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Old 12-20-2011, 01:59 PM   #1
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Default Tongue and Groove Ceiling Advice

I've got a job coming up first week in January. Older home, master bedroom vaulted ceiling. Currently it's rough tongue and grove boards and wood beams. The wood looks fairly dark but they don't know if that's natural or stained. (It was built around 1950). They are tired of the dark look and want it painted ceiling white. Walls are a dark blue, matte finish they want to keep. I usually use BM products. Any suggestions on prep, products and application techniques? Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:27 PM   #2
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I think T & g needs to be brushed in-
Prime and finish like any other precoated-
I wouldn't use a flat finish- see if they're ok with matte-
I usually take 5-6 boards- roll a section - backbrush- finish lengths- repeat.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:13 PM   #3
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Be prepared for a lot of caulking. I bet every 3rd groove will need a little or a lot.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:27 PM   #4
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Yes a case of 464. Don't see why you couldn't spray it.

I would prime it with oil, caulk fill and sand, Advance topcoat, it comes in flat as well.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straight_lines View Post
Yes a case of 464. Don't see why you couldn't spray it.

I would prime it with oil, caulk fill and sand, Advance topcoat, it comes in flat as well.
I don't spray...that would be a good option if I did. Do you think the new BM 046 Superior primer would work in this case?
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:45 PM   #6
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The knots would worry me, being that its probably yellow pine right? I suppose if the clear was applied at enough mils that wouldn't be a problem. As long as you had enough bite with the 046.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:53 PM   #7
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It's been a couple of months since I first looked at it. I'll try to get up there tomorrow to determine if it's got a clear or stain on it. I was just wondering if the Superior does any better for stain blocking than their old wb primer. I'll ask at the BM dealor too.
Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:00 PM   #8
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how high up is said ceiling? do they want it perfect? lower ceiling means more to prep
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:02 PM   #9
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Having done many of these- spraying isn't a good idea because you don't work it into the grooves- particularly between actual boards. Caulking isn't a good idea because it will look like hell when the boards expand and contract- which they will do.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:07 PM   #10
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If I remember it starts at about 8 ft and probably goes up to about 12 ft at the ridge.

OK we've got 1 for caulk and 1 for no caulk...
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrushJockey View Post
Having done many of these- spraying isn't a good idea because you don't work it into the grooves- particularly between actual boards. Caulking isn't a good idea because it will look like hell when the boards expand and contract- which they will do.
Not with the right caulk.

What happens when the boards expand and show unpainted wood? It will look bad.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:12 PM   #12
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Thats the part about brushing it in...
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:13 PM   #13
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And if its contracted when you brush it?
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:14 PM   #14
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Ive done alot of these- go ahead and spray it and caulk.
Then you'll know.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:16 PM   #15
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I bet unless you have lived in or close to SE NC you haven't even see the type of paneling he is talking about. 60's houses here are full of it.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:20 PM   #16
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I do remember that it did not appear to be a smooth surface so I think sandings out.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:25 PM   #17
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My guess is the boards are yellow pine, V-groove, tongue and groove, rough sawn, 1 x 6. I don't think there's a clear on it but it might have a darker stain.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrushJockey View Post
Having done many of these- spraying isn't a good idea because you don't work it into the grooves- particularly between actual boards. Caulking isn't a good idea because it will look like hell when the boards expand and contract- which they will do.
I'm with Rob on the caulking. The t & g needs to expand and contract. Maybe you get away with a really good caulk, but probably not. It really looks like sh!t when it contracts and the caulking all cracks. If I have a choice I try to do stuff like this in the winter when the heat is cranking and the wood it at it's most contracted. It's a lot easier to touch up a little raw wood that could possibly show than it is to cut out and replace all that caulk. Once you start there is no going back.

Make sure you get a good stain blocking primer on it.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:53 PM   #19
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OK, tell the customer we don't think you're a good fit for the job.


I see brushjockys point. I guess it would be a judgement call depending on how tight the joints were, but I'm envisioning joints half filled with paint.
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Old 12-20-2011, 05:01 PM   #20
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Like this
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