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Old 02-26-2012, 11:20 AM   #1
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Default Bath cabinets-water or oil?

Client has new (poplar or birch-homeowner not sure) wood bathroom cabinets and trim (prolly Pine?). I have been reading and reading posts....my head is swimming! I prefer to do the WB, but want a durable end product. The glaze is a BM color...not sure where to even get an oil glaze if I go oil.

-water or oil? (remember it's a bathroom with a shower). I can spray the water but I'd have to brush the oil
-Or Advanatge or the Proclassic Alkaloid/WB? But some of the threads here scared me off that idea, along with the price.
-SW proclassic or BM impervo? I am a SW girl, but the colors are BM and there is a designer involved...last BM color mixed in SW products were ever so slightly off.

-Kerri
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:41 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by four2knapp View Post
Client has new (poplar or birch-homeowner not sure) wood bathroom cabinets and trim (prolly Pine?). I have been reading and reading posts....my head is swimming! I prefer to do the WB, but want a durable end product. The glaze is a BM color...not sure where to even get an oil glaze if I go oil.

-water or oil? (remember it's a bathroom with a shower). I can spray the water but I'd have to brush the oil
-Or Advanatge or the Proclassic Alkaloid/WB? But some of the threads here scared me off that idea, along with the price.
-SW proclassic or BM impervo? I am a SW girl, but the colors are BM and there is a designer involved...last BM color mixed in SW products were ever so slightly off. I'm not to familiar with BM, but im sure someone here will have more input

-Kerri
If its just one cabinet I would just b/r anyway....I would use coverstain with proclassic topcoat
I'm not to familiar with BM, but you will get some good feedback I'm sure

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Old 02-26-2012, 11:45 AM   #3
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With correct prep both work well. The new WB's are great, but handle differently than the oils. They also don't amber with time.
You said something about a glaze- where is that? Is that what you are going over, or will there be a glaze coat on top of what you are putting up?
Advance would work well, don't be afraid of the price- a Qt would do most bath vanities a couple of times. Enamels go a long way.
You want to use good stuff.
You said you can spray? - for one vanity I would brush either way.
All your choices are good and would work- a bit of a preference thing on sheen and look. I do use BM most- and would go with Advance. Heed the dry times- read the can.

Just noticed you said new- I was thinking repaint- Only difference is priming raw wood. A good underbody i think works better than coverstain- BM has an excellent oil one. If priming in latex- believe it or not I really like Zinsser Primecoat2 for raw wood- hate to say it but it is only at HD..
Scuff and prime with a good bonding primer- that is usually the biggest key. And make sure that they are clean.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:15 PM   #4
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Thanks for the quick responses.

Sorry, I did not clarrify in my post. Brand new wood cabinets. I was going to use the Zinsser (from my local harware store who is also my BM supplier) as the primer....and yes, the glazing goes after the 2 coats of paint. The cabnits are a little more than a single vanity (see the pic). I will still brush the cab base, trim and mirror onsite. Would you still brush the doors and drawers?

I was going to sand, vac, wipe clean, zinsser, fill holes and gaps, sand, vac, clean, zinsser, dry overnight, sand, vac, clean, paint, dry overnight, repeat, glaze, dry overnight, topcoat, sand, clean, topcoat-done! I also have the walls, ceiling and a large tree to paint on a 15' cathedral wall.

Do i want to prime both sides of the trim before the contractor installs it? I rarely do any new (in the case a total gut remodel) construction?
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:10 PM   #5
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Zinnser makes a billion primers- which one?
It is pretty basic to dust out- prime, fill , (No need to reprime) usually 2 coats paint - but that depends on how opaque you need it for the glaze-
then glaze ( what are you doing for a glaze? ever done this before?) and what are you using for a top coat?
I usually have them install all and then do above- trim included- so backpriming is nice- almost never done.

I take it you do mostly decorative painting? Or are you a HO?
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:29 PM   #6
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I have been told by both SW rep, and Ben more reps not to use oil in bath rooms.. if possible.. Due to moisture.. Chalking also oil promotes mildew growth.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:42 PM   #7
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-I'd love to be mostly a decorative painter. But, those jobs a few and far btwn. I paint anything found inside including bathtubs (Well, the outside of a clawfoot tub)
-I was gonna prime with Zinsser 123. If i do not prime the fill again, i get issues with the paint & glaze in the repair area
-Glaze that ages corners and groves (see pic -another job-without distressing this time).
-Base on current project will be darker than the pic BM1032 "Bar Harbor Beige"
-topcoat BM stays clear for WB and Arm-r-seal wipe on for oil
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:52 PM   #8
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There are very few visible nail holes or other things to fill on new cabs- mainly caulking. I get to reprime spackle- but you won't have much.
2 finish coats will get a more uniform coating.
The hardest part in my opinion will be the clear. Stays Clear is hard to get to look good, it dries so fast. With a darker color I would consider using Zar Ultra Max instead. It is a waterborne alkyd- and will yellow ever so slightly compared to stays clear- but with harbor beige you wouldn't know. Handles beautifully- flows- nice open time. Your Ace Hdwre should have it or be able to get it.
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:30 PM   #9
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[QUOTE=BrushJockey;295532] If priming in latex- believe it or not I really like Zinsser Primecoat2 for raw wood- QUOTE]

I just want to clarrify, are you talking about Zinsser B-I-N2 PRIMER STAIN BLOCKER ?

And I meant Zinsser BULLS EYE 1-2-3 WATER-BASE PRIMER
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:38 PM   #10
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NO, I didn't mean BIn. I meant just what it said, Primecoat2.
And i am very familiar with 123. It will do the job. What I like about the other one is that it acts more like an underbody and gives a prime that you sand smooth- 123 will give a smooth coating . Just a different approach.
When you use many different primers you get to know the subtle differences between them and how they perform.

Here's Jack Pauhl's blog on it
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