Doing a 15,000 square foot q deck and block walls. Deck is going from dark gray to white. Its an auto dealership and they have been wrenching in there for roughly 40 years. Historically, we have used Devoe's Unigrip Modified Epoxy Flat Dry Fog Primer and Finish because it has a lot of stick and a lot of hide with minimal to no prep.
Do you guys have any experience with SW Alkyd Dryfall? I'm debating going that route because its less than half the price, but I don't want to have any issues with hideability or stickability. This is a one coat job I'll try get some pics up tonight...
Also, the block walls, they are a bit grimy (previously painted), but not disgustlingly. I will clean the bottom 8' or so with a good prepaint detergent and not planning on much above that. In the past we have used an assortment of latexs and waterborne epoxies. The epoxies stick better, but a lot of times need two coats in areas. Any recommendations for solid coverage on the wall paint?
I used to like the alkyd Dryfall. Whatever kind. Sherwin was the same as Ben Moore same as Pittsburgh same as whoever far as I could tell. You never had to have it hanging(literally) over ur head for the rest of the job after you shot the deck. The oil. It stuck it killed every kinda stain and I think it was easier to work with, creature comforts Wize. I think that water based crap down the road we're gonna find out. It's gonna kill us all. Earlier.
Seriously, what you've proposed is probably as good as anything, although I'd be tempted to add some sort of waiver. Water and CMU's are rarely a happy combination. I'd hate to get called back about those blisters.
I doubt they are losse enuff to knock off with air. Maybe but I doubt it. Just scrape em off right? Some 40 grit sandpaper maybe. Whatever works. The oil will kill whatever residue is left. If the deck is going flat you won't see a sign they were there. If it is going with a sheen, eeh, you will see their outline just a bit if you choose too. Where you scaped em off. Not much. And only if you want to see em, flat will hide everything.
<<<crickets>>> Seriously, what you've proposed is probably as good as anything, although I'd be tempted to add some sort of waiver. Water and CMU's are rarely a happy combination. I'd hate to get called back about those blisters.
Just saw. The blisters are on the block. And the deck is raw still. Or looks it. That place is gonna pop with that deck white.
Sure. Knock the blisters off with a Greek knife on a pole, who cares? And paint it. There just might be water getting into that block from the roof maybe? Might happen again. Maybe not. One way to find out. Paint it.
My thing is stick with what you know, test a new product on a smaller job.
From my minimal experience with dryfall, oil is oil.
For the block walls what about Pitt glaze (I've never used it), or breakthough (haven't used it yet), or even Pitt Tech?
Greek knife.... long thin dagger with a bunch of ornate scribings in the handle. Usually rusty.... very few in existence.... most roughly 2500 years old....?
Greek knife is a lot shorter and catchier than burn-off-scraper. Too many syllables. Lol
Greeks run diners. But they paint too. A lot if not most of the steel painters are Greeks. Here anyhow.
'Get dee rugs.' The Greek says.
'Rugs? What rugs?' Says I back.
'Dee rugs. Oer dare. Get dee rugs' he is getting excited now, the Greek is.
'WTF. What are u talking about. Rugs? We don't have no rugs." Back at him. A little miffed now also.
'Dee rugs! You see we have dee white ones and dee blue ones. Oer dare. Dee rugs!" He says
'Oooooh' I say realizing. 'Rags mullacha. We say it rags'
Mullacha is a term of endearment. They do not like. Lol
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