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Old 07-27-2018, 04:28 PM   #1
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Default valspar cabinet enamel help

So, I refinish furniture. Im new to it but doing it as my job. Short version is i bought valspar cabinet enamel to replace my prior paint.. a few gallons of it im about to go try and return. It doesnt say latex anywhere on the can that i saw but its latex..and terrible.



Edit: i should add the dressers were primed with bin shellac




Balls up when sanded and comes off with any quantity of water.. im glad i found this out before selling anything painted in this garbage. I spilled water on the top of a dresser painted in this and went to wipe it.. and the paint came off.. I have 3 dressers painted that i dont know how to save now.. Moving forward though i plan to find cabinet coat and sware off valspar anything forever.


What can i do with these things?

Last edited by countyoungblood; 07-27-2018 at 05:39 PM..
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Old 07-28-2018, 01:28 AM   #2
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I'd probably try a clear coat over the finish at this point....that or strip it. It's a dresser....I like minwax hybrid floor poly. There's a bunch of options out there...pick your flavor.
The way I see it what's the worst that could happen? You have to strip it anyway? Just pick one that is water clear...or close anyway.

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Old 07-28-2018, 08:00 AM   #3
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My topcoat has been BM:stay clear and i believe i could touch up two of the dressers to reach an ok finish but i had been struggling with one of them and tried rolling a coat on the top in an attempt to fill the minor indentations left after skim coating with durums wood putty. The paint there now is pretty thick.. Im painting these to sell and i dont want the finish to fail. I could clear coat the crap out of them but would it penitrate or just sit on the surface?



Sorry for all the green hand questions im learning everything through my own research and trial/error. Honestly concidering looking for a cabinet painter to apprentice under.
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:46 AM   #4
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Valspar cabinet enamel is not very good. It is better for cabinets and trim than their other products. But what does that actually tell you. Cabinet Coat, Ultraplate, and a bunch of other products are much, much better for cabinets and trim. P&L Accolade is a pretty good product too.
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:58 AM   #5
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It appears that the learning has begun. If they are not worth stripping I would just throw them away. Dont want to put out a bad product. You need to develop your stripping processes anyway so I would bite the bullet and strip it and try again. General Finishes makes a fine line of acrylics (they call milk paint), glazes, stains, and waterbased topcoats in all sheens. General Finishes has a good website that will give you a lot of design suggestions and how to achieve it with their products. I have used these products to do a few peices with excellent success. You will need to practice your process before slapping it on a whole peice.

I have a friend that does this work for a living and his process has evolved over the years. He gets peices from hotel remodels for next to nothing, puts a rustic white finish on it, sometimes puts some color in with some glazes, topcoats it with GF High performance flat or satin, sits it outside his shop, and sells it same day. His process was a little different 3 years ago... He painted everything green. I have never seen him do a clear refinish...he paints everything.

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Old 07-28-2018, 04:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tprice2193 View Post
It appears that the learning has begun. If they are not worth stripping I would just throw them away. Dont want to put out a bad product. You need to develop your stripping processes anyway so I would bite the bullet and strip it and try again. General Finishes makes a fine line of acrylics (they call milk paint), glazes, stains, and waterbased topcoats in all sheens. General Finishes has a good website that will give you a lot of design suggestions and how to achieve it with their products. I have used these products to do a few peices with excellent success. You will need to practice your process before slapping it on a whole peice.

I have a friend that does this work for a living and his process has evolved over the years. He gets peices from hotel remodels for next to nothing, puts a rustic white finish on it, sometimes puts some color in with some glazes, topcoats it with GF High performance flat or satin, sits it outside his shop, and sells it same day. His process was a little different 3 years ago... He painted everything green. I have never seen him do a clear refinish...he paints everything.
This is good advice. It isn't cheap though. I've used it on cabinets with enduro clear poly. The hp poly is good stuff too.
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:22 PM   #7
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@mug - yes the Enduro line is excellent. Try the Enduro White poly on those cabinets. May save you some time.
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Old 07-29-2018, 03:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by countyoungblood View Post
My topcoat has been BM:stay clear and i believe i could touch up two of the dressers to reach an ok finish but i had been struggling with one of them and tried rolling a coat on the top in an attempt to fill the minor indentations left after skim coating with durums wood putty. The paint there now is pretty thick.. Im painting these to sell and i dont want the finish to fail. I could clear coat the crap out of them but would it penitrate or just sit on the surface?



Sorry for all the green hand questions im learning everything through my own research and trial/error. Honestly concidering looking for a cabinet painter to apprentice under.
Stays clear is film forming, not a penetrating product. So is paint. I'm confused.
When in doubt, test it out!!
Try it on a drawer or small, flat surface then decide.

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Old 07-29-2018, 10:23 AM   #9
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@PACman yeah im starting to understand not to trust whats written on the front.. or valspar at all.
Actually went looking for cabinet coat and couldnt find it conveniently so settled for this junk. Ive been reading on here about how much people like cc but i wasnt stubborn enough to insist on findinging a dealer..


@Tprice2163 well it started two months ago with a different brand of better spraying but not durable enough paint.. Ive been changing and upgrading things one at a time and this one just happened to get me good. Not to say two months is any depth at all but this isnt my first mistake maybe at least 10th or so.

@lilpaintchic


Is there such a thing as a penitrating clear coat thats compatible with disguised latex?
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