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Old 07-17-2010, 11:53 AM   #41
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:20 PM   #42
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I see some talk about Sherwin Williams Woodscapes mentioned on this topic. Just be sure you guys are not applying it on horizontal surfaces. Woodscapes is for "most vertical" surfaces. I consider the bottom edge of a cedar board to be horizontal, this is the area of the lap board that wicks water the most. Being a product for "most vertical" surfaces, I cant think of an application I could ever use it, especially on cedar.
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:26 PM   #43
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uhhh...


Vertical as in siding, right?

And horizontal as in decking, right?
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:54 PM   #44
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Those pics speak for them self.
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:23 AM   #45
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oops, didn't see the pics until now.

But I don't think the bottom edge of the cedar siding is a "horizontal surface", but rather a part of the vertical surface. I mean, c'mon.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:47 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight_lines View Post
Those pics speak for them self.
Yeah, doesnt look too bad. From the pics, the wood looked pretty beat up before the solid even went on, which would be my guess as to why they chose a solid to begin with. For some reason I like a heavier coating if someone wants a solid. Sikkens Solid DEK after 2 coats has a nice film build. It sorta fills in the rough grains of the wood giving a pretty uniform look.
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Old 07-21-2010, 04:59 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by NCPaint1 View Post
Yeah, doesnt look too bad. From the pics, the wood looked pretty beat up before the solid even went on, which would be my guess as to why they chose a solid to begin with. For some reason I like a heavier coating if someone wants a solid. Sikkens Solid DEK after 2 coats has a nice film build. It sorta fills in the rough grains of the wood giving a pretty uniform look.
Yea the decks were horrible. In fact the cedar ship lap was just as bad. The lap was an addition I framed in so it was brand new. I used damn near a case of caulk on that little house.

I was referring to the siding more so than the decking. I hate putting any solids on decks no matter the product. But for the beach it has held up very well, and they could get another five years out of it before needing to repaint the siding.
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:29 AM   #48
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A shelac based primer will never let go, not matter the surface.
And it holds back all wood stains and water stains.
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:54 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight_lines View Post
Yea the decks were horrible. In fact the cedar ship lap was just as bad. The lap was an addition I framed in so it was brand new. I used damn near a case of caulk on that little house.

I was referring to the siding more so than the decking. I hate putting any solids on decks no matter the product. But for the beach it has held up very well, and they could get another five years out of it before needing to repaint the siding.
what type of paint did you use on the cedar lap siding???
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Old 05-10-2011, 07:17 PM   #50
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SW woodscapes.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:04 PM   #51
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The concern I have with any alkyd based primer is that the binder will get harder with age, this will mean that one day in the future the coating will need to be removed completely I believe. Am I correct?

The problem with latex paints peeling back could be the type of latex product used and the viscosity of the first coat. A modified 100% acrylic has glycol oils that penetrate the timber, the coating itself should follow through on the glycol penetrating the timber with the oil before the coating dries and encapsulates the outer fibres of the timber.

Another concern I have over alkyd undercoats is that though the undercoat will penetrate the substrate the acrylic won't because the alkyd will prevent it, making the glycol oils in the acrylic pointless. This means that the coating that is locked into the fibre is a product that is not only very weak against of harsh changes in temperature but also mould tends to love it.

The oils in alkyd undercoats feed mould where the synthetic oils used in acrylic don't.

Just my thoughts, I may not be aware of the type of oil based primer you use in the States though. Perhaps I am missing something.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:10 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottclarkpainting
A shelac based primer will never let go, not matter the surface.
And it holds back all wood stains and water stains.
Never use shellac except for spot priming exterior knots. Vapor barrier on outside is a bad idea.
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:29 PM   #53
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Default "Redwood Siding?"

I have a house built in 1941 and I have been told it probably has redwood siding. There are many layers where stuff was scraped and repainted, but you can see the layers where the old paint stuck.
I am thinking about the paintshaver to totally remove the visible layers, but this thread has bot me wondering what to apply:

1) Oil prime and Duration Satin?

2) Woodscapes?

Does redwood have the same characteristics as cedar? I don't want to be a paint idiot either!!

Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:48 PM   #54
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thru time cedar builds a film on it self taht looks like a haze if you really look at it.Cabot and other products make a solution that cleans the cedar and reopens the pours after a good scrub and power wash and don t forget to sand before you stain.But can never go wrong with using oil primer.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:46 PM   #55
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Having read this entire thread, I have some questions and was hoping you would help resolve all the contradicting ones that I have heard.

Cedar Siding, serious paint failure, due to mill glaze as the builder used smooth side out!!!! Many scrapings and 3 paint jobs! .... Decided to use Paint Shaver Pro .... Picture attached, best decision we made....

1) was advised to sand with 50 grit paper so that cedar is rough and takes paint well... Someone else said 80 grit .... Any thoughts or opinions?

2) Cedar needs to breath???? Is that a NO TO Benjamin Moore Alkyd Primer because it's oil based? I was told use The Benjamin Moore Alkyd Primer with two coats of Solid Ben M Stain .... That would be like a Paint???? Is there any other stain that comes in colors similar to the gray color on the house? Thats better than a solid stain?

3) Caulking, in this post someone mentioned that caulking the house tightly would cause a tight seal and that would not allow the house to breath? so the paint would peel off? So what caulking should one use? and how does one caulk where it's not tight?

4) Whats the best way to get the old caulking and paint out of the corners? Paint shaver did such a great job, now what about the corners? Any suggestion on a grinder? or sander that reaches corners?

Thanks for you help, normally do interiors, this is our first exterior .....
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:00 AM   #56
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......
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Old 06-29-2011, 03:54 AM   #57
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I just finished a nightmare cedar job...what worked best for me was EXTENSIVE scraping, then sunproof brand oil, then 2 coats latex.
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:33 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerheart14 View Post
THANK YOU!!!! You don't know how much I argue this point with painters in my area!!! The ONLY type of primer that can hold back tannin acid bleed-through is a good quality exterior oil based primer (like cabot's problem solver). SO MANY GUYS are just so lazy to use an oil base because (bo-hu!!!) the cleanup. get some damn paint thinner for god's sake!!!! then let dry full 24-48 hours, then put a good quality 100% low lustre acrylic finish on (two-coats) stuff will last for years and years. Bu there's always gonna be people who say "Oh, water base primers can block tannins out, trust me." Yeah right.
Can't blame you for thinking water based primers can't block tannins, because all the current formulations on the market can't. Wait 2 months then try my new Prime 'N Hide waterborne primer. Blocks out the most severe tannins with one application.

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