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Old 03-21-2019, 12:55 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stelzerpaintinginc. View Post
While I appreciate the suggestions, I'm pretty sure any sort of stain, acrylic or alkyd, wouldn't be what I'm looking for. Alkyd stains are awesome on rough, raw wood, not so much on smooth wood with several coats of latex/acrylic paint. They cannot penetrate, they'd lack the adhesion capabilities given the fact that they'd need to stick to smooth paint, they can't provide a protective film at this point, they'd show every scuff and essentially would be a flat finish, and they'd harbor & grow mildew & mold easier & quicker given the amount of linseed oil they contain. I don't think even Storm System would recommend their alkyd stain for this application, and even their data sheet for their alkyd stain states, "Surfaces must be clean and free from all other coatings that may prevent penetration."
That would certainly include the film-forming latex/acrylic coatings presently on the wood, which I have neither the desire nor the budget to remove.

Breakthrough 250 is on my short list of 3 candidates as of now, but still looking to see if there's a better option. I fully understand that any coating at this point will have a somewhat limited life-span and will require some degree of maintenance every few years. If the patio furniture didn't hold such a strong sentimental value to this lady, I think she would've taken my original advice when I suggested to look into buying new sets made of something other than wood with a much more durable factory finish.

Thanks again, and please feel free to give other suggestions if you got em.
Stains:
Film Forming
or
Penetrating

Oil is typically considered a penetrating stain
Waterborne is typically considered a film-forming stain.

Anything water based WILL FAIL on horizontal surfaces.
It is inevitable. Because...water sits on these surfaces and compromises the finish. Moisture is eventually able to enter the wood from underneath, in corners, though screws, etc... The water is pulled through the grain, forcing the film-forming stains "off" the wood. Once in the wood, the water needs a way out, and excessive moisture causes the paint to lose adhesion.

This is in part why oil is better than water based stains, as it is "in" the wood, and not "on" the wood. Oil naturally stands up to moisture better than water-based (water and oil don't mix).
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:38 PM   #22
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Default repainting furniture

if cost is not a concern why wouldn't they buy new furniture.........
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Old 03-26-2019, 12:05 PM   #23
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if cost is not a concern why wouldn't they buy new furniture.........
I addressed this in post #12...

" If the patio furniture didn't hold such a strong sentimental value to this lady, I think she would've taken my original advice when I suggested to look into buying new sets made of something other than wood with a much more durable factory finish. "
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Old 03-26-2019, 07:46 PM   #24
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I remember a job we were on where the wealthy homeowners had their lawn furniture picked up by some outfit that was going to spray some coating on them similar to bed liner. This was wrought iron furniture!
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:33 PM   #25
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A great return customer of mine has asked me to paint her benches, chairs & tables. All have been painted before and most are showing signs of cracking & flaking after the last paint-job less than 2 yrs ago by their former painter. I've already cautioned her as to the possibility of being somewhat limited in guaranteeing any sort of claim of longevity without stripping everything first, but I think we're already at the threshold as far as how much her husband is willing to agree to with just a cleaning, sand, de-gloss, spot-prime, & re-paint, (just over $3,000 including transporting everything to/from shop).

I do have some products in mind, but wanted to see if anyone has had any great success with a particular product used for a similar application; exterior wood furniture which will be exposed to sun, weather, & the occasional splashes from the pool. They're painted white now and will be painted white again. Interested in the very best product as far as durability and longevity. Cost is not a factor.

Any suggestions?
"Recommendations for bulletproof paint on wood patio furniture"
...? what is automotive, Alex
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:38 PM   #26
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"Recommendations for bulletproof paint on wood patio furniture"
...? what is automotive, Alex

Automotive and industrial 2K type paints are not recommended for exterior wood. Too hard, no flex, will crack and peel.
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Old 03-26-2019, 09:53 PM   #27
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Automotive and industrial 2K type paints are not recommended for exterior wood. Too hard, no flex, will crack and peel.
Yes. I was thinking about that,but what about bumpers, they are made from flexible materials, as far as plastic on them goes I guess.
Would be interesting to experiment tho and paint one piece with it and "watch it" over couple or more years.
But perhaps wicker is to flimsy. Solid pieces of wood like a bench or a table.
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Old 03-27-2019, 01:21 PM   #28
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The patio furniture was finished over a week ago. I'll be transporting everything from shop later today back to customer's house. First I'm gonna grab my pencils and perform some hardness tests & I'll also test for adhesion.
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Old 03-27-2019, 01:42 PM   #29
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Bulletproof as in the bank teller glass that was used as a window screen on one of my projects?

Last edited by Alchemy Redux; 09-06-2019 at 12:48 PM..
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Old 03-27-2019, 03:53 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by stelzerpaintinginc. View Post
The patio furniture was finished over a week ago. I'll be transporting everything from shop later today back to customer's house. First I'm gonna grab my pencils and perform some hardness tests & I'll also test for adhesion.
What product did you use on it?
Primer, no primer. Any other prep? Some rinsing off the dust?, with just plain water or with some cleaner?
Spill the beans, please. lol

Also post some nudes, (of the furniture of course).
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Last edited by EveryDay; 03-27-2019 at 03:58 PM.. Reason: Requesting nudes.
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Old 03-27-2019, 09:35 PM   #31
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I painted a bunch of wooden rocking chairs , and furniture about 15 years ago for a client for outside on their deck , with Porters Glyptex oil enamel high gloss . Believe it or not it held up for over 5 years in the sun and rain .
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Old 03-27-2019, 10:24 PM   #32
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Bulletproof as in the bank teller glass that was used as a window screen on one of my projects?
Wow.
So is robbing banks your side gig? Lol
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Old 03-27-2019, 10:32 PM   #33
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The patio furniture was finished over a week ago. I'll be transporting everything from shop later today back to customer's house. First I'm gonna grab my pencils and perform some hardness tests & I'll also test for adhesion.
Hey don't leave us in the dark! What product did you end up going with?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:22 AM   #34
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Wow.
So is robbing banks your side gig? Lol
Not a bank robber although Iíve been accused of breaking a few clientís piggy banks before as some of you probably have too...

Iím not too up on whatís hot and whatís not for exterior paint-grade finishes to offer advice or opinions here but was wondering how FPE Hollandlac would work for such an application? I do have to look at an outdoor seating set in a few minutes and was seeking a bulletproof option as well. I was hoping to see how the OP made out..
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:35 PM   #35
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Not a bank robber although Iíve been accused of breaking a few clientís piggy banks before as some of you probably have too...

Iím not too up on whatís hot and whatís not for exterior paint-grade finishes to offer advice or opinions here but was wondering how FPE Hollandlac would work for such an application? I do have to look at an outdoor seating set in a few minutes and was seeking a bulletproof option as well. I was hoping to see how the OP made out..
Here is very interesting article on it.
"Battle for the Front Door: Benjamin Moore vs. Fine Paints of Europe"
https://www.dursopainting.com/single...ints-of-Europe
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Old 03-28-2019, 12:41 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchemy Redux View Post
Not a bank robber although Iíve been accused of breaking a few clientís piggy banks before as some of you probably have too...

Iím not too up on whatís hot and whatís not for exterior paint-grade finishes to offer advice or opinions here but was wondering how FPE Hollandlac would work for such an application? I do have to look at an outdoor seating set in a few minutes and was seeking a bulletproof option as well. I was hoping to see how the OP made out..
For some reason OP is not sharing with us what product he used.
My suspicion is that he decided to go with Behr paint and now is ashamed to admit to it
for the fear of being 'judged'. lol.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:18 PM   #37
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Default Finished Painting Patio Furniture

I ended up using SW's Multi Surface Acrylic. I'll post better pics when I return to their home, (since I'll be starting their kitchen in a few weeks), but it was raining hard yesterday, and I was completely burned out after hauling all their furniture from the street up a 250' driveway that's about at a 45-degree slope. I'll also search for the before pics, since after shots are hard to appreciate if you never saw what they looked like before. Most were cracking & peeling primarily in between boards & slats, & I concluded the reason for such early failure of the last paint job was likely due to insufficient prep of these hard-to-reach surfaces.

THE PROCESS:
-Removed each piece from trailer after first picking them up, hosed it off, applied cleaning agents via pump sprayer, let dwell for a few min, scrubbed every inch with maroon Scotch-brite pads, rinsed off, moved them to shop to dry for 2 days. Cleaning products used was a little bleach, (approx 1.5% by volume), Krud Kutter, Awesome Orange, & a few squirts of Gain dish soap.

-While drying, I screwed some screws into the underneath side of each leg so that everything would be propped up off the spraying surface during application.

-Once dry, I took each piece out, used my Bahco Scraper with delta & round blades to scrape loose paint between slats & contours, sanded with 150 and/or 220 grit in the slats, sanded everything with sponge, aired em off, tacked, caulked a few cracks, spot-primed raw wood.

-Set up a spray area of about 75' x 50', turned all furniture upside-down, sprayed bottom, by the time I got to the last piece, I was able to flip em over and sprayed the top.

-Next day, aired em off again, quick scuff-sand with sponge to top-sides of everything to take off any rough dusting of sprayed paint that blew through slats, aired again, turned upside down, sprayed, turned upright, sprayed.

Recommendations for bulletproof paint on wood patio furniture-img_1428.jpg

Recommendations for bulletproof paint on wood patio furniture-img_1425.jpg

Recommendations for bulletproof paint on wood patio furniture-img_1424.jpg

Recommendations for bulletproof paint on wood patio furniture-img_1429.jpg

Recommendations for bulletproof paint on wood patio furniture-img_1430.jpg


I didn't reduce the paint at all, but I did heat it up to about 90 degrees. Place a single gallon of paint in a 5, remove plastic opening from the 5 gal lid, stick hair dryer in, turn on. Recommendations for bulletproof paint on wood patio furniture-hair-dryer.jpg

Used a thermometer to check paint temp. Heating the paint essentially gives the flow we're all looking for without compromising the integrity of the paint by thinning it. For every degree you heat it beyond 70įF, it's about the equivalent to thinning 1%. I also strained all paint. Even with all that though, I was thoroughly unimpressed by the less-than glassy feel the MSA produced. Used my little Graco GX 19 with 310 FFLP tip. MSA wasn't my first choice, but due to a lack of availability of BT 250, MSA was what was used. Still feels nice to the touch, just not silky smooth. Customer was thrilled though, so that's really all that matters.

Before transporting, I removed screws from underneath & installed new rubber feet on everything, hoping to increase longevity of pieces by preventing them from being in direct contact with the ground & water.

Name:  patio furniture feet.jpg
Views: 74
Size:  3.3 KB


Total projected time including transport to/from: 34.5hrs
Actual time spent: 36hrs, but that included installing the rubber feet, which isn't anything I considered initially, just decided to provide as an extra at no charge.
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Old 03-28-2019, 04:03 PM   #38
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Very nice work and very nice post stelzerpaintinginc with process details.
I personally think SW's Multi Surface Acrylic is a very good choice for this project.
Will be interesting to know how it holds over the years.
Adding rubber to the legs, very smart touch. Good on you for caring.
Let's hope your prep and paint job on it will last very long time and make you even more famous and the customer very happy with your work. Lol.
Thanks for all the details and pictures.
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