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Old 06-04-2016, 07:15 PM   #1
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Default Selecting A Paint For Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets

Starting a job refinishing some ikea birch cabinets over to a light grey...

I'm on the fence between using Insl-x Cabinet Coat or Aura satin with a couple coats of water poly on top.


Are there any better options out there... Don't want to use BM Advance the re-coat and cure time is too long.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated :-)


Thanks!

Peter
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Old 06-04-2016, 07:48 PM   #2
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Are you going to be spraying the cabinets or doing them by hand?
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Old 06-04-2016, 07:51 PM   #3
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I'll be spraying the doors, and brushing/rolling the boxes and crown.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:10 PM   #4
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I'll be spraying the doors, and brushing/rolling the boxes and crown.
I love Aura for walls but I wouldn't want it for cabinets. If you have access to the old formula PPG breakthrough I'd go with that. If not I'd go with Sherwin Williams ProIndustrial Multi Surface Acrylic which is SW's version of Breakthrough. It drys super fast, is rock hard, and sticks to just about anything you can throw at it.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:14 PM   #5
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I'll be spraying the doors, and brushing/rolling the boxes and crown.
I love Aura for walls but I wouldn't want it for cabinets. If you have access to the old formula PPG breakthrough I'd go with that. If not I'd go with Sherwin Williams ProIndustrial Multi Surface Acrylic which is SW's version of Breakthrough. It drys super fast, is rock hard, and sticks to just about anything you can throw at it.
How smooth does the Proindustrial dry?
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:32 PM   #6
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I love Aura for walls but I wouldn't want it for cabinets. If you have access to the old formula PPG breakthrough I'd go with that. If not I'd go with Sherwin Williams ProIndustrial Multi Surface Acrylic which is SW's version of Breakthrough. It drys super fast, is rock hard, and sticks to just about anything you can throw at it.
Just did a fir front door in the SW Pro-Industrial Multi Surface Acrylic (not to be confused with their "All-Surface" product). Sanded much of the old dark stain finish off (in bad shape), primed with their exterior oil based primer, then sprayed it. Looked absolutely spectacular when it was done. Love that stuff for doors. Just wish it had at least one more sheen option.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:33 PM   #7
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How smooth does the Proindustrial dry?
I spray the doors with a .310 tritech tip and it dries super smooth. It also has a nice feel to it, unlike latex Proclassic which I think looks great but feels dry to the touch.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:33 PM   #8
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How smooth does the Proindustrial dry?
If you have decent spraying and brush skills you will be happy with the end result. You might be happy even if you don't.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:34 PM   #9
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I spray the doors with a .310 tritech tip and it dries super smooth. It also has a nice feel to it, unlike latex Proclassic which I think looks great but feels dry to the touch.
Yep - I also use a 310. Great results.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:37 PM   #10
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Just did a fir front door in the SW Pro-Industrial Multi Surface Acrylic (not to be confused with their "All-Surface" product). Sanded much of the old dark stain finish off (in bad shape), primed with their exterior oil based primer, then sprayed it. Looked absolutely spectacular when it was done. Love that stuff for doors. Just wish it had at least one more sheen option.
I've only ever used it in eggshell if it came in semi instead of gloss I'd use a heck of a lot more of it.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:37 PM   #11
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I'd also use some XIM latex extender when doing the roller and brushing. Not really needed when spraying IMO.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:39 PM   #12
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I've only ever used it in eggshell if it came in semi instead of gloss I'd use a heck of a lot more of it.
Exactly. I like the eggshell but a few more notches up in sheen would be great as an option. Not used the gloss - yet.
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:09 PM   #13
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Just did a fir front door in the SW Pro-Industrial Multi Surface Acrylic (not to be confused with their "All-Surface" product). Sanded much of the old dark stain finish off (in bad shape), primed with their exterior oil based primer, then sprayed it. Looked absolutely spectacular when it was done. Love that stuff for doors. Just wish it had at least one more sheen option.


I share this wish.
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:20 PM   #14
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[/B]

I share this wish.
Seems like I remember my go to guy at SW telling me one was in the works - but maybe I'm wrong. Will check with him about it on Monday.
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:24 PM   #15
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Starting a job refinishing some ikea birch cabinets over to a light grey...

I'm on the fence between using Insl-x Cabinet Coat or Aura satin with a couple coats of water poly on top.


Are there any better options out there... Don't want to use BM Advance the re-coat and cure time is too long.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated :-)


Thanks!

Peter
Cabinet coat is a good product, I was back at a job that was seven years old and they still looked new.
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Primer makes everything better...
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:44 AM   #16
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Ppg breakthrough satin. Great finish. Sets fast. Hard as nails. Easy to work with. Go for gloss if you like that plastic look. Sheen is a little dull, but feels great and looks like a medium rub laq.

https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/57541e94...603_140157.mp4
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Old 06-05-2016, 09:45 AM   #17
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I primarily use BM and have used the Aura on cab's. It is a nice finish but going to be softer than a hybrid and I'm not happy with the Advance for the same reason either. Older couple and surprisingly it held up nicely over the years. That said, My next is one is going to be PPG Breakthrough. I tried the Proclassic a couple of times when it first came out on some commercial kitchen doors and was not impressed backed then.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:11 AM   #18
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I'm using Pro Industrial Urethane Alkyd (their oil, not the new water based). Light sanded boxes and fronts. one coat with a 395 312/212 tip and that'll do it! Super nice finish and covered great. No issues with coverage, sheen or runners on boxes.
However, dry time sucks. Just flipped a few fronts to spray back and the few I did and racked now have dents on the first coat side from the rack.

Thought 4 days would have been enough dry time but nope. Does anyone have an idea on speeding that dry time up but still allowing the oil to level out?

Process on these ones:
Clean surface, lightly sanded off sheen, Pro Ind oil (Black Bean SW color), thinned with mineral spirits by 15%, Graco 212 & 312 tips through 395 PC pump. Sprayed and racked horizontally.
4-day dry time on fronts before flipped and sprayed on other side.

(added Japan Dryer to back side to test dry times. Roughly two cap fulls of Japan to the gallon, thinned with mineral 15%) May have tinted color a tad but took the risk for faster dry time. Love this product but if I can't speed up drying, it'll be a long time before I find a use for it again on a job.

Will be wet sanding both sides of 8 of them for another coat to get out the new rack-grooves I have on one side and still have the rest of the set to coat on back side and need to speed up dry time for this round...

any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

I used to use the Pro Ind Multi surface and I agree, that stuff works great but hard to find a primer that I can tint under Black Bean color that won't show through when wet sanding for second coat/ironing out defects before top coating or calling set complete. MSurface with XIM for white cabs works great, especially with a nice lacquer top coat.... like glass. I dedicated a pump to oil so wanted to start upping my refinishing game with oil.

Might be again looking at Breakthrough though if I can find a steady source of the good stuff. I do a set or two a week so I need 3-4 gallons of it for each set (w/ boxes)
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Just did a fir front door in the SW Pro-Industrial Multi Surface Acrylic (not to be confused with their "All-Surface" product). Sanded much of the old dark stain finish off (in bad shape), primed with their exterior oil based primer, then sprayed it. Looked absolutely spectacular when it was done. Love that stuff for doors. Just wish it had at least one more sheen option.
Do you think it could be sprayed with a HVLP without thinning?
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Old 06-08-2016, 08:30 AM   #20
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Yesterday we were painting kitchen cabinets with PPG breakthrough. We have used this product several times and have had excellent results. Unfortunately we had total product failure with runs and sags on the boxes and the cabinet doors being sprayed horizontally. We have never encountered this with breakthrough period due to the fact that we had total failure after the first coat the second coat and the third coat we used the suggestion of our local been more rep and tried cabinet coat. After prepping three doors and spraying out the three doors with cabinet coat upon inspection the doors looked Flawless as if they had been spray-painted with waterborne colored lacquer. Not a single digit or orange peel in the entire spray pattern. I think we will use this product for the next two cabinet jobs given that it seems to write out fairly well for durability and hardness period we are quite gun-shy about using breakthrough again given that we lost two whole days of Labor with breakthrough failure. As well on this project we had to use advance satin in a dark Benjamin Moore color called Iron Mountain for the kitchen island. PPG did not have the correct bases to mix a dark color. We went with Advance satin and of course waited a full day in between coats for painting. Making a side-by-side comparison between advance and breakthrough on the doors we noticed that the advance was Flawless compared to breakthrough. Both colors and both products were sprayed in the same spray booth and yet failure with one product and total success with another. Hopefully cabinet coat will durable enough that we can continue to use it based on the incredible results that were achieved when we spray painted it with Tritech 210 fine finish tip. The local Inn Select rap is going to let us try the aqua lock primer that is recommended to be used in conjunction with cabinet coat. Will post pictures when we get a chance
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