Ben Moore advance - Page 2 - Paint Talk - Professional Painting Contractors Forum
CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY, IT'S FREE!
Go Back   Paint Talk - Professional Painting Contractors Forum > Painting Forum > General Painting Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-19-2015, 06:07 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
ExcelPaintingCo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 1,577
Rewards Points: 4
Thanks: 1,738
Thanked 2,143 Times in 896 Posts
View ExcelPaintingCo's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmayspaint
I use 400-600. I'm sure you could go finer.
same here
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ExcelPaintingCo is offline   Reply With Quote

Warning: The topics covered on this site include activities in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. PaintTalk.com DOES NOT guarantee the accuracy or completeness of any information contained on this site. Always use proper safety precaution and reference reliable outside sources before attempting any construction or remodeling task!

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-19-2015, 09:33 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Central MS
Posts: 5,720
Rewards Points: 82
Thanks: 9,837
Thanked 5,829 Times in 3,142 Posts
View slinger58's Photo Album My Photos
Default

I'm working through some issues with PPG Breakthrough on the current remodel job. Using it for new and existing trim, and new cabs and doors. But I'm already sold on it for adhesion and fast curing.

I'd been using Advance for the past couple of years on new cabs, but the last new cabinet job I did with Advance was in a medium gray color. After letting the doors and the face frames of the cabs dry for a week before rehanging the doors, they still stuck to to the face frames and pulled paint off back to the primer. That's embarrassing.

On the current job using Breakthrough, I stacked bookshelves together one day after spraying to carry back to location and they didn't stick at all. Cab doors to face frames, no issue after one day on the drying rack.
__________________
Hanging on by a thread,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
slinger58 is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to slinger58 For This Useful Post:
I paint paint (11-20-2015)
Old 11-20-2015, 12:30 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
Zoomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,147
Rewards Points: 526
Thanks: 181
Thanked 515 Times in 348 Posts
View Zoomer's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by slinger58 View Post
I'm working through some issues with PPG Breakthrough on the current remodel job. Using it for new and existing trim, and new cabs and doors. But I'm already sold on it for adhesion and fast curing.

I'd been using Advance for the past couple of years on new cabs, but the last new cabinet job I did with Advance was in a medium gray color. After letting the doors and the face frames of the cabs dry for a week before rehanging the doors, they still stuck to to the face frames and pulled paint off back to the primer. That's embarrassing.

On the current job using Breakthrough, I stacked bookshelves together one day after spraying to carry back to location and they didn't stick at all. Cab doors to face frames, no issue after one day on the drying rack.
We have never used it. Does it have a similar viscosity? Does it spray out as well as Advance?
Zoomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-20-2015, 06:22 AM   #24
King Dude
 
Rbriggs82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 6,450
Rewards Points: 5,000
Thanks: 4,804
Thanked 5,053 Times in 2,874 Posts
View Rbriggs82's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoomer View Post
We have never used it. Does it have a similar viscosity? Does it spray out as well as Advance?
It's pretty thin so you can't put it on very heavy or it will run. But with a two hour recoat time who cares. Last set of cabinets I did with it I didn't sand the back of a drawer to see how it would adhere, not even an hour later I couldn't scratch it off digging as hard as I could with my nails.

The finish is fantastic when spraying, it even layed out nice with a brush despite the short open time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
|
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Rbriggs82 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Rbriggs82 For This Useful Post:
I paint paint (11-20-2015)
Old 11-20-2015, 09:30 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
Zoomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,147
Rewards Points: 526
Thanks: 181
Thanked 515 Times in 348 Posts
View Zoomer's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rbriggs82 View Post
It's pretty thin so you can't put it on very heavy or it will run. But with a two hour recoat time who cares. Last set of cabinets I did with it I didn't sand the back of a drawer to see how it would adhere, not even an hour later I couldn't scratch it off digging as hard as I could with my nails.

The finish is fantastic when spraying, it even layed out nice with a brush despite the short open time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
I'm stoked about trying it. Thank you for the response.
Zoomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2015, 03:08 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
ExcelPaintingCo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 1,577
Rewards Points: 4
Thanks: 1,738
Thanked 2,143 Times in 896 Posts
View ExcelPaintingCo's Photo Album My Photos
Default

What's not to love? Took some pics today of a current job. Dry, sprayed, Advance satin at doors and trim. Color BM Iron Mountain. Ben Moore advance-image-2925587800.jpg Ben Moore advance-image-3908551787.jpg
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by ExcelPaintingCo; 11-20-2015 at 03:42 PM..
ExcelPaintingCo is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to ExcelPaintingCo For This Useful Post:
Damon T (11-21-2015), DrakeB (12-15-2015), I paint paint (11-20-2015), Jmayspaint (11-20-2015), PremierPaintingMa (12-15-2015), Rbriggs82 (11-21-2015), The Cutting Edge (11-20-2015)
Old 11-21-2015, 06:33 AM   #27
Member
 
papernpaste's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Delaware
Posts: 53
Rewards Points: 106
Thanks: 43
Thanked 27 Times in 15 Posts
View papernpaste's Photo Album My Photos
Default

I did my own kitchen cabs with Advance. I had to take the doors off and paint each side, twice. As mentioned, dry time is a "con." The finish does level like an alkyd. The tops of well used drawers need a repaint after five years. Over-all durability is okay...hardness leaves something to be desired. Bond is good-to-excellent.
I found that it could not be applied with any measurablebuild or it started to droop before it set up. Set up time is too long (or was three years ago when I purchased and used it for the last time.
Why not use BM (alkyd) Satin Impervo?
__________________

papernpaste is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2015, 09:16 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 389
Rewards Points: 579
Thanks: 1
Thanked 157 Times in 109 Posts
View Phinnster's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Excell
Looks sweet
Did you prime the metal ?
What rig ?
Phinnster is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Phinnster For This Useful Post:
ExcelPaintingCo (11-21-2015)
Old 11-21-2015, 10:27 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
ExcelPaintingCo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 1,577
Rewards Points: 4
Thanks: 1,738
Thanked 2,143 Times in 896 Posts
View ExcelPaintingCo's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phinnster
Excell Looks sweet Did you prime the metal ? What rig ?
Those are birch skin, solid core wood doors. The wide one is a large pocket door that separates the living space from the bedroom wing of the house. We primed everything with tinted all pro oil (relabeled coverstain). I'm a personal fan of 217, but my guys prefer the quicker dry times and sandability of the All pro stuff. We needed a lot of primer to erase the grain.

Everything was sprayed with a straight up, old school 395 airless with a Graco FF412 tip. Primer was sprayed with a regular worn 517 tip. Did I say we used a lot of primer?

All of the exterior doors in this house are steel and are even a darker color to match the dark bronze/blackish anodized finish on the windows and exterior flashing. They were delivered pre-primed, so we just sprayed the interiors with advance directly on the factory primer. They look even more mirror like than the doors pictured.

I've never had a call back due to related to Advance on any cabinet or mill pack. Like I said before, if you work with it correctly, then the finish results are second to none.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ExcelPaintingCo is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ExcelPaintingCo For This Useful Post:
PremierPaintingMa (12-15-2015)
Old 11-21-2015, 02:27 PM   #30
Painting Contractor
 
Damon T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 4,055
Rewards Points: 7,038
Thanks: 4,409
Thanked 2,726 Times in 1,599 Posts
View Damon T's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Nice work George! As always.
Damon T is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Damon T For This Useful Post:
ExcelPaintingCo (11-21-2015)
Old 11-21-2015, 05:44 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 389
Rewards Points: 579
Thanks: 1
Thanked 157 Times in 109 Posts
View Phinnster's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Reall sweet
Phinnster is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Phinnster For This Useful Post:
ExcelPaintingCo (11-22-2015)
Old 11-21-2015, 07:51 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Central MS
Posts: 5,720
Rewards Points: 82
Thanks: 9,837
Thanked 5,829 Times in 3,142 Posts
View slinger58's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Beautiful work, Excel. Have you ever had issues with the slow cure of Advance?

In a previous post I mentioned cab doors sticking to face frames after 7 days of dry time. It was a medium gray color and doors were sprayed in a controlled environment. Overnight dry allowed between finish coats.
__________________
Hanging on by a thread,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
slinger58 is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to slinger58 For This Useful Post:
ExcelPaintingCo (11-21-2015)
Old 11-21-2015, 09:02 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
ExcelPaintingCo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 1,577
Rewards Points: 4
Thanks: 1,738
Thanked 2,143 Times in 896 Posts
View ExcelPaintingCo's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by slinger58
Beautiful work, Excel. Have you ever had issues with the slow cure of Advance? In a previous post I mentioned cab doors sticking to face frames after 7 days of dry time. It was a medium gray color and doors were sprayed in a controlled environment. Overnight dry allowed between finish coats.
I haven't experienced anything like you described. The worst thing I had happen was with a window seat. We sprayed it (Iron mountain, same architect as the job in my pictures). The next day the electricians stood on it, with unprotected dirty shoes, to install light fixtures. That left some permanent marks. We had to respray it after the homeowners moved in. Then that night the cat walked all over it leaving faint but unremovable paw prints everywhere. Ended up rerolling it the final time, and leaving it bagged up for a few days.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
ExcelPaintingCo is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ExcelPaintingCo For This Useful Post:
I paint paint (11-21-2015), slinger58 (11-21-2015)
Old 11-22-2015, 11:42 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Zoomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,147
Rewards Points: 526
Thanks: 181
Thanked 515 Times in 348 Posts
View Zoomer's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Exel, your results speak volumes. Keep up the good work.
Attached Thumbnails
Ben Moore advance-1448206832795.jpg  

Zoomer is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Zoomer For This Useful Post:
ExcelPaintingCo (11-22-2015), PRC (11-22-2015)
Old 11-24-2015, 08:13 PM   #35
PRC
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,352
Rewards Points: 46
Thanks: 2,089
Thanked 954 Times in 564 Posts
View PRC's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Anyone experience issues sanding Advance? I find that the dust rolls and balls up and clogs paper easily. Whether it's hand sanded or with the Festools. Doesn't seem to matter how long it's cured either.
PRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2015, 01:22 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Jmayspaint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: East TN
Posts: 4,253
Rewards Points: 14
Thanks: 1,875
Thanked 3,731 Times in 1,918 Posts
View Jmayspaint's Photo Album My Photos
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PRC View Post
Anyone experience issues sanding Advance? I find that the dust rolls and balls up and clogs paper easily. Whether it's hand sanded or with the Festools. Doesn't seem to matter how long it's cured either.

Wet sand it, works great. Some 400-600 grit and a wet rag. Smooths it out wonderfully.
I have even done it with a vibrating sander. Using water with power tools is not advisable of course, but it works great if you just wet the surface with a rag first.
Jmayspaint is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Jmayspaint For This Useful Post:
ExcelPaintingCo (11-27-2015), PRC (11-26-2015)
Old 12-15-2015, 03:35 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
ElTacoPaco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 520
Rewards Points: 138
Thanks: 254
Thanked 57 Times in 46 Posts
View ElTacoPaco's Photo Album My Photos
Default

When the first coat cures it will be trapped if you put on a second coat and will make it soft
ElTacoPaco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2015, 05:20 PM   #38
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,373
Rewards Points: 764
Thanks: 4,849
Thanked 1,821 Times in 1,136 Posts
View DrakeB's Photo Album My Photos
Default

*As always before I talk about a BM product, I'm a BM vendor so please take what I say with that in mind*

Advance is a great product but it's definitely got some drawbacks and some tricks. As much as I'd love to say it's perfect for every job, it isn't. It needs to be treated like an oil, and the dry time needs to be respected or you can face some problems. I always recommend 12 hours+ to dry for it, or you can face some issues. It's also worth noting that the darker the color, the longer the dry time necessary. Some people neglect this, and it will cause trouble.


Boring science stuff:
[spoiler]
To clarify a bit (and hopefully help some people with the issues they've had?), the problem is not that if you recoat too soon that it will take longer to dry. The problem is that if you recoat too soon it inhibits the drying process so severely that you may never get as hard of a finish as you normally would, no matter how long you let it dry after. Advance will not form the molecular bonds it needs to in order to set up if you put another coat on it too soon and keep it from the air. It essentially traps the coating underneath in a partially dry state. It will still dry (eventually) but it will not have latticed correctly in order to form the tough, durable finish you expect from it.[/spoiler]

On the more positive end of the spectrum, though, if used correctly it makes one of the best looking finishes around (in my opinion), dries incredibly durable, will not noticeably yellow for a very long time compared to pure oils, and is tintable to any color unlike some of the alternatives.
DrakeB is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to DrakeB For This Useful Post:
PremierPaintingMa (12-15-2015), SemiproJohn (12-15-2015), The Paint Lady (12-18-2015), Zoomer (12-15-2015)
Reply

Tags
None

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Benjamin Moore UK EnglishDecorator General Painting Discussion 16 01-04-2016 02:06 PM
Fine finish spray tips. Zoomer General Painting Discussion 113 01-01-2016 10:20 PM
Advance Sags and Drips Pete Martin the Painter General Painting Discussion 101 08-07-2015 10:46 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Our Pro Sites Network
ContractorTalk.com | DrywallTalk.com | ElectricianTalk.com | HVACSite.com | PlumbingZone.com | RoofingTalk.com