Specialty Exterior Primers? (Mad Dog, Peel Bond, Peel Stop 3X)... - Paint Talk

804 Paint · 07-03-2014, 02:39 PM

Regarding Mad Dog, Peel Bond, and Peel Stop 3X, I know they are not the same products, but I wonder if anyone has experience with all three? Which situations truly warrant such products, and when are they overkill? They seem like they are "problem area" type products, but would you ever use them over an entire exterior?

How do they brush or roll? Do they leave really obvious or thick brush/roller marks that need to be sanded out and can they even be sanded well?

And the big question, do they REALLY cut down on prep time? If so, how? You still need to scrape and sand all loose paint away. When you get down to bare wood, do you really feel confident using these products directly on the wood instead of first priming with a long oil?

The one house I'm looking at is a mostly brick ranch but there's lots of wood to paint. The paint is failing all over the place (alligatoring and peeling). I feel like it's a good candidate for a full coat of Mad Dog (or Mad Dog 2), but again can I really skip the oil-to-bare-wood step?

I want to post-script this thread by saying that I'm working my first two exterior bids, and for both I am the only painter to have a foot in the door. The guy I work for is amazing and is allowing me to work for him but also schedule in my own jobs. With that said, we don't see eye to eye on prep, exploring new products and procedures, and various other important things. That is to say my experience is limited to how he does things.

I know everyone likes pics, so (edit: there are other pics that tell a more complete story but they are not uploading for some reason):

GSP82 · 07-03-2014, 05:10 PM

I have used peel bond , mad dog and they both worked well but the only difference is the mad dog stays really sticky.

woodcoyote · 07-03-2014, 10:15 PM

I've used Peel Bond. That stuff is super crazy. It grabs the paint like crazy and adheres like I've never seen it before.

As far as filling is concerned...it's good, but takes a lot of product to fill heavy marks and the cost is high.

Never tried the other stuff before, maybe others can chime in.

MikeCalifornia · 07-03-2014, 10:28 PM

Pic#1-those primers will do a good job with a heavy coat to cover the cracks, I would sand to dull the finish first.

Pic#2-you will have to knock down the peels with a sanding pole or just a quick scrape with drywall knife. No primer will fill that, and those bits will just break off into the primer as you roll it on. It will take at least two coats to show some noticeable fill, but it is much better than a regular primer.

Cost is always an issue, but they do lock the "junk" down and paint does go on really easy after that. I like them for spraying on eaves and fascia when they are "scrapers". They are usually a translucent clear, I mix one gallon of tinted primer with a five of peelbond and it works well. Since they are elastomeric, when you spray and load them up, the finish looks funky and does not flow out, unless you quickly brush it. I prefer spraying a coat then spot rolling sections that need more fill. Back rolling when wet as the product specifies does not work to well, the roller will just slide around. Also, peelstop is ultra thin not a thick one.

804 Paint · 07-07-2014, 08:00 PM

Thanks everyone.

I am not worried about filling the cracks so much. The house is old. The owners are not wanting it restored. Main two concerns for me are:

1) Can I really apply this directly to bare wood or should I follow protocol and prime with a long oil first (this is really the only time-saving thing I see here…everything is going to be scraped and sanded no matter what the product claims)?

2) Will it leave behind heavy roller or brush marks? If you only do it in certain areas does it stand out as being thicker?

Mike - thanks again for your input. As far as PeelStop I'm referring to the "triple thick" version of the same.

MikeCalifornia · 07-07-2014, 08:06 PM

If you are scraping and sanding stuff down, probably no benefit to using these. For old wood, Coverstain might be the best bet, or SW Problock oil.

804 Paint · 07-07-2014, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeCalifornia

If you are scraping and sanding stuff down, probably no benefit to using these. For old wood, Coverstain might be the best bet, or SW Problock oil.

I thought the idea was, especially for older houses, that the stuff that ain't peeling yet will be peeling soon. And that the elastomeric properties of, say, Mad Dog, keep the paint that is going to pop or peel from becoming a problem in the future.

Sent from my iPad using PaintTalk.com

masterblaster · 07-09-2014, 02:00 PM

hmmm peel stop 3x,how many have used this and have long term experience with it?

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
XIM Peel bond	Eurosportgti	General Painting Discussion	25	06-23-2012 01:30 PM
XIM Peel Bond Vs Alkyd Primers	Dunbar Painting	Surface Preparation and Application	11	03-06-2012 08:35 PM
Hot Buy: Kel-Bond Ultra (like Peel-Bond)	BreatheEasyHP	General Painting Discussion	4	08-22-2011 01:04 AM
To Peel Bond or Not to Peel Bond, that is the question	Tonyg	Surface Preparation and Application	38	06-29-2010 08:03 PM
peel bond	jacob33	General Painting Discussion	17	01-30-2010 08:43 PM

07-03-2014, 02:39 PM	#1
804 Paint Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Virginia Posts: 919 Rewards Points: 800 Thanks: 417 Thanked 358 Times in 219 Posts My Photos	Specialty Exterior Primers? (Mad Dog, Peel Bond, Peel Stop 3X)... Regarding Mad Dog, Peel Bond, and Peel Stop 3X, I know they are not the same products, but I wonder if anyone has experience with all three? Which situations truly warrant such products, and when are they overkill? They seem like they are "problem area" type products, but would you ever use them over an entire exterior? How do they brush or roll? Do they leave really obvious or thick brush/roller marks that need to be sanded out and can they even be sanded well? And the big question, do they REALLY cut down on prep time? If so, how? You still need to scrape and sand all loose paint away. When you get down to bare wood, do you really feel confident using these products directly on the wood instead of first priming with a long oil? The one house I'm looking at is a mostly brick ranch but there's lots of wood to paint. The paint is failing all over the place (alligatoring and peeling). I feel like it's a good candidate for a full coat of Mad Dog (or Mad Dog 2), but again can I really skip the oil-to-bare-wood step? I want to post-script this thread by saying that I'm working my first two exterior bids, and for both I am the only painter to have a foot in the door. The guy I work for is amazing and is allowing me to work for him but also schedule in my own jobs. With that said, we don't see eye to eye on prep, exploring new products and procedures, and various other important things. That is to say my experience is limited to how he does things. I know everyone likes pics, so (edit: there are other pics that tell a more complete story but they are not uploading for some reason): Attached Thumbnails Last edited by 804 Paint; 07-03-2014 at 02:44 PM..

07-03-2014, 05:10 PM	#2
GSP82 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 172 Rewards Points: 87 Thanks: 316 Thanked 145 Times in 60 Posts My Photos	I have used peel bond , mad dog and they both worked well but the only difference is the mad dog stays really sticky.

07-03-2014, 10:15 PM	#3
woodcoyote Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 2,113 Rewards Points: 2,304 Thanks: 12 Thanked 837 Times in 577 Posts My Photos	I've used Peel Bond. That stuff is super crazy. It grabs the paint like crazy and adheres like I've never seen it before. As far as filling is concerned...it's good, but takes a lot of product to fill heavy marks and the cost is high. Never tried the other stuff before, maybe others can chime in.

07-03-2014, 10:28 PM	#4
MikeCalifornia Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,835 Rewards Points: 1,056 Thanks: 339 Thanked 1,006 Times in 639 Posts My Photos	Pic#1-those primers will do a good job with a heavy coat to cover the cracks, I would sand to dull the finish first. Pic#2-you will have to knock down the peels with a sanding pole or just a quick scrape with drywall knife. No primer will fill that, and those bits will just break off into the primer as you roll it on. It will take at least two coats to show some noticeable fill, but it is much better than a regular primer. Cost is always an issue, but they do lock the "junk" down and paint does go on really easy after that. I like them for spraying on eaves and fascia when they are "scrapers". They are usually a translucent clear, I mix one gallon of tinted primer with a five of peelbond and it works well. Since they are elastomeric, when you spray and load them up, the finish looks funky and does not flow out, unless you quickly brush it. I prefer spraying a coat then spot rolling sections that need more fill. Back rolling when wet as the product specifies does not work to well, the roller will just slide around. Also, peelstop is ultra thin not a thick one.

07-07-2014, 08:00 PM	#5
804 Paint Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Virginia Posts: 919 Rewards Points: 800 Thanks: 417 Thanked 358 Times in 219 Posts My Photos	Thanks everyone. I am not worried about filling the cracks so much. The house is old. The owners are not wanting it restored. Main two concerns for me are: 1) Can I really apply this directly to bare wood or should I follow protocol and prime with a long oil first (this is really the only time-saving thing I see here…everything is going to be scraped and sanded no matter what the product claims)? 2) Will it leave behind heavy roller or brush marks? If you only do it in certain areas does it stand out as being thicker? Mike - thanks again for your input. As far as PeelStop I'm referring to the "triple thick" version of the same.

07-07-2014, 08:06 PM	#6
MikeCalifornia Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,835 Rewards Points: 1,056 Thanks: 339 Thanked 1,006 Times in 639 Posts My Photos	If you are scraping and sanding stuff down, probably no benefit to using these. For old wood, Coverstain might be the best bet, or SW Problock oil.

07-09-2014, 02:00 PM	#8
masterblaster Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 16 Rewards Points: 30 Thanks: 2 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts My Photos	hmmm peel stop 3x,how many have used this and have long term experience with it?