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#21 |
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![]() Try Diamabrush's new deck tooling. Started out with Wagner paint eater, the majority came off, but the diamabrush tooling brought it down to the bare wood. This deck had rust o leum's 10x and a coat of oil stain. Hope this helps.
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#22 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to tnw322 For This Useful Post: | AngieM (06-06-2016) |
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#23 |
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![]() If it takes that Rustoleum 10x stuff off it is definitely something worth looking into! What doesn't peel is a major pita to get off.
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#24 |
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![]() We used the floor prep tool last month to remove asphalt adhesive from oak hardwood. Will use it in two weeks to prep two small offices floors for epoxy. Dimabrush has some great removal and prep tools. All the way up to 16" for use on floor buffers.
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The Following User Says Thank You to straight_lines For This Useful Post: | chriscon (06-19-2016) |
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#25 |
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![]() I turned down a couple of deck jobs today. We don't do them unless we are doing the whole house. And we don't try to be heroes anymore. Did one last fall that was huge, broke my own rule of not doing it since we weren't doing the house, took several cleanings plus renting a floor sander. So much work! Ended up using BM alkyd semi solid stain, their "Classic" line now. Looked great when we were done, but decks are just a lot of work. I'm going for the easy houses now. Call me crazy, but as one of the guys who first trained me said "sometimes painting is easy, sometimes hard". Trying to make it more easy, more profitable, more predictable. As PressurePros said, us stubborn people have had to learn this lesson over and over again. Trying to stick to it this year...wish me luck!
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#26 | |
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After they get tired of the crappy results they get, then they'll be back. This is kind of the mentality that a quality contractor has to take. If he can't make money because his client doesn't want him to the job correctly he is usually better served just to pass on that job. junker1 likes this.
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#27 |
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![]() Does it leave any swirl pattern? Does it have to be sanded after?
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#28 |
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![]() There is a slight swirl pattern, but it's worth it for how quickly it rips coatings off and gets you to good wood!
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The Following User Says Thank You to tnw322 For This Useful Post: | AngieM (06-12-2016) |
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#29 |
Deck restorations
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![]() Good morning. I have a deck that is covered in the deck over product. the horizontals are shot and I will be flipping them over. the verticals and bench seats are in great shape and I want to just go over those with a different product. Can I just use a water based product on those verticals? I usually use SW when I do paint.
steven mendez western maine pressure washing www.westernmainepressurewashing.com |
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#30 | |
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#31 |
Professional Painter
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![]() I also gave up doing decks a few years ago. I used to do them all the time but in my opinion, deck coatings were a much product years ago. I could get a few years from all the decks I did in the past. Today your lucky to get one year out of todays product. Only true oil decking products have been steller in the past. You can keep your waterborne stains, they are the worst. They lay on the surface rather than penetrate into the wood. Worst product for decks IMO. Just like paint products today. Few have improved, but many are not a good as they were in the past.
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#32 |
Deck restorations
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![]() IMO I believe that the penetrating non drying oils work best for deck boards. The problem I find is that the consumer does not want to maintain these deck boards. They call me and expect that after 12 years of neglect I can come in and whip it into shape for 1200 dollars.
I try and tell the customers that all wood needs maintenance and that without some protection it will fail. I try and explain that if they want their wood to look good year after year then there is a maintenance cost involved. But of course that is the last thing they want to hear. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to junker1 For This Useful Post: | AngieM (06-19-2016) |
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#33 | |
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#34 | |
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Any tips on how to not have lap marks with the Storm Hybrid? That is my only problem with it and I can't seem to avoid it. Had 1 contractor tell me he just does 2 coats, storm rep said to add some water to the product or mist the deck with a pump sprayer prior to coating. Any better advice than that?
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#35 |
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![]() @PACman Any advice on above?
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#36 |
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![]() Flip the boards next time
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#37 | |
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#38 |
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![]() I've used a wood brightner on my deck work for years. We have restored a boatload of decks tried many products . I stand by what my experience has shown. Water based deck stains are the worst
And again you may luck out. PACman likes this.
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#39 |
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![]() I swear by a GOOD brightener! I've done some testing with many S/T stains with and without using a brightener. The difference in penetration may or may not be as noticeable as people think it should be, but the difference in how deeper the stain penetrates and how much more uniform the stain "takes" is quite noticeable. Of course the actual quality of the stain makes a big difference. I've done test boards with and without brightener with some Armstrong and Clark stains and it makes a big difference in the final appearance with them.
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#40 |
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![]() I've never had a problem with Flood SWF Solid Stain. I always try to talk people out of spending a ton of money on a deck floor restoration even though I've never had a complaint about Flood Stain which I've used the last 10-12 years. I did my own front balcony deck with it 6 years ago and it is still in mint condition. The boards were pressure treated lumber which I left exposed for a year before staining. I live in Canada, and the winters can be harsh! Maybe Flood stain is different in the hotter climates.
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