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Old 12-27-2018, 03:53 PM   #1
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Default Using HVLP to make product comparisons

For the 2018 holidays, I am conducting a comparison of the following products: ProClassic Acrylic Latex, Pro Classic Acrylic Alkyd, SW Emerald Urethane, Sherwood Pre-cat low gloss Lacquer, and Benjamin Moore Advance. Most of these will be in Satin and Semi-gloss so I can show samples to customers.

Woodwork to be covered
I bought some used cabinet doors that are presently stained and finished with presumably lacquer.

Priming Notes
The Precast Lacquer which will be primed with the specified Pre-cat Cover Surfacer.
All other pieces will be primed with Cover Stain by Zinnser.

Application Notes

I will be praying with a Titan HVLP and using a 4 or 5 tip. My experience with this unit is limited to a few projects. I have more experience with airless but want to give this a try for future cabinetry projects.

Any advice for spraying with these various products will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-27-2018, 08:18 PM   #2
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WHich titan HVLP do you have? i use the 115. try everything except the lacquer with a 5 first without thinning, switch to the 4 if it won't atomize. watch some youtube videos about dialing it in. Someone else will chime in hopefully about the tipsize for the lacquer, i don't have much experience with it. Let us know how everything goes please, In detail if you have the time.
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:13 AM   #3
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Thank you! I will do that! I also have the Titan 115 and its Specs also suggest the #5 projector set. Additionally, they recommend a 30-35 second run time through the viscosity cup. I have never used one but have watched a few YouTube instructions. My hope is to create a consistent viscosity that can be measured and recreated among all the products. From there, I will make and record adjustments fi needed for each product if needed in my journal.

Now all I need is my cup. Amazon is sending one.

Here are a few other questions:
1. Has anyone used a conditioner rather than water for thinning any of the paints mentioned in the original posts in order to allow for better leveling?
2. If so, what product do you suggest?
3. I know I need to apply a tack coat. How long should I wait before applying the main coat?
4. I know I need to paint the edges first and adjust my flow rate, air rate, distance from the surface, and speed of motion so that the paint is thick enough to congeal but not so thick that it runs. (That is why I have practice boards. LOL) But if you have any tips to make my life easier, I will be most grateful!
5. One I have all the products painted and hanging, I intend to run a heater to shorten dry times. I don't think this will cause any problems, but let me know if this is not good.

I will attempt to send pictures of what worked and what did not.
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:24 AM   #4
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I can only speak to spraying the Pro-Classic enamels, both acrylic and alkyd, through my Fiji HVLP.

First, I have not had good success spraying acrylic enamels with an HVLP without first thinning down the product so much that I felt the integrity of the product was being affected. Some here say that they have been able to do it so hopefully they will chime in.

I have had good success spraying oil based enamels from various manufacturers. Again, it. needs to be thinned for an HVLP but oil based enamels handle thinning better IMO.

Typically, when spraying, I use water for acrylic enamels (although since I spray acrylics with my airless I usually don’t thin them) and thinner for alkyds. When brushing and/or rolling, I prefer the acrylic and alkyd reducers by UMA over Flotroll.

Two other products you might look into since they are both readily available to you are SW’s Pro-Industrial Multi-Surface acrylic enamel and Breakthrough by PPG (Miller). Also, I believe Miller carries a pre-cat lacquer from Target Coatings which should be an excellent product like all of their line (my specific experience is with Target’s Emtech 8000 Pre-Cat Waterborne Conversion Varnish - great stuff).
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:35 AM   #5
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so what does this have to do with the thread title?
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:18 PM   #6
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I would ditch the Cover Stain for INSLX Stix. Why mess with an oil when Stix will stick better and clean up with water.
I have better luck painting my cabinet doors with my airless. I use Advance unthinned FFLP 208 tip.
I do use my HVLP (Compressor driven) for primers and more detailed furniture 2.0 tip, but it's much slower and you have to thin quite a bit. I thin my Advance with water, but it doesn't level as well with the HVLP..I find the air is drying it as it gos on..
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Old 12-29-2018, 02:07 AM   #7
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I wouldnt spray any of those with an HVLP.
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:30 AM   #8
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Thank you for the information! I appreciate it.
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:42 AM   #9
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so what does this have to do with the thread title?
My apologies. I am brand new to this forum and am still figuring it all out. How do I add a title to the whole thread? I see the title box above this reply box but I am not sure that is the right place to correct the issue.
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:49 AM   #10
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I wouldn't spray any of those with an HVLP.
Thanks for your advice. I liked the lacquer finish but I started with Advance next. It required a lot of thinning. (I used water.) It did not level out well and not match the surfaces achieved with an airless, a roller, or brush.

Unless someone has a tip to make these work better, I am going to heed your advice and save some time.
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finishesbykevyn View Post
I would ditch the Cover Stain for INSLX Stix. Why mess with an oil when Stix will stick better and clean up with water.
I have better luck painting my cabinet doors with my airless. I use Advance unthinned FFLP 208 tip.
I do use my HVLP (Compressor driven) for primers and more detailed furniture 2.0 tip, but it's much slower and you have to thin quite a bit. I thin my Advance with water, but it doesn't level as well with the HVLP..I find the air is drying it as it gos on..
Thanks. I will give Stix a try. Additionally, I had the same poor result with Advance from my hvlp. Do you lay your doors flat and do one side at a time or hang them on a hanger and do both sides at once. I have been using the hanger but it does create the risk of sags.
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Old 01-03-2019, 04:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Visser View Post
Thanks. I will give Stix a try. Additionally, I had the same poor result with Advance from my hvlp. Do you lay your doors flat and do one side at a time or hang them on a hanger and do both sides at once. I have been using the hanger but it does create the risk of sags.
I lay mine flat to dry on dry racks that I have. One side at a time. It allows the Advance to really level off..

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Old 01-03-2019, 07:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Visser View Post
My apologies. I am brand new to this forum and am still figuring it all out. How do I add a title to the whole thread? I see the title box above this reply box but I am not sure that is the right place to correct the issue.
No apologies needed. Changed for you.
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:17 PM   #14
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RH what is your preferred method for applying the emtech 8000? im guessing an HVLP, but more specifically what needle size? and is it like lacquer? where it takes several coats? fill me in, i d like to try that product
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