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Old 11-12-2015, 05:39 PM   #1
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Default Popcorn removal and a some high hiding primer

I just started on an a nice little empty raised ranch that will be a rental.

I'm in the process of scraping off the Popcorn from the ceilings. Since the paper is getting a little beat up, I was thinking of applying a coat of Gardz, then a coat of ceiling white so that I can see what needs to be repaired and bin any water spots. Then do the repairs, spot prime with the ceiling paint and a then a final coat.
Overkill or smart?

Also, all the walls are either fire engine red, Barney purple or mostly black murals of the Las Vegas skyline..

I like BM Fresh Start high-hiding primer, but since it's a rental and there is a lot of real estate to roll, I was wondering if their was a more cost effective primer that will also do a good job.

I just finished using some SW drywall primer and thought it was a little thin. Haven't used any of their high hiding primers.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:01 PM   #2
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Why is the paper getting beat up? You're either using too much water or not enough, try spraying it thrice crosshatching each time then scraping. Also make sure you dont have any imperfections on your blade, that can cause it to tear too. I use a 10inch purdy knife that's rounded at the edges to help prevent ripping the paper.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:17 PM   #3
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Why is the paper getting beat up? You're either using too much water or not enough, try spraying it thrice crosshatching each time then scraping. Also make sure you dont have any imperfections on your blade, that can cause it to tear too. I use a 10inch purdy knife that's rounded at the edges to help prevent ripping the paper.


This is one of the tools I now use because it was suggested, or shown in a picture (perhaps it was Gough) on a past thread. I had issues with tearing the paper myself until I switched to this knife.

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Old 11-12-2015, 06:20 PM   #4
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Why is the paper getting beat up? You're either using too much water or not enough, try spraying it thrice crosshatching each time then scraping. Also make sure you dont have any imperfections on your blade, that can cause it to tear too. I use a 10inch purdy knife that's rounded at the edges to help prevent ripping the paper.
I've been using about a 6" blade. I'll try bigger. The popcorn comes off great from the Sheetrock, but is a real PITA over the compound areas. It seems that if I soak the compound areas a few times and don't rush it it will give in.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:35 PM   #5
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I have never done a popcorn removal job. How do you guys address the pre 1980 homes with the potential asbestos hazard? Do you need certification similar to RRP?
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:53 PM   #6
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I have never done a popcorn removal job. How do you guys address the pre 1980 homes with the potential asbestos hazard? Do you need certification similar to RRP?
Not that I know of. I think that if you have the popcorn tested for asbestos and the test comes back positive, then by law you would have to take certain precautions on at least the disposal.

Now that you brought that up, I plan on wetting the stuff down real good, and maybe even wearing a mask.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:02 PM   #7
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I have never done a popcorn removal job. How do you guys address the pre 1980 homes with the potential asbestos hazard? Do you need certification similar to RRP?
If it's pre 1980 I won't look at it until it's been tested first. I've found (at least around here) that if it's built in the 50's it almost always has asbestos, 60's is about 50/50 shot, 70's I haven't seen one come back positive yet. If it comes back positive I won't touch it, I don't know what kinda certifications you need but I know I ain't got it.

Can ya tell I do a TON of popcorn removal. They popcorned every ceiling around here up until around 2007, that's a lot of ceilings that are in need of some scraping.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:05 PM   #8
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I've been using about a 6" blade. I'll try bigger. The popcorn comes off great from the Sheetrock, but is a real PITA over the compound areas. It seems that if I soak the compound areas a few times and don't rush it it will give in.
Yeah it sounds like you need it to sit a little longer. Adding a little drop of dawn to the water helps it from drying so fast on those compound areas too.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:00 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Rbriggs82 View Post
If it's pre 1980 I won't look at it until it's been tested first. I've found (at least around here) that if it's built in the 50's it almost always has asbestos, 60's is about 50/50 shot, 70's I haven't seen one come back positive yet. If it comes back positive I won't touch it, I don't know what kinda certifications you need but I know I ain't got it.

Can ya tell I do a TON of popcorn removal. They popcorned every ceiling around here up until around 2007, that's a lot of ceilings that are in need of some scraping.
The house was built in 1979.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:14 PM   #10
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The house was built in 1979.
Eh your prolly fine, I'd definitely wear a mask just in case tho.
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:57 PM   #11
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Cover max primer from SW.
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Old 11-13-2015, 12:17 AM   #12
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Scalding hot water pumped through your airless sprayer with a 517 tip. Saturate the he'll out of it. Then I follow behind with an 18 inch floor scraper. No moving ladders or any of that nonsense.

Let it soak. Your tearing paper joints because the mud hasn't been saturated enough. Just like rolling paint: don't use effort scraping. This may mean you have to rewet and hit it again.

As far as your walls: coverstain, s.w. preprite problock, etc...will go a long way. Quality primer = speed = money

And yes, we do this method even if they are keeping the flooring. Sometimes it's faster to make a mess and clean it up than it is to stay clean throughout the job.
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:15 PM   #13
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Old 11-16-2015, 11:35 PM   #14
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A few questions on Materials:

I need a High Hiding waterbase Primer to knock out some deep reds and blues for some walls that have been painted with what looks like a semi-gloss latex. Also for some dirty ceilings that may have a few light water spots.

Some of my options:
Fresh Start - too pricey for this job being that runs me between 35 and 40 bucks a gallon.
BM Sure seal - never used it but it's priced right at around 24.

Sherwin Williams Pro Block for around 24. Never used it.

Or there is the Zinsser 123 available at the big box store. Haven't used it in years.

And then their is the ceiling paint:

I like Muresco but 28 seems high to me, especially for this job.
UltaSpec 500 flat for around 24. Never used it.

Sherwin Williams guy wants me to use Eminence for the ceilings. It's on sale for around 21. Never used it.

And finally for the walls:

Ultra Spec or Promar 200. UltraSpec is only a couple dollars more/gal. I've use SuperHide in the past and that was pretty good. Don't know if the UltraSpec and the SuperHide are the same.
There is also the ProMar 400 which I have never used. All the walls will be an off white.

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Hopefully I didn't cross the line in talking price. I am just trying to do an apples to apples comparison with some of the products available to me.

Last edited by Lakesidex; 11-16-2015 at 11:39 PM..
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:15 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lakesidex View Post
A few questions on Materials:

I need a High Hiding waterbase Primer to knock out some deep reds and blues for some walls that have been painted with what looks like a semi-gloss latex. Also for some dirty ceilings that may have a few light water spots.

Some of my options:
Fresh Start - too pricey for this job being that runs me between 35 and 40 bucks a gallon.
BM Sure seal - never used it but it's priced right at around 24.

Sherwin Williams Pro Block for around 24. Never used it.

Or there is the Zinsser 123 available at the big box store. Haven't used it in years.

And then their is the ceiling paint:

I like Muresco but 28 seems high to me, especially for this job.
UltaSpec 500 flat for around 24. Never used it.

Sherwin Williams guy wants me to use Eminence for the ceilings. It's on sale for around 21. Never used it.

And finally for the walls:

Ultra Spec or Promar 200. UltraSpec is only a couple dollars more/gal. I've use SuperHide in the past and that was pretty good. Don't know if the UltraSpec and the SuperHide are the same.
There is also the ProMar 400 which I have never used. All the walls will be an off white.

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Hopefully I didn't cross the line in talking price. I am just trying to do an apples to apples comparison with some of the products available to me.
Ok so primer i like Quali-kote Hi Hide. If thats to much money than Cover Max is also fine. Eminence on ceilings for that price is a no brainer, use it. As far as finish for the walls i recommend Quali-kote Low Sheen. Its between a flat and an Eggshell. Its also pretty durable and will help hide any imperfections. If you use these products the job will look fantastic IMO

Here is link to product for walls
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/docu.../035777699621/

Primer
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/docu.../035777689301/
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:26 AM   #16
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I'd bomb can the water spots , hit it with problock or 123, lids in eminence and walls in 200. 400 is contractor grade crap imo. Good on lids for some things cuz it's dead flat , crappy coverage though...
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Old 11-17-2015, 03:46 AM   #17
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I'd bomb can the water spots , hit it with problock or 123, lids in eminence and walls in 200. 400 is contractor grade crap imo. Good on lids for some things cuz it's dead flat , crappy coverage though...
and that's being nice
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Old 11-17-2015, 03:47 AM   #18
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If you have a PPG store close by try their Seal Grip primer, works great
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:14 PM   #19
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So I plan on going with Eminence for the ceilings. First time with a new product is kinda fun. Any caveats with rolling Eminence? - Especially on big ceilings.

Also, I have a couple of beat up ceilings where I removed some stubborn popcorn. The plan is to roll a coat of Gardz, then roll a coat of cover Stain or a waterbase primer to take care of any water marks. Do some repairs. Then 2 coats of ceiling paint.

Any problems rolling Cover Stain right over the Gardz. I like the way the gardz seals up all the crap, but I worry that it may be too flexible to put the CS right on top of.

Last edited by Lakesidex; 11-17-2015 at 07:28 PM..
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:21 PM   #20
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If you have a PPG store close by try their Seal Grip primer, works great
I second that. Love Seal Grip and PPG ceiling paint.
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