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Old 11-27-2009, 11:56 PM   #21
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Thanks for all of your responses. And believe me when I tell you I read each and every one! Very interesting to see the variance of products used by patrons of this site. My father, who taught me everything had some simple, great advice as I complained about the reformulating issues. He simply said "Don't stay married to any one product, you have to change and adapt as the products change." He is wise, and pretty much taught me the business. I think if I were to turn him on to this site, I would never get him off of his PC! I feel it is definately time to try some SW products out. They are good people who run the stores locally. We shall see... Anyone ever use the pro mar 200 semi...my brother said he used to love the stuff..just curious.

This is my first time posting on this site, and I must say that I am impressed with the knowledge within the responses. And the simple fact that many of you are willing to share your expertise and insight. I look forward to many more postings amongst fellow professionals. It's kinda cool.


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Old 11-28-2009, 02:27 PM   #22
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Your Dad sounds like mine, who also taught me most of what I know. I have used ProMar Semi, I wouldn't recommend it when your trying to high end work, but its works fine if you need to bust out a rental property that the owner wants to keep the price down. Not as durable as the ProClassic, which I swear by.

I have to say also, I thought all painters were are bunch of closed lipped beasts who feared and hated other painters, who only maddog each other when seen face to face, but this website has totally changed my opinion. I'm glad to see that we can all share quality information with each other. I really appreciate the candor. Thanks guys!
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:11 PM   #23
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Yes I have used the 200 semigloss, but the superpaint is far superior. 200 is great for walls though.
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:26 PM   #24
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We pretty much use SW for EVERYTHING...Pro Classic is alittle tricky but is the Shiz...can go right over oil with a light sand. Pro Mar is a great upper midgrade for walls. I have swithed to Classic 99 semi-gloss for trim to save a few bucks.
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Old 11-28-2009, 09:58 PM   #25
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I'm gonna try the proclassic over oil you mentioned. Do you thin it at all?
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Old 11-29-2009, 11:01 AM   #26
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Some of my guys like to cut it just a smidge, others like it straight.
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:04 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron61 View Post
Some of my guys like to cut it just a smidge, others like it straight.
I find you can address the applicability of a product by changing the model of your brush. Purdy has several models like the XL, Elite, Pro-extra - some paints that will make your brush drag like mad using the XL series, will suddenly glide easily once you switch to a different brush like the pro-extra or chinex. And vice versa - using an pro-xtra brush with a 'thin' paint will make the paint come off like a drippy faucet, yet change back to the XL and suddenly it works fine.

I work on changing to the brush model that is most conducive with the product I am using, and so far I haven't had to mess with adding 'extenders' that in my opinion have the potential to mess the original paint chemistry. I am not saying it will - but who knows what kind of surfactant 'package' you are adding to the paint and how it will impact the chemistry of the product you are using. Ever run into problems like a million little bubbles in your paint finish that don't go away? Those are nightmares I like to avoid at all costs. For exteriors I think it's less important - but again if you are painting towards the end of a season, even though the paint goes on fine and all. How do you really know how you are impacting the cross-polymerization ability of the resins especially if the nights are starting to get cool? These problems may not 'surface' for 2 years, then you have peely blistery mess that will make your customers angry - and not easily fixable.
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Old 11-30-2009, 07:57 PM   #28
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pro classics latex or waterbase whatever you callit works good goes on real heavy so you need to use a good thick brush . its sets up really fast so watch it for drips

Last edited by tntpainting; 11-30-2009 at 07:59 PM.. Reason: stupid me
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Old 12-05-2009, 05:13 PM   #29
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Regal, yes garbage IMO. A customer last year insisted that we use it and when he saw how it covered so poorly he was told to let me buy paint or pay for 3 coats labor.
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:55 PM   #30
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You guys who throw the waterborne enamels on straight- don't you have lots of problem getting it to level? I have seen no problem in coatings working as they should from adding extender, or even a bit of water to flow out better, but I have definitely had problems using it without.
Not a chemist, but I have doubts that the material is hurt too seriously by a little easier flow.
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Old 12-10-2009, 07:54 PM   #31
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After buying my last quart of Aquaglue for metal doors,i started a new job with SW Super semi gloss white.I have to say its awesome,real easy to use and covers great.I know where i will be buying my trim paint in the future.I cant believe BM has trashed theyre semi gloss,what were they thinking?
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:09 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick the painter View Post
After buying my last quart of Aquaglue for metal doors,i started a new job with SW Super semi gloss white.I have to say its awesome,real easy to use and covers great.I know where i will be buying my trim paint in the future.I cant believe BM has trashed theyre semi gloss,what were they thinking?
Now you're talking
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:57 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrushJockey View Post
You guys who throw the waterborne enamels on straight- don't you have lots of problem getting it to level? I have seen no problem in coatings working as they should from adding extender, or even a bit of water to flow out better, but I have definitely had problems using it without.
Not a chemist, but I have doubts that the material is hurt too seriously by a little easier flow.
For me not getting to far ahead with my stroke helps me keep a wet edge. They can be a bear but, I really like how durable they are.
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:10 AM   #34
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I know this is a late post but, my excuse is: "I just joined." I thought that I would chime in on this month-old thread. I'vetried just about all of the semi-glosses in the Delaware area and I can feel ya, regarding Regal Aqua-glo but, it's not a trim...like the other poster said. BM Waterborne Satin Impervo is my fav because it levels so well. It takes some getting used to because, although it sets very quickly, you have to get just the right amount on the surface to get the best, "leveled" look and, yet, just a bit too much will droop at the corners. But, with a bit of practice, it's the sh$%!!! Another thing that is piculiar about it is that you CANNOT go back over an area that you brushed out, a minute ago. You have to lay it on, spead it out to the thickness you think will set without drooping and then, ignore it until tomorrow. You gotta get it right or wipe it all of with a wet rag or leave it 24-36 hours. The only other down side of this stuff is that IMO it doesn't really cure to a "hard" finish like you would hope a "newer technology" paint would or should. It does turn out "smoooth," though...for sure. If you like that "brush-stroke-less, glassy-smooth finish in a semi and hardness, once cured isn't a major issue, then BM Waterborn Satin Impervo (Silver and Green Label) is my choice...for what its worth.
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Old 01-06-2010, 09:56 PM   #35
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Regal Aquablo
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:45 AM   #36
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Try the BEN semi-gloss
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:11 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Coat Coverage View Post
I'm gonna try the proclassic over oil you mentioned. Do you thin it at all?
I was given a gallon of Pro Classic last year and so I used it on some doors and trim as an experiment. I wanted to try them in the worst case scenario so I brushed it over some doors/trim that were painted in lacquer. I didn't clean or sand anything, just painted over and was very impressed w/the coverage, hide and leveling. I also didn't thin or add anything to the paint.

It looked sprayed on and within a few hours, could barely be scratched w/your nails. Of course, full curing would take longer.

This wasn't on a job but just on some spare doors and trim as a trial run. I also like using Superpaint for int/ext work as well.

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Old 01-14-2010, 11:59 AM   #38
 
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What is Sologloss? I've never heard of this SW product. I us SW product in MA
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:38 AM   #39
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Ok, here's my latest. I'm doing a job now continuing with supplied BM regal semi gloss. One in a pastel base, a deeper off white, one in a white base AF-20 "Mascarpone White". I promised myself not to bash products but I must vent this out. I would have had better results using Elmer's White Glue than this product. BM should promote it as "A Multi-Sheen Capable Paint". I have achieved through 2 coats what seems to be a flat, satin, and semi finish on all of the base, crown and doors. Ugh! It was like glue straight out the can, pulling and dragging, so I added a bit of floetrol and water, and now it seemed to dry even quicker and it lost all HIDING CAPABILITY! My bad. I'm F...ed! Now I have done 3 coats over an "antique white" and I still see through it. This product should be removed from the market and I hope a BM rep. reads this review. It is unconceivable that this company put out such a poor performing product. I truly love my BM Aura Satin, and miss it dearly on this job. You don't know what you miss until they take it away from you, eh? Wake up BM!
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