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Old 09-08-2016, 08:22 AM   #1
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Unhappy SW ProClassic Kitchen Cabinets - nightmare.

Cabinets were BIN primed + 3 coats of ProClassic + Satin Polycrylic. HO Wanted a durable finish, w/kids and cleaning. Now that the doors are in place, the cabinet not only have a different sheen, appearing more semigloss...but even appear off-white / yellowing! anyone have this happen? Sprayed the doors, rolled the frames...like maybe it didn't coat the same mil ? First I thought it was just lighting....but its plain as day now. Whats the next step...my head is spinning...
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:19 AM   #2
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the clear is your problem
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:03 AM   #3
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ditto on the clear, you can't expect a "clear" to just not appear to be there. Take the poly and clear the rest of the cabinets.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:01 PM   #4
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Yeah, the different textures created by spraying the doors/rolling the frames will cause a difference in sheen. It's unavoidable. As far as the yellowing, that's a risk you take clear coating white. Happens sometimes, and sometimes not.


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Old 09-08-2016, 02:40 PM   #5
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remember this date......I'm.......speechless!
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:04 PM   #6
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remember this date......I'm.......speechless!
And we were beginning to think you were a blabber mouth.
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:12 PM   #7
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Is this a common practice for painting cabinets?
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Old 09-08-2016, 08:21 PM   #8
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Is this a common practice for painting cabinets?
Unfortunately, it is. Oddly enough it's usually recommended by people who don't actually "sell" the products. Why put a cheap waterbourne poly over a "premium" trim paint? That's why I'm speechless. From telling people coming in to buy the products that it is NOT a good idea. Decorinas! Wth?

If any of you ever run in to the person who is telling people this is the "best" system for cabinets, can you pop them once for me?
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Old 09-09-2016, 04:07 AM   #9
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Unfortunately, it is. Oddly enough it's usually recommended by people who don't actually "sell" the products. Why put a cheap waterbourne poly over a "premium" trim paint? That's why I'm speechless. From telling people coming in to buy the products that it is NOT a good idea. Decorinas! Wth?

If any of you ever run in to the person who is telling people this is the "best" system for cabinets, can you pop them once for me?
It's such a bad idea but people always ask to have it done. Why? Got me.
Another instance where we have to educate the stupid.
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:18 AM   #10
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It's such a bad idea but people always ask to have it done. Why? Got me.
Another instance where we have to educate the stupid.
Yep - ill be honest not something that's usually done, but it was actually recommended by my SW rep if they wanted a clearcoat added...go figure.

So in general, does everyone pretty much agree SW ProClassic in it by itself is perfectly well suited and durable w/out any additional coating? The HO was adamant about a 'durable' wipable' cleanable' surface...similar to factory white cabinets. These were originally hickory.
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:22 AM   #11
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Clear is a durable finish in select circumstances. A stain conversion would be one. I would have gone oil in leiu of latex and skipped the clear but in occupied homes thats not always an option. Did you use Polycrilic for the topcoat?
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:50 AM   #12
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Clear is a durable finish in select circumstances. A stain conversion would be one. I would have gone oil in leiu of latex and skipped the clear but in occupied homes thats not always an option. Did you use Polycrilic for the topcoat?

yes. poly was the topcoat. the bin primer was enough to stink them out of their house for a night which is another reason I chose PC. I know oils have yellowed over time and I have never had an issue in the past with Proclassic, usually a very durable finish I thought anyways
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rptipton View Post
Yep - ill be honest not something that's usually done, but it was actually recommended by my SW rep if they wanted a clearcoat added...go figure.

So in general, does everyone pretty much agree SW ProClassic in it by itself is perfectly well suited and durable w/out any additional coating? The HO was adamant about a 'durable' wipable' cleanable' surface...similar to factory white cabinets. These were originally hickory.
Which Proclassic? There are three different ones. And to put it a different way, if I had to pick from 100 different paints to paint cabinets any of the Proclassic versions would probably be in my top 15. Top 20 anyway. Not the absolute best but definitely a good pick.

Now if I had to pick from 100 clear finishes to use on cabinets, Polyacrylic would be dead last.
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:01 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rptipton View Post
Yep - ill be honest not something that's usually done, but it was actually recommended by my SW rep if they wanted a clearcoat added...go figure.

So in general, does everyone pretty much agree SW ProClassic in it by itself is perfectly well suited and durable w/out any additional coating? The HO was adamant about a 'durable' wipable' cleanable' surface...similar to factory white cabinets. These were originally hickory.
No surprise to me. His MBA didn't do so well by him this time! Make sure he knows about the problem so he can learn from it. And make sure to ask HIM how to fix it and if he is going to do anything to help you get it fixed. There may be some freebies in it for you.
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:57 PM   #15
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I made the same mistake when I started painting. Thank God it was on my project and not a customer's. I'm going to redo it but was wondering if I can just rough it up and repaint it or do I have to strip it?
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:32 PM   #16
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Spraying a coat of clear coat after latex is an extra protection and it is what i do sometimes as long as they pay for the extra hours and materials.

But NOT polyurethane.
Deft has water base ACRYLIC CLEAR COAT and fool proof to spray and rock hard when it cures and i always love the satin over gloss paint.
IF the base coat is %100 percent Acrylic is ok to spray Cat.LACQUER either.

these are my experience and it works for me.please don't make argument over chemicals.
thank you.
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Old 09-10-2016, 02:02 AM   #17
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I'd always recommend a clear over a painted finish for cabinets.

More durability with all the moving parts etc.

But polycrylic is the issue. It's not a hard enough finish or durable enough.

Plus it yellows when put over white.

Why? Other than resins etc. It's not sold as a water white or water clear finish. In the waterbourne world, if it says that...it won't impart a tint. If it doesn't specifically** say that...it will impart a yellow tint more than likely.

P.s. sherwin doesn't have anything saying that for their waterbased clears. I've had reps call and hot line specialists on the phone...no dice.

Need something like a Target Coatings, General Finishes, or ML Campbell to find what your looking for and only then it has to be water clear or water white. Call manufacturers and they'll set you up straight.

That will prevent your white or light colors from developing an amber/yellow or tint hue.
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:31 PM   #18
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Pro classic hybrid or alkyd? Ammonia in the clear yellows the paint.
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rptipton View Post
Yep - ill be honest not something that's usually done, but it was actually recommended by my SW rep if they wanted a clearcoat added...go figure.

So in general, does everyone pretty much agree SW ProClassic in it by itself is perfectly well suited and durable w/out any additional coating? The HO was adamant about a 'durable' wipable' cleanable' surface...similar to factory white cabinets. These were originally hickory.
Yupp. Great product.

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Old 10-17-2016, 02:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technogod View Post
Spraying a coat of clear coat after latex is an extra protection and it is what i do sometimes as long as they pay for the extra hours and materials.

But NOT polyurethane.
Deft has water base ACRYLIC CLEAR COAT and fool proof to spray and rock hard when it cures and i always love the satin over gloss paint.
IF the base coat is %100 percent Acrylic is ok to spray Cat.LACQUER either.

these are my experience and it works for me.please don't make argument over chemicals.
thank you.
Maybe i am reading it wrong. IF the base coat is %100 percent Acrylic is ok to spray Cat.LACQUER either. Are you saying you do spray cat laq over acrylic. I have not had a ggod result with that combo.
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