Stripping Stained Front Door - Paint Talk

PinnacleResidential · 08-22-2008, 03:35 PM

I have a very loyal client that would like me to re-stain his front door. The urethane and stain underneath are in pretty bad shape and starting to fade away and peel in numerous spots. Obviously, the door will have to be stripped before re-staining.

Any finish strippers you guys particularly like? The last time I did a job like this was on some wooden garage doors (haha, I know) and I tried Peel Away #7. I hated it.

Dave Mac · 08-22-2008, 05:05 PM

I like the paste stuff, i get it at lowes, sorry forgot the name, just allow all day to just strip one side door only, a good orbatal sander is a huge help as well, probaly raccomen a new kick plate for it as well

PinnacleResidential · 08-22-2008, 05:38 PM

I plan on using an orbital where I can, however, This door is a french style so getting around all the window panes is going to be impossible with a ro sander. I plan on stripping, hand sanding, then getting all the areas I can with an orbital.

MAK-Deco · 08-22-2008, 08:01 PM

Just make sure you give them an idea of the price... I have a lot of people freak when they see the price... Time makes them look nice...

DeanV · 08-22-2008, 10:27 PM

I have one that I am going to be working on also, I front door with double sidelights. The lower portion of part of the door system sanded right down to bare wood, but the rest of the finish is intact and does not sand off. I am planning on using Heavy Duty (a methyl chloride stripper), since it seems to be the only one that works quick enough for stuff like that. I wanted to try one of the "green" strippers, but the long wait time really does not seem like a good idea when working on a small area like that.

**slickshift** · 08-22-2008, 11:05 PM

As I have found most chemical strippers ineffectual, or too specific (one that works on your old table won't work on your door), and time consuming and messy, not to mention the leftover toxic sludge I now have responsibility of...not to mention they nearly always still require massive sanding.... the last few years I have found it much, much, more (cost/time) effective to sub it out to a strip shop
Just drop it off, pick it up, and then do that voodoo that I do so well

The 'green' strippers seem to be the worst

aaron61 · 08-22-2008, 11:21 PM

we do anywhere from 1 -5 sets a week/ 1 day job, chemical strip twice,clean,sand,clean, hang,stain,urethane,lunch, sand,urethane, check
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aaron61 · 08-22-2008, 11:26 PM

I think the stripper we use is Dads 30 minute from HD. I've tried all of them. This seems the most versatile

DeanV · 08-22-2008, 11:40 PM

What urethane are you using that can go over stain and be two coated all in one day? For a new door, I like to do at least three coats of an oil finish or 4 coats of an waterborne acrylic-urethane finish if it is taken all the way down to raw wood. Even waterbornes do not sand well the first day for me. Are you using a catalyzed or 2 component urethane?

aaron61 · 08-22-2008, 11:55 PM

2 cts Minwax Spar on refinish. We use fans between coats to speed up the drying/3cts on new doors. Usually 2cts the first day. Then come back sand and finish. A new door is a different animal then a refinish. I also would not recomend a waterborne on exterior. I love the waterbornes for interior. Dries in about 30 for multiple coats.

Joewho · 08-23-2008, 05:27 AM

Staining and finishing in the same day is possible if the stain and finish are both oil based or if both are water based.

With oil stain, the concern is that the finish will pull the stain off or push it around if you aren't careful.

With water stain, you have to be good at it because it dries too fast to to be forgiving.