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Old 08-04-2013, 01:38 PM   #1
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Default Fastest interior trim oil repaint from antique white to white.

I don't want to sand. I'm sticking with alkyd for quicker results. Would you use cs white and one topcoat or 2 coats of what high hiding brand? Don't really want to bust out the pro classic when basically all the ho is looking for is a color change. Trying to use sw but going for one coat coverage over ppg low luster antique white. Forget the sanding. Ho wants it done fast and cheap. But I don't want to do anything wrong like causing bonding issues.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:50 PM   #2
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I don't want to sand. I'm sticking with alkyd for quicker results. Would you use cs white and one topcoat or 2 coats of what high hiding brand? Don't really want to bust out the pro classic when basically all the ho is looking for is a color change. Trying to use sw but going for one coat coverage over ppg low luster antique white. Forget the sanding. Ho wants it done fast and cheap. But I don't want to do anything wrong like causing bonding issues.
I love taking on jobs where there's no money in it and then spending a bunch of time trying to figure out a fast way to get it done in a quality manner, and have it look good.

Then when its done you're worried the homeowner won't be pleased. And then you might have to do a second coat anyways.

Yeah these are my favorite.
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:54 PM   #3
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I don't want to sand. I'm sticking with alkyd for quicker results. Would you use cs white and one topcoat or 2 coats of what high hiding brand? Don't really want to bust out the pro classic when basically all the ho is looking for is a color change. Trying to use sw but going for one coat coverage over ppg low luster antique white. Forget the sanding. Ho wants it done fast and cheap. But I don't want to do anything wrong like causing bonding issues.
contradiction right there.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:12 PM   #4
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The fastest and cheapest way to do it is to do it right the first time around.

And for the record, I'm not a fan of liquid deglossers. Sand it instead.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:20 PM   #5
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It's ok. What's so horrible about alkyd anyway? I told her it might yellow-didn't care. I told her it might smell-indifferent. I told her cheaper-great.
I've gotten a lot of referrals and difficult as this group has been, for me, can't complain. It's just one of those rooms where it's been so long and needs so much updating, your better off upgrading "half way" than putting the customer into sticker shock for a museum quality finish which really wouldn't be meeting their expectations.

Hopefully, ppg low luster is high hiding, since they're reformulation, and is even still available, haven't used it for 15 years. Time to buy china bristles.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonstruck
The fastest and cheapest way to do it is to do it right the first time around.

And for the record, I'm not a fan of liquid deglossers. Sand it instead.
Not planning on sanding. Ho ain't paying for that. Fast a furious only.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:24 PM   #7
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Did I say I'm finishing with oil???
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:35 PM   #8
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What's your question?
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:38 PM   #9
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What's the fastest way to repaint antique white trim with white alkyd?
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:38 PM   #10
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But I don't want to do anything wrong like causing bonding issues.
don't do it fast and cheap then
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:40 PM   #11
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I haven't done this for years and I'm looking for a good "trim grade", high hiding alkyd that might cover in one coat. Preferably a low-luster or satin.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:40 PM   #12
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What's the fastest way to repaint antique white trim with white alkyd?
I don't know. I'm slow and expensive.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:40 PM   #13
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Try the waterborne alkyd hybrid.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:43 PM   #14
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don't do it fast and cheap then
I used to second coat oil without sanding in between coats all the time. Has this procedure changed??
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:45 PM   #15
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Try the waterborne alkyd hybrid.
I've used this only in the pro classic formulation. Is this available in lower grade?
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:47 PM   #16
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I don't know. I'm slow and expensive.
I really should have said quicker. I believe quality =meeting OR exceeding the customers expectations IMHO.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:53 PM   #17
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I've used this only in the pro classic formulation. Is this available in lower grade?
There's absolutely no money in this job if an extra 40 bucks for a high quality trim paint is too expensive.

My final suggestion: charge more to do a good job. A tertiary benefit is your referrals will be worth your time. Do you really want all your jobs to be like this one? When you get this job done, what do you suppose they will tell their friends about you? "He was cheap".

You gotta look at the big picture.
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Old 08-04-2013, 02:57 PM   #18
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......
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ Paint

I love taking on jobs where there's no money in it and then spending a bunch of time trying to figure out a fast way to get it done in a quality manner, and have it look good.

Then when its done you're worried the homeowner won't be pleased. And then you might have to do a second coat anyways.

Yeah these are my favorite.
Thank you for making this point. When prospective customer tells me they want to spend less and "can't you cover in fewer coats"?, I retort with, "fewer coats takes more skill which ends up costing more money". To make a long story short. Well, if that's not enough, I explain why, some sheens, brands, and colors cover better. Then they throw their hands up and say that's too much information. So sometimes I just walk away and say ill get back to you. If by the time I get home, I've mustarded enough energy to think of a better "way to satisfy" the customer, I'll text them within the hour, with a new proposal. They seem to like that I've not wasted they're time and abandoned the estimate.
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:02 PM   #20
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I don't know. Doing a light sanding to assure adhesion is not all that time consuming. I don't think I've ever had an HO tell me they wouldn't pay for proper prep - including sanding - once I explained to them what was necessary in order to do it right. I'm thinking that perhaps you under bid this one big time and are now looking for a way to salvage the situation and get out as fast and cheaply as you can.

If I'm wrong, and you sincerely want to do it right so you don't have issues, give it a light sanding, wipe it down with thinner, then apply a topcoat of BM Satin Impervo. Not the cheapest product but if you want to stay with an alkyd, it may be your best bet for decent coverage.
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