Multiple extension ladders on a hill. - Page 3 - Paint Talk - Professional Painting Contractors Forum
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:40 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole34
heres me on a 40' black tip with a section of 24' chained to it .....ladders are actually pretty damn safe if you know what your doin. almost impossible to kick out if set correctly an most accidents happen due to human error
I like it. This way I wouldn't have to buy any more than a blue 32 for high points. I could attach the 20 to the top of 32 for these parts. How did you attach? Always wanted to do this. Really don't want anything more than a 32 right now. The only limitation would be if I planned on hiring 2 or 3 guys, in the future the blue tip would have to go.
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:17 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExcelPaintingCo

How is a lift going to work if it's on a hill side? Any lift I have ever used requires near level ground to lift. They also weigh about 12,000lbs so make sure you at least put some plywood on the lawn.

I know how you feel, I have done this stuff solo before. Necessity sometimes trumps common sense. However, I feel much more comfortable if I've got another person around to call for help if bad things happen.

Good luck and be safe!
Had 3 paragraphs typed and it wouldnt send so I'll be short now.

What's the best jlg to reach across the house so I may not even need plywood? Would it be a 12k pounder?
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:58 PM   #43
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Had 3 paragraphs typed and it wouldnt send so I'll be short now.

What's the best jlg to reach across the house so I may not even need plywood? Would it be a 12k pounder?
You have to figure that a gas/diesel 40' aerial straight boom is going to ba around 14,000-18,000 lbs. I just priced a 60 footer and it is 25,000 lbs.. Either way, you'll want plywood.

I did a large project last year where 80% of the job had to be accessed on the grass. I had a 40' and 60', and any where that a wheel sat on the grass, you could see it sink and squeeze the life out of those blades. We actually were successful in maintaining the grass integrity thanks to the plywood. I believe we were using 5/8".
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:23 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by ExcelPaintingCo View Post
Multiple ladders + hill + plank + inexperience + being alone = Danger!

Is it really worth it?
And now you can add chaining a 24' to a 40' to the equation......
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:59 PM   #45
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I was talking to a friend yesterday who works for AGC as an instructor for OSHA certification classes. I asked him what a OSHA drive-by would cost a guy using a 24' chained to a 40' . He said about 70k.....
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:17 PM   #46
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Looking back at some old threads and thought I'd give this one some closure. This job ended up taking ten days. I used one 28 foot ladder and laddered the soffit and facia three times-one slow dry oil primer-two coats resilience satin. The house had pinkish red brick with yellowing white oil and the new bright white latex made the whole house pop. The 4 year old gutters were black from shingle run-off caused by plastic leaf guards and excessive "shingle overhang". Ripped out all the leaf guards which weren't needed anyway because there were no gutters. The stabilizer was a great help.

Can't believe I actually considered and worried about a lift and using multiple ladders and just bit the bullet and went for it with one 28 and a 24. It was actually my most enjoyable job of the summer. Used to working with a crew. I didn't mind doing this one solo but couldn't believe how addicted I was to working with a crew.

Anyway, it turned out great. The only regret was painting the storm doors with latex or even painting them at all. I wish I had sprayed the with rattle cans. The ho was very pleased and gave me a $200 tip.

Thanks for all the posts on this one.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:32 PM   #47
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I am with Scully, if you can get all they way around the project, rent a lift - they pay! If you can not get around the project, it may be better to ladder. If setting up on a hill, make certain ladder feet teeth are down and secure.At an angle, when you are at the top of the ladder working the bottom will tend to kick out. Bring a shovel,I have often excavated a proper angle, then staked both legs with re-bar or cement foundation stakes, to make sure they aren't going anywhere.
If you are using picks and ladder jacks make sure they are rated type 1A and matched to displace the weight evenly. Always a good idea to have help setting up and tearing down. If they are to be up overnight I always secure the pick to ladders and jacks with ratchet straps and when possible to the structure.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:54 PM   #48
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It muct be warm where you are. At HD they have a tow behind lift. The best part is that it's self leveing for hilly part. If you can tow behind car/truck try it. In confined areas, I use a ATV to tow it around. I think the toung weight is 350 or so. We use it when my old ATT boom truck can't get in. Lot cheaper than getting a
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:17 AM   #49
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It's freezing. I'm just recapping some old posts from summertime.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:27 AM   #50
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Woops hit send accidently.
Your profile says you hang too. I used to hang, paint, commercial, residential, new construction, repaints. Then strictly rrp mostly exterior. Now I want more other stuff just to stay busy.

Anyway. Miss the hanging. Less fumes. I wanted to send a pm but you aren't aloud to get them I guess because you haven't gotten ten posts yet??
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:14 AM   #51
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I'm just amazed at some responses here......wow...
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:17 AM   #52
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I'm just amazed at some responses here......wow...

I've been hearing a lot of people express amazement lately.



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