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Old 05-29-2013, 02:56 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReNt A PaInTeR View Post
$360 is still too much much for a gallon kit. My customer wants chalkboard paint on a door and I wanted to suggest dry erase instead but I didn't know it was very high priced.
I get where you're coming from. It's not cheap. That said, you should be able to paint a door (even two doors) with a Quart kit. Best of luck with your bid.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:47 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jack pauhl View Post
Chalk board paint or dry erase... pick one. One is black, the other is white.
Chalkboard paint comes in an array of colors now.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:48 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Roamer View Post
Ben Moore sells a chalkboard paint that comes in just about every one of their colors.
So does rust oleum.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:49 PM   #24
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I have not used SW Dry Erase product,but would like to know about performance and pricing.The product I've used is a Wolf Gordon product called WINK or Walls Love Ink.The corporate designers at my bread and butter account specifify this product.They almost always want entire walls painted with it and I found it impossible to apply it without getting roller lap marks while looking at it angular.It does seem to work well,meaning that it erases clean.Some walls they call for it on just have more paint stipple than others.Walls with more stipple takes more effort to erase.The smoother the better for sure.The product comes with what is basically a liquid wax that you apply by cloth after 5 days.pricing is this 50 sf $125,100sf $215,200sf $400.Any reveiw on SW's
http://www.wolfgordon.com/wink
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:39 AM   #25
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We have a private school right across the street from our office. We've painted one wall in every class room with Idea Paint Dry Erase. We initially used the solvent based product but its odor was so strong that no other trades could work in the building.

The school used the boards for one school year and experienced quite a bit of ghosting from their markers. This was due to several different factors. Some of the walls were not a level 5 finish, so the ridges in the finished drywall caught the erased markers and left ridges of whatever color they were using. We also had a couple of walls that had 'holidays' on them and that of course led to further ghosting. Also the school was using unapproved markers on some boards and not using the liquid erase for the dry erase pads.

We re-coated all of those same walls a year later with the water-based version. All of the walls were sanded meticulously, primed and painted with a uniform finish. The school is very happy with the end results.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:47 AM   #26
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Sherwin Williams dry erase= dry billfold!
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:33 PM   #27
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Hey,
I'm new here, and am really looking for some help.
I bought the Sherwin Williams Dry Erase Coating and cant figure out how to work with it.
There are no instructions besides the warning and I was told to treat it like an epoxy by a Sherwin Williams Store manager???
He mentioned that if applied wrong it will never dry!
That being said I don't want to take the risk.

Does anyone know how to prep, mix, and apply this coating properly??
My project is 95% complete and client insists on this particular product!

Thanks In advance!
Shlomi
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handy Shlomi View Post
Hey,
I'm new here, and am really looking for some help.
I bought the Sherwin Williams Dry Erase Coating and cant figure out how to work with it.
There are no instructions besides the warning and I was told to treat it like an epoxy by a Sherwin Williams Store manager???
He mentioned that if applied wrong it will never dry!
That being said I don't want to take the risk.

Does anyone know how to prep, mix, and apply this coating properly??
My project is 95% complete and client insists on this particular product!

Thanks In advance!
Shlomi
Well first, you want to make sure that the wall is completely smooth. Which you probably already knew but just had to say it.

The instructions should come with instructions as it did when we were using it. I think the ratio is 2:1 but I could be wrong.

Basically, you mix up half for the first coat, apply and let it dry for 24 hours.
Then the next day you mix the other half and apply like you did the first. And don't let anyone write on it for at least a week.

After it is mixed though, you only have a 90 min pot life.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:05 PM   #29
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http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pain...erase-coating/

Click the PDS link

When I bought a gallon of this stuff, the manager at the Sherwin Williams printed this out and gave it to me. I don't know why instructions are not included. Just mix the 2 parts together and mix it as instructed and you will be fine.
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