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Old 05-14-2011, 03:02 PM   #1
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Default Painting PVC trim?

Hey guys, I'm replacing a few pieces of fascia on my own home with PVC 1x6" and was wondering if there's any different procedure that works best with this material? I'll be using Superpaint exterior on it.

I've never used it before and just thought I'd check in case there are any tips/tricks for best adhesion that may differ from wood...

BTW, this has a super slick smooth surface on all sides...

Thanks!


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Old 05-14-2011, 07:52 PM   #2
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I always used Stix on PVC trim follow by 2 coats of BM Aura or BM Moorlife/gard/glo

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Old 05-14-2011, 08:42 PM   #3
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I'm pretty sure that Superpaint would peel right off. I did an addition last summer that was trimmed with PVC and used Duration Satin 2 coats- worked like a charm. I did an adhesion test first and that stuff grabbed like crazy as soon as it was dry to the touch. The only thing though was that the PVC was not that slick at all. If so, I think I would've primed it first for sure.
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:38 PM   #4
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yeah you might want to check a few samples before putting superpaint direct to pvc or anything non porous for that matter. If I thought scuffing would help, id say so.
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Old 05-15-2011, 02:19 PM   #5
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If it is your own home why not use Duration?
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Old 05-15-2011, 03:25 PM   #6
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scratch Duration off your list. It will not bond to smooth faced plastic without an agressive primer and liberal scuff sand.
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Old 05-15-2011, 03:35 PM   #7
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XIM bonding primer,for smooth or hard to adherd surfaces,will save ur butt in the long run
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:19 PM   #8
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Thanks for the input so far guys....

I'm in the Mid South (Memphis area) which is subject to quick and drastic weather systems. The weather went from about 85degrees Friday morning to being in the 60s and raining not two hours later (weather had no rain forecast for the day lol). I had planned on priming/painting prior to install then touching up but had to get the trim nailed up due to the sudden rain (gotta love the Paslode cordless framing/trim guns!)

So with that in mind, I've never used Duration and have read that it can be finnicky in direct sun and when brushing especially. When I used to do lots of exteriors (back injury stopped that) we always used Superpaint and loved it, so that's what I was going to likely use again.

I actually did apply some Superpaint to a scrap piece of trim and it has been sitting in the garage for nearly 24hrs with an average temp/humidity of 68degrees and 60-70% humidity. I will perform a scratch test soon and have little doubt it will scratch right off. But to its credit, it nearly covered the white trim with only a few holidays/streaks with a Wooster Shasta Firm brush on the first coat.

I'm a big fan of XIM primers and have been using their latest latex 1-2-3 ("Sure Prime" IIRC) for even interior water stains with great success. I'm going to double check the can's specs but would prefer to use latex over the oil alternative.

I'll read up on the XIM bonding primer though as I value the experience of others!

Now I just have to order another ladder hook....can't find mine and unfortunately, you can't buy them at lowes, home depot or SW around here.
EDIT: What about STIX from Home Depot? I thought I read around here that it does well?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
Oops, I forgot it was mentioned at the beginning of the thread...So it'll either be Zinsser or Stix I think.

Jeremy

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Old 05-15-2011, 04:42 PM   #9
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scratch Duration off your list. It will not bond to smooth faced plastic without an agressive primer and liberal scuff sand.
Good to know. I would have tested it before using it, but I would have thought there wouldn't have been bonding issues.

One of my SW store managers told me last week that Duration without primer isn't warrantied even though its marketed as self priming.
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Old 05-15-2011, 05:51 PM   #10
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I actually realized that I still have part of a gallon of the Zinsser 1-2-3 water based primer/bonder. I think I'm going to give it a shot but will first do a small test spot again in the garage. There's supposed to be a 30% chance of rain tomorrow so I may not get to do any painting but we'll see....

I like the 1-2-3 because like many bonders, it can be topcoated in an hour...Plus it's in my van!

BTW, it's right at 24 hours and without scuffing or any other prep, the Superpaint help up to scuffing really well actually, but digging in my fingernail and pulling, it pretty easily removed the paint as figured. Though with the humidity and only a day's cure time, it might fare better after a few days and weeks, who knows....But this is real time and effort at stake so no taking chances. Oh, what might have been....lol.
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:22 PM   #11
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Default Use Stixx

The first thing you should do is sand all sharp edges --all of them. wipe all the surface down with alcohol then prime with stix. After that process you can finish coat with any exterior finish paint. Bomb proof
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masterpiece View Post
I actually realized that I still have part of a gallon of the Zinsser 1-2-3 water based primer/bonder. I think I'm going to give it a shot but will first do a small test spot again in the garage. There's supposed to be a 30% chance of rain tomorrow so I may not get to do any painting but we'll see....

I like the 1-2-3 because like many bonders, it can be topcoated in an hour...Plus it's in my van!

BTW, it's right at 24 hours and without scuffing or any other prep, the Superpaint help up to scuffing really well actually, but digging in my fingernail and pulling, it pretty easily removed the paint as figured. Though with the humidity and only a day's cure time, it might fare better after a few days and weeks, who knows....But this is real time and effort at stake so no taking chances. Oh, what might have been....lol.
I would not risk using 1-2-3. although it is a great primer. it is not made with the proper bonding molecules for plastics and pvc substrates. I would definitely use either stix or xim bond primer. I have heard and seen major liability cases with painting azeck or pvc trim because of improper priming.
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:47 PM   #13
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Here is the manufacture's specs:
http://www.azek.com/pics/reference_d...t-Bulletin.pdf
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:19 PM   #14
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Xim....I agree with billy the kid.

scuff it first....
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHlll View Post
I would not risk using 1-2-3. although it is a great primer. it is not made with the proper bonding molecules for plastics and pvc substrates. I would definitely use either stix or xim bond primer. I have heard and seen major liability cases with painting azeck or pvc trim because of improper priming.
Interesting.....is that despite the manufacturer listing PVC as one of the supported substrates? I'm just curious since this will be my first time coating PVC. I'm actually performing a test with the Sure Prime 1-2-3 right now on a scrap piece.

Thanks!
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:30 PM   #16
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yes thats what i said.. although i am not sure which zinsser product your talking about. They have water based 1-2-3, 1-2-3 plus, and smart prime. I would not use the water based 1-2-3. I had to run downstairs to my garage to reconfirm that it says nothing about pvc on the can. Do your homework!!
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:33 PM   #17
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That's why I mentioned this is Smart Prime WB 1-2-3. And it does specifically list PVC along with glass and tile and suitable substrates to prime with this product. I've also noticed that not all stores carry this particular version. Either way, I won't have time to paint the PVC for a couple of (sunny) days so I'll check the test piece then and go from there.

Thanks for the feedback/experience guys!

Jeremy
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHlll View Post
yes thats what i said.. although i am not sure which zinsser product your talking about. They have water based 1-2-3, 1-2-3 plus, and smart prime. I would not use the water based 1-2-3. I had to run downstairs to my garage to reconfirm that it says nothing about pvc on the can. Do your homework!!
Thats funny. I have an older quart of the 1-2-3 in the shop that I saved that is custom tinted for a particular project. I'm not sure how old it is-maybe a couple years at most. It says it can be used on pvc right on the back. I'll have to look at a newer can in the truck when I get a chance and compare. I wonder if the product has changed or they just decided it didn't work on pvc and they took it off the can??
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:45 PM   #19
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guys i appologize, i reread the can and it does say pvc....however i still would not use it on those synthetic trim boards. Stixx or XIM....its proven for me.
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:53 PM   #20
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Hey no problem!
I'll probably try the XIM or Stixx due to the trim facing the east and getting some serious sun during the day. I'd hate for anything to blister due to the heat!

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