Painting laundry room tile - Paint Talk

Rcon · 02-08-2010, 12:09 PM

Hey,

Anyone have experience painting tile flooring? Just got an email about painting over some tiled floor in a laundry room, asking if it was possible. I haven`t spoken to my rep yet, but I thought i`d ask around here and see if any of you gentlemen have done this and know which products work and which to avoid. This isn`t really my area but a job is a job.

The tile is slate-like not smooth

Thanks for any info

deluxe · 02-08-2010, 02:37 PM

We've done it before. Scuff sand and use a good bonding primer, i like Xim and then a durable top coat of your choice.Hope this helps a little

Rcon · 02-08-2010, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deluxe

We've done it before. Scuff sand and use a good bonding primer, i like Xim and then a durable top coat of your choice.Hope this helps a little

Thanks. I contacted my rep and he suggested using bullseye to prime the tile then topcoating with a urethane porch and floor. The only problem with the urethane topcoat is that it`s pretty damn shiny (between gloss and semi gloss) and I just know she`s going to want a dark colour on that floor. I could go with an oil for less sheen but i`m not certain that would be durable enough for a floor that is subject to the occasional water abuse it`ll get in a laundry room.

SWGuy · 02-08-2010, 04:28 PM

I would recommend something better than bullseye. I would try XIM and then a floor coating. Painting tile is never ideal, but it usually holds up pretty well. It is all about setting expectations with the customer.

WisePainter · 02-08-2010, 04:36 PM

I have used the XIM on vertical surfaces, but am not convinced it is good for foot traffic areas.
I would like to know more about that.

SWGuy · 02-08-2010, 04:45 PM

No primer is recommended for floor tiles. It is not anything that I would make promises about. But, on the other hand, I have had it used, and it has help up pretty well. The key is hopefully only foot traffic will be on it, and not carts or hand trucks.

Wolfgang · 02-08-2010, 06:16 PM

Be sure to put in your contract a disclaimer about any chemical, soap, bleach, etc., spills. I know a guy who didnt and every 90 days he was recoating the floor over a period of about 18 months. Think he finally stopped answering the HO's calls....

**Workaholic** · 02-08-2010, 06:23 PM

What about etching the tiles prior to XIM, is it unnecessary because they are not slick tiles with a glaze finish?

Rcon · 02-08-2010, 10:42 PM

how about using a tinted poly? Poly works wonders on hardwood maybe it'd work on tile?

Like I said already, this is not something i've done before (i've done concrete floors, but i'd think tile is another animal). I've used tinted lacquers with much success on all kinds of substrates, why wouldn't a poly work on a tile floor.

Thoughts? (Maybe I should shoot wolverine a message, don't know if he sells his products in Kelowna tho - doubt it).

michfan · 02-08-2010, 11:21 PM

From what I've heard, Wolverine has some unbelievable info on some incredible floor coatings. I'd hit him up for some info.

johnpaint · 02-09-2010, 02:14 AM

I would not use XIM I don't think it would be hard enough. I would use something that dries or sets hard.Also the harder the surface your going over, the harder you need the finish to be for it to stand up.

straight_lines · 02-09-2010, 11:10 AM

I would be afraid to do any floor tiles and have to warranty the work. I have done many counter tops without an issue. Most of my work is on the coast, and sand being tracked would eat anything you put on a floor.

BrushJockey · 02-09-2010, 11:15 AM

BM's got a latex epoxy fortified floor coating that is more of an eggshell. I have used it many times on cement floors.
Easy to work with.

Rcon · 02-09-2010, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrushJockey

BM's got a latex epoxy fortified floor coating that is more of an eggshell. I have used it many times on cement floors.
Easy to work with.

Can you get it in any colour?

I'll call my BM rep when they open in about 15 mins

Rcon · 02-09-2010, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by straight_lines

I would be afraid to do any floor tiles and have to warranty the work. I have done many counter tops without an issue. Most of my work is on the coast, and sand being tracked would eat anything you put on a floor.

Do you use melamine for counter tops? I've never done them for the same reason i've never done tile floors - warranty concenrns. But these days you have to take whatever work you can get and sometimes that means learning new tricks.

UnDeRtOw00 · 02-11-2010, 07:45 PM

Done this many times. Tried many primers and topcoats on tile. Laundry rooms are a problem because the day after your finished, The customer calls you back because they scratched the floor moving the washer and dryer back in. Best thing i found was to scuff the tile the best you can with a heavy grit sandpaper, clean and use a good epoxy based product at your store of choice. 100 % solids are best, but your may consider waterborne for difference in smell/fumes.

Rcon · 02-11-2010, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UnDeRtOw00

Done this many times. Tried many primers and topcoats on tile. Laundry rooms are a problem because the day after your finished, The customer calls you back because they scratched the floor moving the washer and dryer back in. Best thing i found was to scuff the tile the best you can with a heavy grit sandpaper, clean and use a good epoxy based product at your store of choice. 100 % solids are best, but your may consider waterborne for difference in smell/fumes.

Thanks, i'm waiting to hear from wolverines guy from alpha garage - apparently they've got something for this. I tried my most trusted supplier in town and they flat out told me not to do this job ... which isn't something i'm going to take lightly. But i'll wait to see what alpha has to say before I 'yay or nay' it. Tile/flooring isn't my area of expertise so i'm going to do my homework before I even consider this job any further.

Paint Works · 02-11-2010, 11:17 PM

This is no problem, use Stix Primer, then topcoat with a floor paint or epoxy, which is what i use, I have just revisited a customer about a month ago to do some more work and took a peek at a floor I did for them in there laundry room over 1 year ago and it looked perfect.

straight_lines · 02-12-2010, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rcon

Do you use melamine for counter tops? I've never done them for the same reason i've never done tile floors - warranty concenrns. But these days you have to take whatever work you can get and sometimes that means learning new tricks.

No I only will do those if the HO is persistent and knows that I can't guarantee it will hold up. I try to stay away from melamine, and or formica. I was referring to tile counter tops, I do a lot of kitchen and bath remodels and being able to not replace the tile wainscot, or counter makes my bids a lot more competitive.

Amazing what a few coast of epoxy can do for old tile.

NCPaint1 · 02-13-2010, 11:12 AM

XIM is the way to go for sure for a primer. Is it going to be a solid color or will the grout lines be different? Like mentioned before, clean the floor, XIM prime, then any type of urethane fortified floor paint will work. Water on it is ok, so long as its not submerged. BM makes a good porch and floor that can be made in just about any color. PPG makes a nice one too in a satin finish, but no ultra deep colors other than the few pre mixed deep colors.