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Old 08-17-2008, 02:06 PM   #21
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Now I get it. Just the wrong type of new home painting. We haven't done new construction in years, because of the lack of respect and more importantly lack of pay that the market offers. (although I recently was offered this type of work from somebody who builds 6-10 houses a year.)
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Old 08-17-2008, 02:15 PM   #22
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[quote=Thomas Painting;36348]
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Originally Posted by vermontpainter View Post

It also makes you sand twice ... plus with 2 coats of finish..... nail holes shouldn't flash.
ideally would you not prime, fill, sand prime, 2 finish?
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Old 08-17-2008, 02:57 PM   #23
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[quote=tsunamicontract;36371]
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Originally Posted by Thomas Painting View Post

ideally would you not prime, fill, sand prime, 2 finish?

No, on our new construction stuff we fill, sand, prime, sand, 1st coat, sand, second coat.
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Old 08-17-2008, 03:07 PM   #24
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Hmm, I would have thought you would have pre primed then the rest of your steps. Does the pre prime just add to much to the price tag? Or just not benefit the application enough to justify it?
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Old 08-17-2008, 03:22 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by tsunamicontract View Post
Hmm, I would have thought you would have pre primed then the rest of your steps. Does the pre prime just add to much to the price tag? Or just not benefit the application enough to justify it?
With the elaborate trim schemes we deal with, the carpenters do alot of installation when they install, so we would lose primer in the joints and all around if we preprimed...we would end up repriming. So it goes up raw, then we fill (twice), prime, etc. etc.

Keep in mind we work in an unusually high quality expectation environment. If you price development houses and try to do trim this way it will not work. They will love your quality, hate the amount of time it takes you, and you will lose money. Everyone should do whats appropriate for the situation.
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Old 08-17-2008, 04:37 PM   #26
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If price is the biggest factor in your "how to finish" equation then you can certainly omit and rearrange the finishing steps. For example, we just finished a student housing project near Michigan State. 4 1200sq foot units we had to be in and out of in 5 days.

Prime and first coat your walls and ceilings.
Trim out units.
Fill holes and spot prime everything that's raw. In this case 1 can of Pro-Block per unit since the only thing raw was the tops of doors.
First finish coat on trim
Sand / Check for imperfections
Finish coat on trim
Finish walls

This is very fast and very cheap method of finishing and I hope nobody I know ever has to live there, but it may be the process you're looking for.

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Old 08-17-2008, 04:42 PM   #27
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Yup. They eat their own
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Old 08-17-2008, 04:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vermontpainter View Post
It also makes you sand twice ... plus with 2 coats of finish..... nail holes shouldn't flash.

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Originally Posted by Thomas Painting View Post

Sometimes they do. Particularly with deep base Satin Impervo oil, which we do alot of. The filler has a different rate of absorption than the surrounding substrate, so we prefer sealing. Whatever works....
This is exactly how it should be done imo. Especially if you're filling larger holes with durabond/mud then can tend to flash. Any patch/hole we fix will generally get a nice coat of primer before finish. If we see a spot that needs fixing during the last coat of semi, we carry a can of pro-block around to spot it.

The extra step of sanding 'twice' really doesnt take that long. If you did a good job sanding the primer, the sanding stage between the coats of finish is more of a quick scuff than an actual sand.

Last edited by Mantis; 08-17-2008 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 08-17-2008, 04:44 PM   #29
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[quote=Mantis;36391The extra step of sanding 'twice' really doesnt take that long. If you did a good job sanding the primer, the sanding stage between the coats of finish is more of a quick scuff than an actual sand.[/quote]

Thats right. The in between coat sanding is a pretty quick wipe to smooth the raised grain. Thats nothing compared to the scrubbing we do on nail hole filling.
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:04 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vermontpainter View Post
With the elaborate trim schemes we deal with, the carpenters do alot of installation when they install, so we would lose primer in the joints and all around if we preprimed...we would end up repriming. So it goes up raw, then we fill (twice), prime, etc. etc.

Keep in mind we work in an unusually high quality expectation environment. If you price development houses and try to do trim this way it will not work. They will love your quality, hate the amount of time it takes you, and you will lose money. Everyone should do whats appropriate for the situation.
For some reason it did not cross my mind that even if you primed that pile of wood that was to be installed, after its all cut, you would have to do it again. Its important for everyone to keep in mind that things need to be looked at situationally as opposed to blanket concepts that work in all situations no matter what.

Scott, do you hand sand or random orbital? Hook up to a vacuum to control dust at all?
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:05 PM   #31
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For some reason it did not cross my mind that even if you primed that pile of wood that was to be installed, after its all cut, you would have to do it again. Its important for everyone to keep in mind that things need to be looked at situationally as opposed to blanket concepts that work in all situations no matter what.

Scott, do you hand sand or random orbital? Hook up to a vacuum to control dust at all?
99% by hand.
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:13 PM   #32
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(let me preface this with I have never done new construction, a couple remodels which is similar but usually inhabited)
Why the sand after spraying the primer? Assuming you backroll, which realistically you should, should everything not already be pretty even and primer obviously does not need extra "tooth" for the paint to hold?
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:15 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsunamicontract View Post
(let me preface this with I have never done new construction, a couple remodels which is similar but usually inhabited)
Why the sand after spraying the primer? Assuming you backroll, which realistically you should, should everything not already be pretty even and primer obviously does not need extra "tooth" for the paint to hold?

We dont spray primer. Even if we did, there would be enough raised grain to necessitate sanding to get a smooth finish. Its a fine sand to smooth it, not to give it tooth. Its got too much tooth to begin with.
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:25 PM   #34
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Sorry for the confusing Scott, I meant on drywall. Wood I understand.
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:26 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Sorry for the confusing Scott, I meant on drywall. Wood I understand.
That we do spray, and as a matter of course, pole sand every time to smooth out the dust you find lurking around.
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:36 PM   #36
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That was my hunch. Is this for level 5 DW finishes only? I assume if someone were having texture sprayed on this would be pointless? Not a lot of non-textured walls here. Are they more popular out east or in higher end homes? I have one guy who is big on flat walls with flat paint, though. Just looked at a really custom relatively new (8 years) prairie/ranch style home with real, hand applied plaster. That was neat. But other than that, round these parts the DW do the texturing and it gets painted after that.
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Old 08-17-2008, 05:51 PM   #37
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Scott, are you saying you do not spray primer on wood?
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:57 PM   #38
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Scott, are you saying you do not spray primer on wood?
Correct
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Old 08-17-2008, 07:24 PM   #39
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Maybe I missed something in this thread. Why do you not spray primer on wood?
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Old 08-17-2008, 07:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Maybe I missed something in this thread. Why do you not spray primer on wood?
Its a function of the builder clientele that we work for. The builders, and their clients - the homeowners, prefer the art of the brush. If we were doing development work we could do that kind of production work, but in our particular market, its not what they are interested in. They want craftsmanship, and thats what we do.

Disclaimer: I know that there are guys here (NEPS) that can create very similar craftsmanship by spraying trim, and that it is much more efficient and cost effective. This is in no way meant to dis the art of spraying. We just give the people what they want.
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