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#21 | |
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#22 |
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![]() Yes you would use more primer but not double. Primer is cheap. My labor not so cheap. For quality purposes nothing beats a good spray and backroll on new drywall. Also I don't think PCs weigh 40 pounds.
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#23 | |
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Yeah, materials are always cheaper than labor. Sock it to it as fast as you can, while transfer efficiency is a concern, it's trumped by labor almost every time. Certainly when dealing with cheap materials like drywall primer. I think the 40 pounds probably includes the vacuum as well. No way the sanding wand weighs that much. The PC's are nice to have. We use it often. |
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#24 |
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![]() Maybe I'm strange, but why would you need to sand freshly primed drywall? If you use the correct primers and backroll, it's not rough.
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#25 |
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![]() Scuffing down the primer gives it tooth to bond with next coat. For a level 4 tape job scuffing helps hide the joint banding caused from a smooth joint compound to a paper surface. Using a decent primer goes without saying.
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#26 |
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![]() I'd also add that there is always going to be residual dust from the final sanding of the drywall that will get bonded with the primer creating a rough surface.
At least around here, the drywallers usually do all the priming in my experience. They don't always use the best rollers.
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#27 |
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![]() Okay, but I think you really reaching there. If the transition between mud and paper facing of drywall isn't rough (because the primer was backrolled) pole sanding that transition isn't going to do anything except cause the painter to sweat.
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#28 |
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![]() Its all fun and games till you get into critical lighting areas with higher sheen paints.
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#29 |
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![]() [QUOTE=Carl;836794]Maybe I'm strange, but why would you need to sand freshly primed drywall? If you use the correct primers and backroll, it's not rough.[/QUOT
The drywall is always super rough in areas after prime coat, even with a back roll. You have to sand. |
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