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Possible paint failure

6K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  Gough 
#1 ·
I have a feeling my coating I'd going to fail.

This was my order of process.
Scrape door
Palm sand door with 100 grit paper.
Hand sand surround with 100 grit, hand sand door with 100
Prime door and surround with cover stain
Spray garage door.
Hand sand cover stain with 120
Brush and roll door, then surround, then fascia and posts.
Spray garage door.
Quick snack
Finish fascia, and posts
Paint surround
Brush and roll door
Finish garage door trim.

I saw a few bubbles when putting the hardware back on the door.

I used Pitt tech pre mixed black satin
 

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#8 ·
I am committing to once again giving all primers an overnight dry before top coating - regardless of what it says on the can. Same with stains.

I hadn't had a paint issue for years until I recently top coated too soon and I paid for it. Fortunately, it was a small job and didn't affect the bottom line much but it was still an unwelcome complication. So, I have decided to (re)learn from it.
 
#10 ·
i'm in agreement with rh on this one. Generally i'll give a water based primer a few hours and i'll always give coverstain/oil primer an overnight sit.

....




i am committing to once again giving all primers an overnight dry before top coating - regardless of what it says on the can. Same with stains.

I hadn't had a paint issue for years until i recently top coated too soon and i paid for it. Fortunately, it was a small job and didn't affect the bottom line much but it was still an unwelcome complication. So, i have decided to (re)learn from it.
:(
 
#11 ·
I hate to be the bearer of bad news yet again, but coverstain is one of the cheapest oil based primers you can buy for a good reason. You may have been using it for years and never had a problem but there have been three product changes requiring MSDS updates since January 2015. They have had to constantly change it to keep the cost down to where they can make a profit selling it to the box stores, and since they are selling it for the same retail price it's been for 25 years....... well it doesn't take a genius to figure out what gong on.
 
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#13 ·
If the existing coating was delaminating, it needs to be removed prior to priming. The moisture from any paint or primer will only cause further problems as there is air between the coats and as it heats up (sunshine) The air will try to escape. This is likely the source of your blisters....sorry for the bad news. :( you may be able to sand the blisters down after it drys, throw a little bondo on it and collect your $ NO WARRANTY. And make sure the sun is not beating on the door while you're painting it. Time it so that the sun will have moved past that point so that it can thoroughly dry overnight. If the sun is beating on it (it's black and absorbs heat) during the dry process that, too can produce blisters as it forms a quick skin but traps moisture beneath it. Good luck.
 
#15 ·
Choosing a new color for your home’s front door can be overwhelming whether you’re going for a fresh coat of neutral or taking the plunge with a high-contrast hue. Tape a few swatches (ours came from a midcentury paint palette) to your door. The colors will appear quite different outdoors than they do inside your home.

Consider the other colors in your home and its surroundings. In our case, the natural greens in the plants surrounding the entryway served as inspiration, as well as the gray undertones in the flagstone accent and the home’s siding and roof. Weathered flagstone in the sidewalk has a natural, mossy patina that complemented the green colors in the most flattering way.

Remove Hardware and Prep Door
It’s easier to achieve a professional-looking finish if you take the time to remove the locks and knobs. You can tape them off and paint around them, but it’s not the best approach. If you’re considering new hardware, now is the time to get it.

Apply Primer
Depending on the final color, you may want to get the primer tinted. By doing so, you’ll probably need fewer coats of paint. However, we used just white primer and two coats of green paint (about 1 quart of paint).

When the primer has dried, run the sandpaper lightly over the surface to level out any irregularities in the primed finish. Use the rag to clean off the sanding dust.

Paint Edges and Details
Begin by brushing inset or trim details by hand with a paintbrush so that you can lay an even base coat. Use the brush to feather out the edges of the paint so that there are no drips.

Roll Paint on Flat Surfaces
Use a small 6” roller with a low-nap texture (or a high-density foam roller) to apply a smooth, consistent paint application across all of the flat surfaces, including the edges of the door.

Use Brush for a Hand-Painted Finish
Low-nap and foam rollers are ideal because they leave minimal stippling on the surface. But to achieve a really nice finish, use a paintbrush to lightly brush over the final coat of paint while it’s still wet to level out roller marks and leave a smooth “hand-painted” texture.

When the paint has had a full day to dry and cure, reattach the locks and knobs.
 
#20 ·
Yeah they have a couple. A-100 exterior wood primer comes to mind. But that is the idea behind long oil alkyds. They take longer to dry but they work better on bare wood. The problem stems from consumers having the instant gratification mentality that makes them think they can have a painter do a "quick" paint job and have it last. It's marketing Bull5hit. But, a long oil primer applied in the morning, the door left to dry a good 12 hours or so, then being able to close the door for the night and apply a topcoat the next morning seems to work pretty well around here. Again, it does take longer and of course it is more expensive but it will last a lot longer.

If the OP is buying from a PPG company store or even a dealer they should be able to get the Sunproof Exterior Alkyd primer which is a long oil alkyd. Pretty much the same as A-100. Ideally you could use California Troubleshooter alkyd which is actually the only fast dry alkyd that works well on exterior wood and has any long term durability. I am sure there are others on the market and I am well aware that it probably isn't available where the op is. I believe Maddog primers have one as well.

You CAN as I have seen done before tape around the edge of the face of the door where the door contacts the fame or the weather strip and prime with the long oil. Leave the tape on so the door can be closed without the primer sticking to the frame or weatherstrip. Then come back the next day, remove the tape, and topcoat. You will have a small edge around the door with no primer but because that edge is not fully exposed to the elements it typically doesn't create a problem.
 
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