Green alternative to BM Impervo enamel alkyd - Page 2 - Paint Talk

George Z · 01-27-2012, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by degarb

I think his opinion that Aura is crap is very valid.

I have spent about 10 grand trying various water borne alternative that could come close to the pop of the oil. Without revealing my product conclusion (based on 2005-2009 tests), I can reveal my overall concerns. Mainly, that the tougher and more glasslike the waterborne finish, the more impossible it will become to multicoat without fisheying. Also, whenever you sacrifice longevity for low voc, or lead disturbing, you have a false economy. Like, let us put polution controls to lower c02 by 10 percent and get a car that barely gets 1/3 gas mileage. (no c02 for refining, shipping and drilling?)

Your secret product findings aside.
"Sacrificing longevity for VOC" is not a quality but a social proposition.

I will not accept the quality argument.
There is no alkyd that will yellow less than acrylics,
in this case add colour lock and Aura wins the longevity game hands down.

Exterior: Alkyd in the sun fades in 2 years, especially dark colours (what longevity?)
Alkyd is way too rigid and will always crack more than quality acrylics.

But really, I don't want my guys to get that Impervo headache I have always had for years.
But mostly, I want my painters to have sweet dreams at night.
There are better causes to sacrifice our brain cells
than Mrs Smith's baseboards and spindles.

straight_lines · 01-29-2012, 06:31 PM

Aura isn't crap. Not even close, its the best wall paint on the market for film build and color hide period. The fact its low voc is a plus.

Only time I have had fish eye issues is with clears. There are some pretty impressive wb enamels out there now, not as good as traditional oil but close.

**DeanV** · 01-29-2012, 09:10 PM

Ditto to fisheyes in clears only. I have never had a wb paint fisheye without an obvious contamination.

Aura is pricey, but it still is a great product. We are very happy with the matte, although we are specifying more regal select lately.

vermontpainter · 01-29-2012, 09:21 PM

Oh me oh my, some folks really don't want to let go of oil.

Competence in waterborne is critical to painters who intend to stick around for another decade. Primers too.

I'm with George on this one. Oil finishes are nice. Waterborne finishes are nice. Save the brain cells.

This isnt about voc or epa. Its about working conditions and avoiding chronic issues.

The 10 minutes it takes me to clean a hvlp gun with thinner makes me just about puke. 25 years ago it was a great buzz.

All set with that. Its a much more practical life move to get good in things that involve water.

I wont even go into how good powder form crystalline silica is for us.

**DeanV** · 01-29-2012, 09:25 PM

Isn't the silica in acrylic as much as oil???

vermontpainter · 01-29-2012, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeanV

Isn't the silica in acrylic as much as oil???

I believe that you won't find as much crystalline silica in anything as in oil based enamel.

Edit: Dean, I just checked msds, it is present in both 235 and 314.

Rick the painter · 01-30-2012, 06:20 PM

We just did a Advance over Satin Impervo (White) trim job. I have to say i was thrilled with the results! The sills and windows look like glass.There were no doors,i know there will be a learning curve there.Congrats to Benjamin Mooore,Advance is killer!

paint manager · 02-14-2012, 08:21 PM

A great replacement for Satin Impervo Alkyd is the Advance Satin, Semi or High Gloss. Ask your local Benjamin Moore dealer for a sample.

finishesbykevyn · 02-16-2012, 09:14 AM

What's interesting here, is that noone mentioned that he will probably have to prime that oil first to get superior results with the acrylic top coat. Now ,coming out with a Low VOC primer would be taking it one step further.. Even though they do say that 100% Acrylic will go over properly prepared oil, I just don't trust it..

George Z · 02-17-2012, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finishesbykevyn

What's interesting here, is that noone mentioned that he will probably have to prime that oil first to get superior results with the acrylic top coat. Now ,coming out with a Low VOC primer would be taking it one step further.. Even though they do say that 100% Acrylic will go over properly prepared oil, I just don't trust it..

Advance is not an acrylic, but an alkyd (oil).
We painted straight on Satin Impervo with it after lightly sanding it.
After the product cures it is very hard and durable.

ron e · 02-29-2012, 06:02 PM

i agree aura is overpriced and hard to work with, lay it on tip it off and leave it alone don,t over brush this stuff

The paint tester · 03-14-2012, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by someresearch

I currently have interior trim painted in Benjamin Moore's alkyd Impervo enamel. I am looking for a non-toxic or at least zero VOC (including zero VOC for the tint) paint.

Does anyone have any recommendations on a paint with similar leveling and flow characteristics, without the yellowing, and in a low/medium lustre finish? I want zero to minimal brush strokes. I want scuff protection so that the paint lasts. Eggshell does not provide enough scuff protection, and semi-gloss is not desired.

Most of the new non-toxic or zero VOC paints that I have seen are either not recommended for trim, or they do not come in a satin sheen. I am not concerned about price because we're only talking about a gallon or two.

Yes. I want my cake and I want to eat it too. Any recommendations?

only 1!! Muralo Ultra. levels like an oil, will not yellow, in 24hrs. you can sand to a powder. My advice from testing this product is such. Do NOT load it up like you would satin impervo..brush it on thinner, move faster, tip it off, and do not look back! if you happen to look back and see a sag...DO NOT touch it! It will have already set up and you'll do more to screw the finish up than help. Next day check and see if you can even "find" that sag. It truly levels so well you may not. If you do find it...use a good sanding block (extra fine or fine used many times) my favorite is by Webb Abasives, sand that sag out, apply your second coat. If you are spraying, FOG it on, or tack coat it (conventional or air assisted) airless, use the finest tip you can DBL attomizer, 207 etc...fog it on, stand back and watch what happens in as little as 10 min. the particles that look like orange peel flow out, join and dry down beautiful in 1 hour. Hit it again same way when it's dry to the touch. Try this over unsanded oil trim and try to scratch it off after just 5 days...most acrylics need 30 days to reach that hardness and even then will lift right off. This stuff holds on better than most primers I've used. I will say, my first spry job was as I have always done, nice even wet film, as I moved on around the piece I was spraying, the side I started was sagged to hell and back...Spoke to the rep and he said as I said above do not touch it, sand it lightly after 24 hours, and fog it on the next day...looked like lacquer! Forget Aura, thick like mud, overpriced, dries way to fast, (most acrylics do unfortunately).