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Old 03-03-2016, 12:23 PM   #21
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Working with venitian plaster-img_20160303_110955789.jpg

These pics are from a room in my house,done 15 yrs. ago. I used Spatula Stuhhi and it was waxed with Cera Del Vecchio from Triarch. Cera Del Vecchio is awesome,BTW.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:26 PM   #22
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Working with venitian plaster-img_20160303_111238932.jpg

Another area. No pattern. Random.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:27 PM   #23
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Is this "Venetian plaster" being polished with blued, tempered polishing trowels by chance?
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fauxlynn View Post
Attachment 72241

These pics are from a room in my house,done 15 yrs. ago. I used Spatula Stuhhi and it was waxed with Cera Del Vecchio from Triarch. Cera Del Vecchio is awesome,BTW.
That looks just like real Venetian plaster I must say! Lol. Awesome.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PACman View Post
Is this "Venetian plaster" being polished with blued, tempered polishing trowels by chance?

I have no idea what that is. The trowel in the picture is start to finish for me. And yes, I sandpaper the rust off before I use it.


Quote:
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That looks just like real Venetian plaster I must say! Lol. Awesome.
It is the real deal. Synthetic VP is not a product I use.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:39 PM   #26
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Quote:
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I have no idea what that is. The trowel in the picture is start to finish for me. And yes, i sandpaper the rust off before I use it.
It's the old school way they used to polish venetian plaster. Takes forever and a strong arm.



It is the real deal. Synthetic VP is not a product I use.
yeah, I've seen some pretty crappy "venetian plaster" products out there.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:47 PM   #27
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Additonal for OP,

You need to check the instructions for your product, but in general:

Use the entire edge of the trowel. When you scoop out product to put on the trowel,it should go all the way. I will post a pic.

First coat, 100% coverage, applied at 15-30 degree angle

Second coat, can be less than 100% coverage,(85%and up), applied at 30-60 degree angle.

Final coat, 100% coverage,applied at under 30% angle.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:01 PM   #28
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I guess I'm just curious as to whether the OP is using the Behr/Valspar type pf "venetian plaster" or a real venetian plaster like fauxlynn uses. Can i get some clarification on this? Because I don't think if you are using a true venetian plaster you could even buy the material for $700. Al least the brands I have looked at.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:05 PM   #29
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Working with venitian plaster-img_20160303_115052332.jpg
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:13 PM   #30
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OP said in first post it is Meodo or something. It has to be Meoded,I think he spelled it wrong. Meoded is good stuff.

Anyway, here is a bucket of stuff from Atova. There are only two passes,burnished like a dream.Almost didn't need the wax. I wish I could post the sample,but the designer has it.
Working with venitian plaster-img_20160303_115543727.jpg

So,just saying,even if it's the real thing,the application and burnishing can differ.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:38 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fauxlynn View Post
OP said in first post it is Meodo or something. It has to be Meoded,I think he spelled it wrong. Meoded is good stuff.

Anyway, here is a bucket of stuff from Atova. There are only two passes,burnished like a dream.Almost didn't need the wax. I wish I could post the sample,but the designer has it.
Attachment 72265

So,just saying,even if it's the real thing,the application and burnishing can differ.
I didn't see that. Thought it said rodeo.
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:21 PM   #32
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Some clarification on my part. I usually think of venetian plaster as a highly polished finish that can closely replicate marble. This is what I have always been exposed to as "venetian plaster". But recently several different techniques have started being called venetian plaster. This is technically and historically not correct, as the only one of these techniques that originated in Venice is called marmorino, which is the most highly polished of these types. This is what I have always been told was venetian plaster.

The highly polished technique gives a very hard and water proof finish, which is what was needed in a city that flooded frequently (Venice). The other techniques historically produced a finish that was not nearly as strong or waterproof, therefore they were not typically used in Venice proper. But i guess for the purpose of not having to market and explain the different techniques to consumers, they have all been lumped under the most popular and recognizable name by the manufacturers. Kind of like how the term enamel is used differently today then when I was a kid.
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:24 PM   #33
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I agree, over time it has all been basically lumped together as 'Venetian plaster'. Some people lump it all together as 'Italian plaster'.

If it is waterproof, I've never heard that. I would never tell a client that, might come back to haunt me.

The only plaster that I know is waterproof is what is the Moroccan plaster known as Tadelakt, actually used in baths and showers.


Anyway,Mr. Vanilla, I hope that all makes sense.
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:49 PM   #34
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I want to thank everyone for great advice and help you all have provided. I managed to get a few pictures today and hope to get some critique. Here they are:















@fauxlynn that wall looks amazing, and thanks for the pics of the spatula. Really helpful too. I'm finally getting a real one tomorrow (convinced my friend today and he gave me the funds). I think you were completely right and the sharpening along with straight corners gave me more problems.

I also took your advice today as to the amount of plaster I take out. Before I had a plastic sheet and I took a few scoops out of the bucket and put it on the sheet. Today I just scooped directly from the bucket unto the helping spatula, then resealed the bucket. So I basically had to reopen the bucket (not that easy) every 10 mintues or so to get a fresh scoop.

Also you asked if I'm mixing as I go. The color is premixed, so I just mix the top of the bucket by hand a little and then scoop it out.

After applying what you advised last night, I think the overall result is a little better, that is the new fresh plaster makes a huge difference, it doesn't rip or smudge as easily. However I DID burnish right after applying. I didn't burnish it completely, what I did today was basically apply a square foot section, then right away and did one light pass with the trowel, it just gave it a satin sheen. Then wait till it starts to fade a little and then apply more pressure, then wait a few more mintues and apply the most pressure. So over this on and off burnishings I was able to make them pop. However the drag lines are still somewhat visible. You're saying that I should leave them be until it starts to dry? Don't even do one pass as soon as I lay it?

I will try to do that tomorrow and post some pictures of the results. Also I've been putting on the plaster just on the top part of the trowel, I will try the entire edge.

Also what sort of motion should I do if I cover the entire edge?

The way I was doing it before and all the angles and everything I got from this video
. I was basically trying to do everything he's doing. That's why I was putting it on a small part of the spatula and doing 45deg for the third coat. Do you think it's a good video to follow?

Thank you again for walking me through this, your advice has been really really helpful.

@PACman I didn't have to buy the plaster (thankfully) it was provided to me, $700 was just a quote my friend gave me for the application. There's a picture of the plaster I'm using above.
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:06 PM   #35
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A few more pics:

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Old 03-04-2016, 12:26 AM   #36
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For some reason, I cannot see the pics. What I could see on my cell phone looks fine, blurry pics though.

Okay, I didn't pay attention to that part of the video before. I pointed out that video in response to your question about the 'pattern'. If it works for you to put it all up top, go ahead. In the video, he sort of gets it on the wall all at once and pans it out. The way I was taught it gets all up there in a larger, controlled swath.The only thing about the way he puts it on is that I would think it would tend to smear toward the center of the trowel. I try to keep it close to the edge, because that is the only part of my trowel touching the wall. Tomatoes, tomaaaahtoes.

Geez,Louise, the color is white?! That is a difficult color in the sense that there is little that can be done that I know of to get rid of what I call scuff marks. Are there sort of like greyish marks from the metal trowel? Any white VP I have ever seen always has those marks. If your friend says it looks fine, go with it.

As far as the bucket..... Put a piece of plastic in the bucket, covering the plaster. I usually scrape down the sides, tamp it all down as flat as reasonably as I can, put the plastic on top of the product and leave the lid loose. It'll be fine.

I cannot address the burnishing issue specifically. As I have said a few times, call the manufacturer or consult the instructions for that particular product. I can't tell what that bucket says, a bit blurry.

I do think it is a good video, but I also said that some of it may not apply to your situation. I still think 45 degrees is too steep. The only way I can think to describe it is, you never want to feel like you are scraping it off the wall. Spread it on like soft butter on toast.

The edge- I usually just continue the random pattern. Fill in where necessary with smaller strokes. Inside corners are a bitch, just like regular drywall work. Just start from the other end, by the time you get to the corner,it will be 'dry' enough.

That blue wall I did years ago, the three layers were applied with progressively increased amount of pressure. Hard, hard work. That stuff in the bucket in the pic, two coats, not nearly the same pressure, better shine.

You just need to do what works. .......depending on the recommendations for that product.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:34 AM   #37
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Okay, the pics finally came up.

They are blurry, but it looks pretty good from a blurry pic,haha.

The shine looks great. Still can't tell what the bucket says.

Oh, the bucket....all that stuff on the sides has the potential of drying and falling into the good stuff. Scrape it down if it is still wet and workable or get it out of that bucket if it is all dried up stuff on the sides. Same goes for the lid I see in the background.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:06 AM   #38
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@fauxlynn

So you think it looks ok? By the way the lines I was referring to are visible most in the first picture, they look like stretch marks. Maybe a little hard to tell from the pictures. I'll try to take some better ones tomorrow and do some close ups of what I think are bad areas.

The color on the bucket says it's "feather gray". The walls have a slight bluish tint with mostly gray, so it's not really all white.

About the bucket, I scraped all the stuff from the edge as soon as I opened it, as I noticed that's the only part that freezes up, I never have the lid open, just opened it for the pic to show the color, so the sides never really harden. I will try to use a piece of plastic bag like you said, that should speed it up significantly.

The exact wording on the bucket is "Stucco Lumundo Lime Based Gloss Finish". I will try to get a hold of Meoded tomorrow regarding burnishing.

Regarding the angle on the last coat, you said it should feel like spreading butter. So I shouldn't worry about having it very thin? That was the impression I got from the video, he says it should dry in seconds. At 45 deg it does dry very fast, I'd say in 30 seconds it's already fading to light gray.

Also maybe you know what the guy in the video was referring to when he said "joints". He said something along the lines of "..in case of joints, you have to space application irregularly, starting from the joint in the opposite direction". Does that mean I have to let one portion dry first and start the next "joint" next to it but go in opposite direction, like if I did the first joint going left, I should start the next joint and swipe right?

Thanks again for your help. I will make sure to get some better shots tomorrow.
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:55 AM   #39
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"true" burnished venetian plaster is extremely water proof and can be used in shower surrounds. It was common in Venice to do venetian plaster partway up the walls of homes that were in areas prone to seasonal flooding. And that was most of the city for hundreds of years. Other then using natural stone or ceramic tile, which were used in the rich peoples homes, it was the best way to get a waterproof wall.
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:51 AM   #40
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Yes,the third coat should be thinner than the previous coats. I don't put a ton of butter on my bread....

Joints- he is referring to stopping/ starting points. If you stop in the middle of a wall, just make sure it is an irregular line, not a straight line. Then when you resume, make that first pass go back into the stop line. So,if you were working left to right and stopped, work that first pass right to left when you start again. You don't want basically an extra layer on any stopping points, it might dull that part of the wall.

If it were me, on the third,final pass, I would try to do the whole wall if possible.
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