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Old 08-11-2016, 11:32 AM   #1
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Default Concrete floor finish that paint wont stick to

I'm fixing to paint the floor inside our new spray booths with a 2K epoxy or similar. I'm thinking I can add something like a wax that will float to the surface so as not to interfere with adhesion to the concrete yet keep the paint from sticking to the surface. I'm hoping overspray wont stick or at least be easier to clean up at days end

We have 2 65'x18' spray booths that are drive thru. I would like to find a way to keep the floors easy to clean. . . We will use a fire retardant 90 pound paper for cover but with tractor and truck traffic I'm afraid the paper wont last long.

I will use 3M's dirt trap covering for the lights and walls. You can use that on the floor but at 70 cents a square foot I don't want to spend a grand every time we replace it

I'm new here and haven't done an introduction thread. Long story short I've worked in and around the paint business all my fife. I retired from SW in 2011. I worked as an Application Splst and Technologist in one of their national labs in Columbus, Ohio. My specialty was Wood and Composite Building Products. I had equipment to duplicate most any production paint line in the country that I used for training and trouble shooting new coatings before going to the customer as to minimize any down time on their line. The rest is a long story that I will put into an introduction thread soon. . .

Anyway help me out with some ideas or experience you have with similar situations. . .
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:11 PM   #2
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Booth coating? When it gets loaded with paint just peal it up.
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Old 08-11-2016, 01:28 PM   #3
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Booth coat doesn't do well on the floor at least not in our application. We have too much traffic plus the painters crawl around on the floor on a creeper to paint the underside of these vans. There may not be an easy answer.

At least scraping paint off an epoxy floor will be easier than getting it off bare concrete. I've put waxes in coatings before but more for film properties or appearance issues. Not sure if it will help in this situation or not
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Old 08-11-2016, 01:42 PM   #4
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Why not keep it simple and just cover it with cardboard paper it can be easily cleaned up and replaced.
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Old 08-11-2016, 02:08 PM   #5
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Maybe a silicone based clear concrete sealer with a bit of film build? I can't think of much that does stick to it. Other then that the only thing I can think of would be a high gloss epoxy with a good coat of floor wax.
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Old 08-11-2016, 04:20 PM   #6
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Maybe something like this?
http://www.surfacearmor.com/applications/stone/
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Old 08-11-2016, 04:36 PM   #7
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perhaps liquid mask would work if the epoxy/floor is smooth enough to pull it off and you put it on pretty heavy....

Last edited by lilpaintchic; 08-11-2016 at 04:42 PM..
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Old 08-12-2016, 02:04 AM   #8
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perhaps liquid mask would work if the epoxy/floor is smooth enough to pull it off and you put it on pretty heavy....
That's a pretty intriguing idea LPC. I wonder if it would work.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:35 AM   #9
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That's a pretty intriguing idea LPC. I wonder if it would work.
Me too! I'd be willing to give it a go if the conditions were right....
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilpaintchic View Post
perhaps liquid mask would work if the epoxy/floor is smooth enough to pull it off and you put it on pretty heavy....
Quote:
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That's a pretty intriguing idea LPC. I wonder if it would work.
Intriguing yes, but at that point I have to think that Lambrecht's suggestion of heavy paper would just be simpler. It's how I protect the floor of my spray shop and it works pretty well for about half a dozen jobs then up it comes, flip it, and go at it again. I don't even tape the seams except here and there to hold the pieces together. If I wanted to go more "high tech" think I'd try using Ram Board the same way. Plus, RB might be more conducive to using creepers.
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Old 08-12-2016, 01:45 PM   #11
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The problem with cardboard or heavy paper is that OSHA says it must be fire retardant. We are going to use a 90 pound fire retardant craft paper designed for floors of a spray booth. The problem is still the traffic and the creeper wheels. The paper is still around 350 bucks each time we change it. I don't mind once a week but so far we tear up the paper in one afternoon.

The epoxy coating is going to help make it easier to scrape off overspray than regular concrete. That coating itself will be over 600 bucks for each booth so hopefully it will last a year or more.

We will see how the wax addition works and I can keep you posted. Whatever it is it has to be simple easy quick and cheap. Right now the painters are excited about their new paint shop and are willing to try to keep it clean. . . I just hope they feel the same a year from now.
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:14 PM   #12
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Seems like a heavy coat of floor wax or polish would be enough? Something that the paint would lay on instead of the actual floor. Might be too time consuming to strip and apply weekly.

I'd just mop it with Murphy's oil if you have been following some of the threads on here. Apparently it is paint's kryptonite.
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:42 PM   #13
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Honestly, if they are areas specifically designed for spray work to be done, I'd just paint away and vacuum up any paint dust off the floor when each job is completed. The only reason I'm putting down paper in my shop now is because when I retire in a few years, I want the floor to look pretty good instead of all painted up. Otherwise I just wouldn't care.
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:09 AM   #14
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RH, we have mountains of paint on the floor now that has accumulated over the last 30 years. We have scraped, jack hammered and tried just about everything imaginable. Each booth has many gallons (50-100ga)sprayed through it every day and it doesn't take long.
We are hoping the new paint shop will be different. We will be painting in there later this summer.
I like the floor wax comment. . . I'm even thinking about adding PTFE (Teflon) to the floor paint. I'll talk to the SW chemist and see if that is something to consider. Right now I'm just looking for ideas. We can always do what we have always done if push comes to shove but there must be a better way.
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:14 AM   #15
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RH, we have mountains of paint on the floor now that has accumulated over the last 30 years. We have scraped, jack hammered and tried just about everything imaginable. Each booth has many gallons (50-100ga)sprayed through it every day and it doesn't take long.
We are hoping the new paint shop will be different. We will be painting in there later this summer.
I like the floor wax comment. . . I'm even thinking about adding PTFE (Teflon) to the floor paint. I'll talk to the SW chemist and see if that is something to consider. Right now I'm just looking for ideas. We can always do what we have always done if push comes to shove but there must be a better way.
Just don't make it too slick or OSHA will have other issues they will be nailing you for.
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Old 08-15-2016, 11:22 AM   #16
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If this is going to be a long term thing (not moving in a year or two) and it will be getting so much use, why not look into having a raised floor installed with metal grating as the floor and venting system underneath to remove excess spray? A fair cash investment to be sure but an effective solution as well. I believe many new spray booths have this built in as a means to remove contaminants.
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Old 08-15-2016, 12:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
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If this is going to be a long term thing (not moving in a year or two) and it will be getting so much use, why not look into having a raised floor installed with metal grating as the floor and venting system underneath to remove excess spray? A fair cash investment to be sure but an effective solution as well. I believe many new spray booths have this built in as a means to remove contaminants.
I thought about that but the booth design is cross draft actually designed for painting large trucks or busses etc.plus we need a smooth floor to get around on easy while on the creeper. We do have a raised floor in the new mixing room (Paint kitchen) and in the paint storage area.
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