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Old 03-01-2008, 11:55 PM   #1
 
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Default Automotive headlight painting question/probem (pics)

I am attempting to black out my headlights, the pieces I am painting are plastic with an reflective coating. I purchased some krylon fusion paint (many others have had success with this paint) and followed the directions of others (go outside to inside, 8-10 inches, light coats, etc.) but I have run into a rather large problem.

Every time I coat a section there is always at least 1 section that after going on flat "mountains up" or grows up from the paint into a spider web type pattern. I don’t know if this has anything to do with it but I had a puddle on one section and I sanded it back down to the plastic (went through the reflective layer) that section ALWAYS gets the "mountains" around it. The other parts just seem to get them here and there.

Here is a picture of what I am talking about, any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I have thrown the paint on, sanded it totally flat but stayed within the paint (not going down to plastic) and then waited 6 days and what is shown below STILL happened. The paint looks great everywhere else, which I don't understand! Any ways thanks again.



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Old 03-01-2008, 11:57 PM   #2
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We do residential and commercial painting here brother. Maybe, just maybe, there may be someone here to help you.
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:11 AM   #3
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So, when you do that sort of thing, do you no longer drive at night? Or do you have a big like 2 million candlepower headlamp you can strap on at night? Either way, small price to pay for some cool looking headlights.



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Old 03-02-2008, 09:10 AM   #4
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I think the spot has possible contamination; wax, Armor All or oil. You might sand to the plastic and clean with MEK then repaint. Test the MEK to make sure it doesn't eat the plastic.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vermontpainter View Post
So, when you do that sort of thing, do you no longer drive at night? Or do you have a big like 2 million candlepower headlamp you can strap on at night? Either way, small price to pay for some cool looking headlights.
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:48 PM   #6
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It's painting over uncured paint that causes that. The reason it's uncured could be contamination of armour all or wax. I would wet sand and prime with krylon flat black which is a forgiving product then several mist coats of the fusion. MOPAINT
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:06 PM   #7
 
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they are actually bi-xenon projector headamps that require no reflectors to operate and put out 3200 lumens on a stock ballast but they can be supercharged... and when aimed correctly they do not blind oncomming traffic do to a shield inside the projector that does not allow light above a certain point.

but back to the painting thing... the surface is clean i am pretty sure. i sanded it down after the paint dried for 6 days. i painted right after no time for other chemicals to get involved?

i will try the flat black primer and see if that works with the satin over it. thanks for the responses!
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:44 AM   #8
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Don't wash with MEK lol

Mo is correct it saying an uncured coating beneath your last coat could cause this, or it can be caused by incompatible coatings, like trying to apply lacquer over a polyurathane. Basically your top coat is reactivating or softening your base coat.

Wax or other contaminates will usually leave fish eyes. Fish Eye Eliminator will usually cure that. Does not look like this is your prob though.

I don't recall the name.. but there is a specific primer body shops use over plastic body parts and such... phone one and ask them. You may be able to google something there also.

Also in any plastic body part add Flex to your coatings, it increases the ability for your coating to expand and contract without cracking. Especially with a part like this that will heat up and cool down.

Cheers
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:44 AM   #9
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The paint you are using is incompatible with the plastic or whatever the plastic was originally coated with. What you are getting is called alligatoring. I certainly wouldn't recommend Krylon, that's your problem. Automotive painting is quite specialized due to all the different types of plastics and coatings that must be refinished. Each requires a different primer, paint and method of application. Best advice I can give you is to let a body shop paint these for you.
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Old 03-03-2008, 12:19 PM   #10
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Step one: Soak rag in MEK until it is saturated and put in back pocket for later use. Sand area (make sure to be thorough, take your time). Dust off the entire area, again no rushing needed. take rag and wipe surface, not to much. Re-soak rag and put in pocket. Apply one light coat of paint and allow to cure. Repeat process at least three times or until desired results are achieved. Good Luck!
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Old 03-03-2008, 12:51 PM   #11
 
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the paint dried for 6 days and i am putting the same paint for second layer. which is why i dont understand?

the reactive thing makes perfect sense in the one area that i sanded to far because i actually went past the crome layer to the clear plastic. but on one part i never sanded that for so i dont understand why its happening on that one. the first layer went on perfect then dried for 24 hrs.

i will get some MEK and some primer and see if that fixes it. i actually have some stuff that is about to get color matched by a shop so i mite send this with it but it is personal now! =) want to solve it first hand.. heh

thanks again for all the help guys!
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:12 PM   #12
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Well then it could be because the Krylon doesn't like itself when recoated. Who knows. Like I said Krylon wouldn't be my choice here. I just saw a whole new Honda bumper do the same thing at my friend's body shop. It was an after market and the primer they put on it in China didn't like the paint we use here. It ain't easy.
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:54 PM   #13
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ah... I always get this problem. simply cut back the surface with 3000 grit, then degrease and prime with Exolide 1. this should cure the problem.

simple if you know how.

paul
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:44 PM   #14
 
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I Would Let The Paint Cure Sand It Down With Some Till You Get The Mounds Out ..4000 It Then Try Again..i Would Also Would Have Used Bulldog Grip Before I Painted On Plastic
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:40 PM   #15
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Sorry I must here.. I tried not to but... lol... the failure here is not "Alligatoring". Rather it is "Lifting" & or "Wrinkling".

If it is Lifting the culprit is material type related, if it is Wrinkling, then either your base coat was not cured enough or you tried to build to much top coat on or you recoated the top coat too soon. You can take your fingernail and scratch off the "Wrinkle".. is there base coat still there or is it the bare plastic??

Oh probably ok to remove that MEK Rag from your rear pocket now :P lol

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Old 03-04-2008, 10:43 PM   #16
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Why didn't he just buy a dark lens?
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Old 03-05-2008, 05:28 PM   #17
 
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a "dark lens" would degrade the light output by a great deal. also a simple cover will never match the aesthetics of a blacked out/color matched light. also I am pretty sure overlaying the headlight is illegal (tho plently of people still do it.)

where can i pick up this exolide 1? i was going to give it another go tonight if its not to cold. also the problem isnt "wrinkling" i would say, i can not scratch it away with my nail it is like the paint expanded bc it went on flat but then grew and appears solid.
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Old 03-05-2008, 06:10 PM   #18
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I think you should find your local Dupont automotive supplier. Tell him what you want to acheive and he will hook you up. Most products will come in an airesol now days. I would give up on the fusion paint. I just noticed it's peeling off my plastic grill on my Samari. I never have liked that product. Most of Krylon's stuff is great.This is a case where all the money is in the TV ad and nothing in the can. MOPAINT
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Old 03-08-2008, 11:02 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraCDN View Post

Oh probably ok to remove that MEK Rag from your rear pocket now :P lol

Cheers
I was starting to think someone might take that seriously. Maybe next time I should add
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