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Old 12-20-2009, 10:49 PM   #1
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Default Too cold for exterior paint?

Hello all,

Not that I don't know the answer on this one but I'm going to ask anyway...
We are located in NJ. Whether now in low 30's, nights in 20's.
Have customer in middle of residential addition that is asking to have
soffets and facia boards primed before gutters get installed. I have already told them that it is too cold and I would not be comfortable
nor warranty any work that was done outside if they insisted on getting
it done.
We primarily do residential interior re-paints so I'm not aware if there
might be any priming products that could be used at these
temperatures.

Thanks for any info you may offer.
Mark
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Old 12-20-2009, 11:38 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deco View Post
Not that I don't know the answer on this one
You should be all set then...
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Old 12-21-2009, 12:05 AM   #3
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Why put yourself in an uncomfortable situation? Even using low temp exterior products there is no way I'm going to put my company's reputation and risk a possible scrape n repaint on the line simply because I have an impatient customer.

We stop exterior work when nights are expected to get below freezing. If they cant wait until warmer weather comes, then they can hire a handyman who will probably slobber behr all over their shingles and driveway anyhow.

Explain to them why painting in below freezing temps is bad and if they are reasonable, they will understand. Stick to your guns or you man regret it later. Good luck!
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Old 12-21-2009, 02:33 AM   #4
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Here we usually have a 3 to 4 hour window in the higher elevations, the lower I can paint 8 hours. I will be starting on a ranch job next week, it's in a higher elevation. Ext semi transparent.
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Old 12-21-2009, 04:28 AM   #5
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I recently did an outside job;stained a deck where it was around 5c. It was a contractor friend of mine so he knew it was to cold to pass the specs of the paint. I'm going to coat it next year. Maybe if it needs it?

-Is it the temp of the surface or the general temp outside
-Does any one use a temp machine thingy. were you measure the temp with a beam like a measure tool.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:07 AM   #6
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It is the temp of the surface. Rob uses the temp gun to check interior wall in NC before painting.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:20 AM   #7
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Even though a paint is low temp (35F) that doesent mean that it dries the same as warmer temps. Basically a good rule of thumb...every 10 Degrees below 70...double the dry time. So if a paint says 2 hours on the can....at 60F thats gonna be around 4 hours. Go from there.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:35 AM   #8
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You also have to worry about touch up. If you paint when it is cold and touch up when it is warm, it will not match.
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:35 AM   #9
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You can also think about alkyd based paint if available.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerboy View Post
You can also think about alkyd based paint if available.
Yeah, but if drying was a concern with latex.......that oil will be sticky till spring
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:23 AM   #11
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Add japan driers. We've done it for years and never had a problem. Plus most of todays alkyds already dry faster.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:27 AM   #12
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Perfect timing for this thread. I haven't talked to a SW rep yet. But, we just got a call Saturday to quote painting a school's name on the exterior of the building. The schools sets back a ways from the road and they want some large identifiable lettering at the top of the exterior building. A lil different then the OP but anybody got some opinions? Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:43 AM   #13
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Japan driers as well as Naptha and Alcohol can affect the paint performance. They can be helpful, but I try and not use them personally.

Most of the "new" alkyds tend to dry slower from what i've seen, from the lack of thinners ( voc's) in them. Which is basically what you're adding with the driers.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:59 AM   #14
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So, do you not warranty paints if thinners or japan driers are added?

Could swear I've seen instructions that state the use of thinners is o.k.
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:19 AM   #15
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Most paint manufacturers don't like anything to be added to their products. Although we all know that sometimes water or thinner is needed to get the proper flow. Driers and extenders are usually frowned upon ( understandably) by manufacturers unless it is their specific brand being used ( properly ). Overusing driers can make the film brittle....overusing extenders can make the film soft.
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:44 AM   #16
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Uh.....was that the answer to the question?

And I am not trying to be difficult. Many if not all of the alkyds I've used has a recommended max amount of reducer that can be added.

As a paint distributor you have products to sell.

As a paint applier, I've got a business to run and a family to feed.

(These two goals are dependant on each other, not diametrically opposed.)

So, how about recommending a solution to the OP's problem?
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:48 AM   #17
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Deco, I'd use this;

Fres~Coat Troubleshooter® Fast Drying Alkyd Primer

This unique exterior primer provides superior performances as a base coat for all latex and oil base house paint. It is formulated for maximum breathability and resists tannin and sugar bleed staining from most exterior woods including pressboard siding and rust stains from nail heads. It dries in 4-6 hours for quick re-coat.

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Old 12-21-2009, 10:51 AM   #18
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Dealer locator.


http://www.californiapaints.com/DealerLocator.html
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCPaint1 View Post
Most paint manufacturers don't like anything to be added to their products. Although we all know that sometimes water or thinner is needed to get the proper flow. Driers and extenders are usually frowned upon ( understandably) by manufacturers unless it is their specific brand being used ( properly ). Overusing driers can make the film brittle....overusing extenders can make the film soft.
I am curious as well. Per BB's question, "do you not warranty paints if thinners or japan driers are added?" Is it warrantied or not? Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:10 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCPaint1 View Post
Even though a paint is low temp (35F) that doesent mean that it dries the same as warmer temps. Basically a good rule of thumb...every 10 Degrees below 70...double the dry time. So if a paint says 2 hours on the can....at 60F thats gonna be around 4 hours. Go from there.
I thought that was an answer.

But to be blunt.

No, do not do it, no manufacturer will back something applied improperly. It's below the application temperature....any warranty from the manufacturer will be void, call them and ask. I understand that you need the work, I need to sell paint too. BUT If someone wants to buy exterior paint, I'll advise them that its not a good idea, its too cold, and if it fails, its not my problem.

There is no loophole around it, and I know someones waiting for somebody to point it out. " Like, well it got up to 36F today for 20 minutes so I painted and now the paint has failed....I did it at the right temperature and all, the manufacturer is trying to screw me " *** waits for new thread to start ***
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