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Old 12-28-2018, 11:29 AM   #21
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this;
https://www.scuffmaster.com/scrub-tough-max/
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:34 PM   #22
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Default BM CorotechWaterborne Precat eggshell and semi

I just had a talk with my local BM guru, Will, regarding using Scuff-X on some condo door repaints. He said that it resists scuffing really well, but does not hold up under extensive washing. He recommended Corotech Pre-Catalyzed Waterborne Epoxy in eggshell or semi-gloss. He mentioned a contractor who is going around refurbishing Chicagoland YMCAs and that he is using this Corotech product extensively with very good results.

https://jclicht.com/wp-content/uploa...xyEggshell.jpg

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vP0AA...9vy/s-l300.jpg

file:///C:/Users/LNV/Downloads/20170706%20Corotech%20V342_TDS%20EN%20OKF.pdf

I haven't been able to Google anything about Corotech by searching for "paint talk corotech" on Google. Perhaps someone here has used it and can comment.

futtyos

Last edited by futtyos; 12-28-2018 at 12:37 PM.. Reason: Forgot some info
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:43 PM   #23
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Default Scuffmaster where to buy

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Looks interesting. I have emailed them for more info.

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Old 12-28-2018, 01:18 PM   #24
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whatever you do, don't use Superpaint. At least upgrade to Duration. The only thing super about superpaint is the mark-up SW gets on it.
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:11 PM   #25
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Thank you to everyone for all of the help! I did the job yesterday with a helper and it turned out great!
Using SuperPaint was a horrible idea given to me by a friend who has been painting for 40 years, but never really commercial... I quickly decided against it..

Here is what I did based off of everyone's advice. Thanks again!

Scuffed the walls with medium grit sandpaper sponge

Krud Kutter Original (Not deglosser) with a maroon scotch brite pad

Primed with SW extreme bond everywhere

Painted with PI WB Alkyd Urethane Semi Gloss (which didn't smell hardly at all)

Thank you again for an awesome introduction to paint talk!
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Old 01-02-2019, 02:27 PM   #26
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I've been faced with the same situation, and have used a Direct to Metal (DTM).

Works great for adhesion, and will also stick to the metal cabinets.

I'm not able to post links, but research sherwin williams pro industrial dtm

jason moorhouse
moorhousecoating.com
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:00 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaPainter724 View Post
Honestly, I'm @lilpaintchic. I do locker rooms constantly, and there's no reason to go so far. A very light sand down is more than needed and then just hit it with a precat epoxy from SW or whoever. Ive gone back to locker rooms we've done a decade ago with no problems. Hell, half the time, that's all they spec for. For one thing, being brick alone gives you a mechanical adhesion advantage, then a light scuff down gives you abrasion and something like precat epoxy should give you chemical adhesion, so you've essentially hit all 3 of the main aspects of adhesion.

Now, if you really want to make it stick, you could do a 2 part system like we use a lot. I'm a big fan of PPGs Aquapon which is incredible for a water based system. Stinks a bit initially but the smell clears out after say an hour or so. No priming required and no abrasion required.
I like aquapon and it holds up in wet areas. The tile clad latex from sw is also very similar to the aquapon and is very durable.
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