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Old 02-18-2019, 07:06 PM   #21
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Quote:
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The point being, the paint is in the caulking.No need to paint it after you pull the tape. The trim I was referring to was already painted from the factory.

I don't like to caulk over masking tape. You have to let it dry before painting it and bridging may occur. That's when the caulking is attached to the masking tape and it tears the crap out of everything.



We're talking about an unusual order of operations here. I typically do the woodwork & doors first and then mask the trim and baseboards when painting the walls.
I think that's a great idea Mr Smith. It also eliminates a step.. You got me thinking now. This system could also work on baseboards..except for the fact that dust likes to stick to raw caulking..which I don't like.

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Last edited by finishesbykevyn; 02-18-2019 at 07:34 PM.. Reason: Add text
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Old 02-18-2019, 09:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by finishesbykevyn View Post
I think that's a great idea Mr Smith. It also eliminates a step.. You got me thinking now. This system could also work on baseboards..except for the fact that dust likes to stick to raw caulking..which I don't like.

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It's not raw caulking. It's mixed with paint.
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Old 02-19-2019, 09:42 AM   #23
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Why do you think you need to let the caulking dry? You do it all in one step. Run your tape, run your caulk, drag a brush over it, and pull your tape right away.

Granted, if you're not painting the trim (what about nailholes?) you could do the create a color caulk. But yes, it it is still raw caulking. Theres only enough paint in it to give it color. My issue with it, is that its really thin, and its shiny. I wish they would make a lower sheen clear for this purpose.

Another option is if you can find a stock colored caulk that is really close to the paint color. I know Kelly Moore still has a decent selection, but I havent seen any anywhere else lately, so I dont know if they still have it.

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Old 02-19-2019, 11:54 PM   #24
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If you've got white trim (90% of the time), caulk it with kitchen and bath acrylic stuff. White lightning or such.

After painting.

No one will notice, especially on crown.
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:03 PM   #25
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Taping and caulking.....makes about as much sense as AOC!
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:52 AM   #26
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Taping and caulking.....makes about as much sense as AOC!

What exactly about taping and caulking doesnt make sense??
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Old 02-22-2019, 02:24 PM   #27
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What exactly about taping and caulking doesnt make sense??
I don't understand why a painter would need tape to run a sharp line on smooth surfaces. I could understand it on a trim/split faced block interface or something similar. But drywall/crown interface... if you cant get a good result there-maybe you had better call a painter to do the job!
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Old 02-22-2019, 03:01 PM   #28
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That's insulting to say that.If you are doing a cut line on two surfaces to be painted then yeah you can go back and forth with the colors to get a clean line but the topic of this post was to caulk and not to get anything on the wall. I learned a long time that if you want to keep going back and forth to get it perfect you are wasting your time. Tape it, caulk it, paint it, perfect razor sharp lines in a fraction of the time. Leave the ego at the door and cash the check.
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:43 PM   #29
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That's insulting to say that.If you are doing a cut line on two surfaces to be painted then yeah you can go back and forth with the colors to get a clean line but the topic of this post was to caulk and not to get anything on the wall. I learned a long time that if you want to keep going back and forth to get it perfect you are wasting your time. Tape it, caulk it, paint it, perfect razor sharp lines in a fraction of the time. Leave the ego at the door and cash the check.
I realize the post was dealing with caulking, not cutting a line. It's not that difficult to CAULK the joint where the wall and crown meet and keep the caulk off the wall. Much easier than cutting in that juncture with paint (and that's not too difficult). Most crown is easier to cut in that a plain old ceiling/wall interface. Many cut way too much off the tip of the caulk tube, maybe that's their problem. The tape just seems like an unnecessary waste of time and material to me. But to each his own.
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Old 02-22-2019, 06:32 PM   #30
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I realize the post was dealing with caulking, not cutting a line. It's not that difficult to CAULK the joint where the wall and crown meet and keep the caulk off the wall. Much easier than cutting in that juncture with paint (and that's not too difficult). Most crown is easier to cut in that a plain old ceiling/wall interface. Many cut way too much off the tip of the caulk tube, maybe that's their problem. The tape just seems like an unnecessary waste of time and material to me. But to each his own.
To me, its a no brainer. Its faster, easier, and its guaranteed a perfect line. I would have no problem with the dollar fifty's worth of tape I use.
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Old 02-22-2019, 06:51 PM   #31
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To me, its a no brainer. Its faster, easier, and its guaranteed a perfect line. I would have no problem with the dollar fifty's worth of tape I use.
I agree that many times ,when painting, taping is faster and easier than cutting in. When it comes to caulking , that's a different story. Let the caulk dry a little too long you run the risk of pulling caulk or leaving a ragged edge. Don't let it dry enough, you run the risk of leaving a ragged edge when you pull the tape. It's just too easy, in most cases, to just run a nice bead of caulk without the worries associated with tape removal. I guess I'm just a better caulker than tape remover. Lord knows I've done enough of both in my time!
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Old 02-22-2019, 10:37 PM   #32
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I agree that many times ,when painting, taping is faster and easier than cutting in. When it comes to caulking , that's a different story. Let the caulk dry a little too long you run the risk of pulling caulk or leaving a ragged edge. Don't let it dry enough, you run the risk of leaving a ragged edge when you pull the tape. It's just too easy, in most cases, to just run a nice bead of caulk without the worries associated with tape removal. I guess I'm just a better caulker than tape remover. Lord knows I've done enough of both in my time!
I'm 100% in agreement with you. The only time we tape for caulk is counter tops...often only because of the variance in the walls.
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Old 02-23-2019, 08:40 PM   #33
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Mr. Smith I have a few questions about this method. Shoot me a message if you can. Thanks!
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Old 02-26-2019, 11:34 PM   #34
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I have done this a few different ways, but the best results were achieved like this:
- Run tape (I used 1" 2020) along the perimeter of the cracks.
- Caulk cracks and try to keep the bead tight.
- Remove the tape while caulk is still wet, and smooth anything that look too ugly. Most of the time re-smoothing isn't necessary on normal size cracks. I also remove tape as I go so the caulk is at its wettest.
- Once dry, run frog tape around perimeter and wet it with a rag to activate the edge lock.
- Paint like normal and de-mask.
This method obviously takes longer and uses more materials, but it's the best way to get a crisp line when additional painting isn't an option.
Good luck!
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