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Old 01-15-2017, 09:16 PM   #1
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Default Spraying a book case

Using the rust scat enamel with xylene to thin it. Pressure I've tried between 40 up to 60 toyed with all three settings on a Kobalt gravity feed sprayer. Kicker is the very first coat I put on the shelves turned out like glass. Cleaned it and have never been able to reproduce the results.



Help I'm new to this but getting frustrated quickly
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:44 AM   #2
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Orange peel is one of the hardest things to figure out. There are so many reasons why it turns out like that. Could be too much pressure, too much material applied, wrong needle in gun, spraying too close, material drying too fast, etc. The surface needs to be sanded down to remove the orange peel prior to applying another coat. See if the paint can be thinned with mineral spirits instead of xylene to reduce its drying time allowing the paint to flow. Make sure your gun is held roughly 6" to 10" away from the work and apply in really little coats.
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:53 AM   #3
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I know that there can be multiple reasons, but every time I've had issues with orange peel it was because of having the gun too close when spraying.
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Old 01-16-2017, 12:34 PM   #4
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Real good advice already given. First thing I'd suggest is to not use xylene. Try heating your paint, (up to 90°F). This will help the paint flow, requiring less thinning. If you still need to thin it, use water.

Common causes for orange peel in your situation:
-Paint is too thick, (so either thin paint more and/or use more air pressure)
-Improper speed and/or distance of gun to sprayed surface, (usually caused from spraying too far from surface and/or too fast).
-Your thinning agent is evaporating so quickly that it doesn't allow sufficient time for the paint to flow & level, (that's why I'd ditch the xylene).
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:17 PM   #5
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Default Good advice

May try to heat it up. The first coat I laid down on the shelves was like glass but the weather has been a lot cooler.
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:26 PM   #6
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Great advice here. I agree with above posts.

I had a hvlp cup gun and big air compressor we used to use. Trim came out like glass. We a Graco 395 FP and I had a hard time getting the trim to come out like glass. After asking on here I was able to figure out my pressure settings but still had to figure out material flow and how far to hold the gun away. Once I figured that out trim was looking like glass again. We don't spray every job, heck I think it's been 2-3 months since we last sprayed trim.
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Old 01-17-2017, 11:20 AM   #7
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When we first started using HVLP, we had issues with orange peel. Once we realized that the heated air was likely part of the problem, we switched to a "cooler" solvent, problem solved. For the regular alkyd enamels, like PPG 6-90 or BM Impervo, all it took was changing from Varnish Makers and Painters to regular mineral spirits.
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:21 PM   #8
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I just started with HVLP myself and was surprised at the learning curve as opposed to airless. I cut myself a bunch of scraps and started experimenting with air pressure, fluid volume, fan size, gun distance, and fluid viscosity. I numbered each sample and noted all the variables I mentioned above, made notes of my observations at the time of spraying and then again after it had dried. The process takes time for sure, but once you know the ideal settings for the specific product you're using there is no more guess work and your confidence in using the equipment grows quickly. Everyone has given great advice on why you're getting the orange peel texture, just stay calm, methodical, and you'll get the hang of it.


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