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Old 11-01-2009, 12:15 PM   #1
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Default Stain question

What do you guy's like best to do? When you are staining and applying and clear top coat on trim do you like to fill the nail holes before, or after the top coat has been applied with color match putty? One other thread brought this to mind because if you putty first and the putty shrinks you are SOL, but after you can add more.Let's here it guy's.
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:47 PM   #2
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stain and seal first. putty nail holes before final topcoat
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Old 11-01-2009, 01:59 PM   #3
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Sandsealer
Stain
Sandealer
Putty(matched)
2 coats top coat
.
I thought this was just norm
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:17 PM   #4
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with wiping stains and gel stains and the use of waterborne polys I hardly use sanding sealer anymore. I have puttied prior to and after poly with same results..
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:41 PM   #5
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I have not messed around with sealing the wood prior to stain yet.

My system is to fill holes with wood putty, sand smooth, spray stain, clear coat, glaze, and the more clear coats.
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanV View Post
I have not messed around with sealing the wood prior to stain yet.

My system is to fill holes with wood putty, sand smooth, spray stain, clear coat, glaze, and the more clear coats.

what kind of stains are you spraying? I have only done it that when I was dealing with wood that was taking stain bad... had problem with Birch a few times.
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:53 PM   #7
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I mostly spray my stain aswell. I use acid tone stain and sometime lacquer shading. I hardly use wiping I just finished some cabinets I used wiping and shading
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:16 PM   #8
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yeah I used some alcohol based toners for the first time last year. I having done cabinets in years. Most cabinets here come out from the factory and we match the trim to them on site.
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:31 PM   #9
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They are alcohol base stains, I think the company that matches the stuff up uses Chemcraft products. The labels are useless for any info. since they start with an empty can and add solvent and colorants (mostly dye, some pigment depending on what the match calls for). Spray only, no wiping.

For me, I have been using them a bit for 2 years now and they can be a little challenging still to get the color to turn out right. Sometimes for no apparent reason, they want to turn out red compared to the same or previous jobs with the same stain. They are nice for maple though.
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanV View Post
They are alcohol base stains, I think the company that matches the stuff up uses Chemcraft products. The labels are useless for any info. since they start with an empty can and add solvent and colorants (mostly dye, some pigment depending on what the match calls for). Spray only, no wiping.

For me, I have been using them a bit for 2 years now and they can be a little challenging still to get the color to turn out right. Sometimes for no apparent reason, they want to turn out red compared to the same or previous jobs with the same stain. They are nice for maple though.
I have used them on maple and Birch and yes I agree there's a learning curve...
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Old 11-01-2009, 04:33 PM   #11
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Are you doing the matches yourself then? I have considered looking into a complete WB system including the spray stains and think I would be better off matching myself onsite with this approach since it looks like I would be ordering everything from the internet instead of dealing with a local supplier.
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanV View Post
Are you doing the matches yourself then? I have considered looking into a complete WB system including the spray stains and think I would be better off matching myself onsite with this approach since it looks like I would be ordering everything from the internet instead of dealing with a local supplier.
yes it is up to me to match them.
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:55 PM   #13
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I sand woodwork prestain, stain,sand and sealer fill holes, 1 coat of poly sanding woodwork and tacking as I go.
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