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Old 08-28-2016, 03:32 PM   #341
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When just doing a few doors I work mainly out of one gallon cans of paint. Since one gallon lids typically don't have holes in them for inserting the siphon tube and stinger of my airless, I just take a one gallon Ziploc bag and cut off a three inch (or so) length of the closed end of the bag (from the corner across the bottom). The bag fits perfectly over the can (minus handle) and the cut off corner provides an opening big enough to insert your S-tube and stinger into the paint. Whether spraying outside or inside it helps keep crap out of the paint and keeps it from developing a skin in hot weather. Also, the stinger and S-tube are easier to clean off when done since the paint hasn't been able to dry on them much.
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Old 08-28-2016, 05:22 PM   #342
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When just doing a few doors I work mainly out of one gallon cans of paint. Since one gallon lids typically don't have holes in them for inserting the siphon tube and stinger of my airless, I just take a one gallon Ziploc bag and cut off a three inch (or so) length of the closed end of the bag (from the corner across the bottom). The bag fits perfectly over the can (minus handle) and leaves an opening big enough to insert your S-tube and stinger into the paint. Whether spraying outside or inside it helps keep crap out of the paint and keeps it from developing a skin in hot weather. Also, the stinger and S-tube are easier to clean off when done since the paint hasn't been able to dry on them much.
Along the same line.....wrap the stinger in plastic from top to 2 inches from bottom. Then completely wrap the plastic in tape tightly, sealing the top and bottom edges so the plastc is fully covered and sealed. When it's time to clean up run a razor blade from top to bottom cutting tape and plastic. The stinger will be completely clean except the bottom inch.
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:30 PM   #343
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Some of you guys have some good tips. THANK YOU.

I've seen a lot of you talking about using caulking so you have straight lines.Don't misunderstand this,I don't mean to sound arrogant or rude,but if we are professionals shouldn't most of us be able to cut a straight line. If I am missing something please tell me.

Here is my tips: I use shower caps to put over my 5's when getting back in it the next day or on breaks and when I'm doing exterior and the 5 is not being used at the moment. The elastic on them gives it a good seal.

When painting baseboard I use stencil boards to hold down the carpet. Just slide between base and carpet. You can also cut a poster board to use it too.

I use brush savers you get at S.W. or H.D.,until job is done, but I put brush in sandwich bag and then in the brush saver.

I use beaded safety tarps to cover hard wood floors and tiles and run a 6" masking paper around the room next to the base and tape it every couple feet in case my tarp has a gap.
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Old 08-29-2016, 05:52 AM   #344
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Some of you guys have some good tips. THANK YOU.

I've seen a lot of you talking about using caulking so you have straight lines.Don't misunderstand this,I don't mean to sound arrogant or rude,but if we are professionals shouldn't most of us be able to cut a straight line. If I am missing something please tell me.

Here is my tips: I use shower caps to put over my 5's when getting back in it the next day or on breaks and when I'm doing exterior and the 5 is not being used at the moment. The elastic on them gives it a good seal.

When painting baseboard I use stencil boards to hold down the carpet. Just slide between base and carpet. You can also cut a poster board to use it too.

I use brush savers you get at S.W. or H.D.,until job is done, but I put brush in sandwich bag and then in the brush saver.

I use beaded safety tarps to cover hard wood floors and tiles and run a 6" masking paper around the room next to the base and tape it every couple feet in case my tarp has a gap.
What happened to the lid?
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:52 AM   #345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007 Dave View Post
Some of you guys have some good tips. THANK YOU.

I've seen a lot of you talking about using caulking so you have straight lines.Don't misunderstand this,I don't mean to sound arrogant or rude,but if we are professionals shouldn't most of us be able to cut a straight line. If I am missing something please tell me.

Here is my tips: I use shower caps to put over my 5's when getting back in it the next day or on breaks and when I'm doing exterior and the 5 is not being used at the moment. The elastic on them gives it a good seal.

When painting baseboard I use stencil boards to hold down the carpet. Just slide between base and carpet. You can also cut a poster board to use it too.

I use brush savers you get at S.W. or H.D.,until job is done, but I put brush in sandwich bag and then in the brush saver.

I use beaded safety tarps to cover hard wood floors and tiles and run a 6" masking paper around the room next to the base and tape it every couple feet in case my tarp has a gap.
Try cutting a STRAIGHT line between a textured surface or block/brick etc and smooth trim/window, or a transition between 2 colors on a textured surface. etc. ....now do it with caulk. You'll experience the difference for yourself.
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:50 PM   #346
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What a great thread. I'm sorry I missed it for all of this time (as it was started a very long time ago!) But I'm glad to see that I do a lot of those things mentioned here. I guess it makes me feel "legit." And then there are about 100 things where I'm thinking DOH! - of course! Why am I not doing that? So thanks to all who have contributed.

On the subject of tape...and caulk...I need further education from those who do it.

I was "raised" on a steady diet of "are you kidding me?" about using tape. I spent years as an underling/apprentice on many paint crews and never saw a roll of tape. (And this was not slop work - it was great, high-quality work). I have never used it myself - at least for making lines. It gets in the way so that I can't see my line and it doesn't really make lines. Its fine for band-aids or the occasional coverage of something hard to clean near a cut line or helping hold down some plastic someplace... But for lines?

But I know that those of you who use it successfully are not idiots. I get the idea of running the tape and then the bead of caulk. But as I imagine it, all I can see is the entire thing peeling back off of the wall or whatever when I pull the tape. Are you telling me that the caulk just neatly separates with the tape? No pull off or uneven tearing? I'm skeptical which I figure means that I don't quite get how to do it the right way. I can't say I'd use it much as a method - I enjoy the "craft" of cutting lines - but it would certainly come in handy at times.

As for "tips" at the moment, one that I don't recall seeing in the thread is that Krud Kutter works very well for cleaning up old, dried latex. It's not something you want to drink or get in your eyes, but its relatively benign stuff that is water based, biodegrades and doesn't stink up a place like a lot of solvents do. Soak whatever you want overnight and old latex will turn to jelly. It's not one-time use either. I have a 5 in the garage with a fairly strong mix in it. Its all cloudy after the first use, but will continue to clean even then. I just drop stuff in as needed. And FWIW, I recently de-greased a car's cylinder head with it. Crazy stuff for a water-based, biodegradable product.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:07 PM   #347
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Try cutting a STRAIGHT line between a textured surface or block/brick etc and smooth trim/window, or a transition between 2 colors on a textured surface. etc. ....now do it with caulk. You'll experience the difference for yourself.
Ok I understand now about the texture walls. Thank you.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:21 PM   #348
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@Joe67 I too try to perfect my cut in lines but nothing will compare to the razor sharp line of a well placed tape/caulk line. Especially on bull nose ceilings and corners. The trick is to only smear a small amount of caulk (or paint of that color) on the tape edge. Just enough to seal it. I've never had paint pull up with it when removed.

As for Krud Kutter...YES! I recently made this discovery too. It's been a fantastic surface prep for trim and doors to be painted. Be sure to rinse it though.

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Old 08-29-2016, 11:26 PM   #349
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What happened to the lid?
That's a fair question. I roll out of 5's. So if you do job that might take 4 gallons or less you won't have a lid. (Yes I have lids in my truck), but you still have to wrap you roller. or if you use a lid and pull the little lid hole out and the roller handle sticks out you still have a small gap. on a hot day it may skim over a little. I know you can always put a wet rag over that gap. A shower cap is just faster. Does this make sense?

I also use a shower cap to put over exterior porch lights and lights attached to the house.
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:10 AM   #350
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@Joe67 I too try to perfect my cut in lines but nothing will compare to the razor sharp line of a well placed tape/caulk line. Especially on bull nose ceilings and corners. The trick is to only smear a small amount of caulk (or paint of that color) on the tape edge. Just enough to seal it. I've never had paint pull up with it when removed.

As for Krud Kutter...YES! I recently made this discovery too. It's been a fantastic surface prep for trim and doors to be painted. Be sure to rinse it though.
I will give the tape/caulk a whirl at some point.

As for rinsing Krud Kutter - yes! What I always found weird was that it says on the bottle that it leaves no residue. Yet, it so obviously seems too. It leaves some kind of slime that does not come off easily. So yes - rinse liberally.
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:56 AM   #351
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Krud Kutter, regular or deglossing version, is pretty much the only cleaner I use for interior work these days.
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Old 08-30-2016, 03:56 AM   #352
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Krud Kutter, regular or deglossing version, is pretty much the only cleaner I use for interior work these days.
I don't use the de glosser but the regular , I have for years now. Always have a gallon in the garage
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Old 08-30-2016, 11:41 AM   #353
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When just doing a few doors I work mainly out of one gallon cans of paint. Since one gallon lids typically don't have holes in them for inserting the siphon tube and stinger of my airless, I just take a one gallon Ziploc bag and cut off a three inch (or so) length of the closed end of the bag (from the corner across the bottom). The bag fits perfectly over the can (minus handle) and the cut off corner provides an opening big enough to insert your S-tube and stinger into the paint. Whether spraying outside or inside it helps keep crap out of the paint and keeps it from developing a skin in hot weather. Also, the stinger and S-tube are easier to clean off when done since the paint hasn't been able to dry on them much.


When doing just a few, why not just brush them??
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:05 PM   #354
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When doing just a few, why not just brush them??
Depends on the doors. If older and previously painted, or, they are the embossed fiberglass doors, then a microfiber roller and a brush are likely fine. But if they have been previously sprayed, are being painted for the first time, or are smooth paneled metal, fiberglass, or MDF, then they will get sprayed.
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:22 AM   #355
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Caulk/tape debate: I will use tape ran around 1/16'' inch from top rear edge of base and/or casing and clear latex caulk in the gap. While still wet paint my latex walls. Pull the tape wet carefully and the two products dry simultaneously I've found without problems. If I am delicate with the brush and the gap isn't two large or wavering, this method has provided near perfect results. A dry method of this I use it bringing the caulk edge to zero right where it meets the tape, let it dry and the caulk rarely comes with the tape.

Yet to go through the whole thread to see if its been said but on remodels or some more forgiving jobs (using latex) I will just sheet my pot with plastic and a ring of tape, making sure to circle the brush handle at least once before sticking it to the pot magnet, then put it all the the fridge on a paper towel. Hasn't given me any trouble yet and the cold air keeps it fresh. In the morning I give it a few minutes to warm up (sip coffee) and get right into it.

In the equipment category, it takes an extremely hot day for me to not wear my http://www.armedworkwear.com/products/product/white-work-pants.php

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Old 09-01-2016, 01:47 AM   #356
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Probably a well known tip....but heating your bomb cans (texture, primer, whatever) under running hot water or leave em sitting on or in a heat vent for a while will give you a much nicer (finer) spray pattern.....especially when the outdoor temps drop.

And I wet the edges of my pot or bucket and just stick the plastic to it as close to the surface of the paint as possible. This eliminates as much air as possible from my product. Air dries paint and contaminates the pot. Sometimes I just lay it straight to the surface of the paint. It can't dry if there's no air. No need to tape it either. If it's stuck to the wet paint on the sides it has the same effect as having it taped.i dunno....little things that I do that work for me.
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:14 AM   #357
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One thing that I have found important is keeping mineral spirits in our airless sprayers if they plan to sit for more than seven days this keeps the inside of rig from rusting out and keeps maintenance cost down.
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Old 09-27-2016, 04:44 AM   #358
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So I was wanting to revive the thread called Tips, Tricks, and Tools. https://www.painttalk.com/f2/tips-tricks-tools-19249/
Because it's pretty hilarious, and ingenius, and classic Paint Talk. Look it up.

I love the wire brush holder RH!!

But it seems the thread is too old to reply now. So I'll add in my little MacGyver brush here I made to brush prime the grooves on 230 cedar t&g boards. The fronts and back primer had dried already.
It was 4-5 times more effective than a 2.5-3" sash and it's disposable, or keepable. Used an electric stapler to join 3- 3" chip brushes, which worked killer. Just slide back and forth and done. I think it could be good on t-111 grooves, maybe even flat wide stuff who knows.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:57 AM   #359
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Brilliant! Did you use stir sticks there or??
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:14 PM   #360
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Brilliant! Did you use stir sticks there or??
I was thinking of using stir sticks but I think I used scrap strips of wood I had a surplus of.
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