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Old 12-29-2015, 01:59 AM   #1
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Default Spraying Oil Enamel Doors and Trim

Hey guys, Tis my first post here, hello from Australia!

Recently my company has attempted to spray our doors with somewhat spotty results.

The first time we sprayed them standing up like you would with acrylic gloss and that ended up running. So then we made our own door stackers.

After fiddling around with our setup we have gotten to the point where we can tet a finish substantially better then the cut and rolled doors. However we are still getting quite considerable orange peel.

We have found best results so far with a 211 tip and two coats of paint with about 20% turpentine. Also tried the Wagner xvlp gun but that thing is useless.

Anybody sprays their oil based doors and trim?

The next options were looking at is getting an air assisted gun such as the finish pro by graco, or even using a compressor/pot gun setup. Cheers guys, happy holidays.
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Old 12-29-2015, 02:47 AM   #2
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Spraying oil is old school. It will stink but it will look nice. I suggest a fine finish tip. 210, 212 or a 310
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Old 12-29-2015, 03:07 PM   #3
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I've not a lot of experience with spraying unfortunately, but I'm curious why you've gone the oil route? Granted, it can be a nice finish, but it's a PITA. Have you tried a hybrid product? Something like BM Advance, whatever the SW hybrid thing is (ProClassic?), something along those lines? They can give just as nice of a finish, often with less runs/sags, and be much nicer to work with.
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Old 12-29-2015, 03:24 PM   #4
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We use 213 typically for oil based enamel. Oil is getting chased out of the market primarily because of the higher VOC count. At least that's what I understand....but it yields an amazing, long-lasting finish.

I always try to mention to stay a consistant distance away from the substrate once you found the "right" distance. ...and ALWAYS test it out before you spray.

Let us know what your results are.

Fred
http://dqpainting.com/
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Old 12-29-2015, 04:12 PM   #5
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I liked a .09 or a .11 for the oil for trim. Been a long time now but the oil was better in every way for trim, progress.....

I about always shot it straight out of the can, no cut. I don't know how bad a orange peel your getting. Some guys would get into mixing up the paint with cut and wind up splashing in some Japan dryer and that would help out the orange peel. I always liked to work straight out of the can myself, no real problems.
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Old 12-29-2015, 08:05 PM   #6
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What is the surface temp, air temp and product temp? Australia sounds warm enough (from Seattle, WA, USA) but who knows...
Bottom line....Warm these 3 things up and see what happens.

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Old 12-29-2015, 08:32 PM   #7
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And use a wider tip. 3-10 or 4-10. Better atomization with wider tips.
I used to add naphtha when spraying to help it set up a little quicker.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrakeB View Post
I've not a lot of experience with spraying unfortunately, but I'm curious why you've gone the oil route? Granted, it can be a nice finish, but it's a PITA. Have you tried a hybrid product? Something like BM Advance, whatever the SW hybrid thing is (ProClassic?), something along those lines? They can give just as nice of a finish, often with less runs/sags, and be much nicer to work with.
Yeah I'm with ya, we have ordinary acrylic gloss here and a more hybrid type product that came out recently from Haymes. However the products we use even down to the tools are behind what youse get in America, from what I've seen online.

I'm the only one that I know off that uses purdy and Wooster brushes. Even they are hard to get a hold off here. Forget about wooster alphas or coronas, Picasso, never seen any off them.

Our company has taken a turn into doing new construction almost exclusively. And the builders want traditional oil so that's what they get I guess.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:18 AM   #9
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We do brush our trim in as it's usually pretty basic nothing fancy type dealio. When we come up against balustrades and the like well use the handheld xvlp gun if it decides it wants to work that day.

I think the finish you can get by brush is good enough and healthier...to some extent haha

However when it comes to doors...that's a different ball game, the quality of a spray finish on flat faced doors is so superior that we've decided to pursue that route. No one else really does it here. After solving most of the issues were left with the Orange peel as the one thing keeping us back.

We've almost exhausted the airless apart from heating up the paint, that's a great tip mate. We'll definitely give that a shot. Any suggested temp? Can you heat it too much? We're at about 35 Celsius during most days, on a masked up house in summer you can rech 45-50c.
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:56 AM   #10
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You can definitely heat it too much. Check the TDS for your paint for min/max temp applications. Try to stay at least a few degrees from max for best application properties. Don't microwave it or anything!
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Old 12-30-2015, 10:03 AM   #11
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Jeeze, if the conversion calculator I'm looking at is accurate that puts you at about 95 -113 degrees Fahrenheit...your product, surface and air temps are plenty warm...maybe too warm even...any chance you have ac and can bring those temps down to roughly 21-23 c or so? That's still on the warmer side of things, but if it's a temp issue, at that range it should be worked out..
Maybe try shooting a set at night when it's cooler?

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Old 12-31-2015, 03:25 AM   #12
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Spray on with 311, 411 or any equivalent type of tip, hold the gun away at least 2', 2.5 is optimal, once the doors have the paint applied, put on heater and high velocity fan to make hot air circulate the area for couple of hours. Top molecules of paint are drying and squeezing to make a tight film. The closer you hold the gun, the less persistent the coat will be, the longer the paint dries, the more orange skin like will be.
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