waiting days or weeks to prime new 33. On some homes that would mean making another trip back to the site just to finish the windows ?
Which is why a lot of guys don't wait. When I have a lot to do, the sash is where I start, that way the glazing is skimming as everything else is being brought along. By the time I get to the sash, it's usually skinned enough. I'm pretty anal about giving as much time as possible. As I said, I use UGL which is less oily and skims faster.

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