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Old 10-13-2012, 10:30 AM   #1
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Default a new technique. spraying water based tinted laquer

a new technique. spraying water based tinted laquer-forumrunner_20121013_072752.jpg

Bare maple

a new technique. spraying water based tinted laquer-forumrunner_20121013_072802.jpg



a new technique. spraying water based tinted laquer-forumrunner_20121013_072826.jpg

Im curious as to what you guys charge for railing? That is if you are in new construction. I charge $22.00/ft. Total length of this is 20ft. A little over 4 hours time into with prep.
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Old 10-13-2012, 01:17 PM   #2
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What product did you use.
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:02 PM   #3
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:47 AM   #4
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Default We have used ML Cambell

A few years ago; we finished a job started by another contractor and used ML Campell water base tinted Lacquer; the results seems identical for application and performance...just seems the vehicle was water vs. hot solvent.

The misconception is that the water lacquer is safer or greener. It was developed for spec writers and versions of it have been around for years.

In the long run the lacquer stuff wears poorly on traffic substrates. You just dont notice it (as much) on clears over show quality wood.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:27 PM   #5
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Opps! I meant to put waterbourne laquer. The product was made by enduragreen, which is cdi I believe. Its a product made by general paint in Canada.
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:44 PM   #6
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A few years ago; we finished a job started by another contractor and used ML Campell water base tinted Lacquer; the results seems identical for application and performance...just seems the vehicle was water vs. hot solvent.

The misconception is that the water lacquer is safer or greener. It was developed for spec writers and versions of it have been around for years.

In the long run the lacquer stuff wears poorly on traffic substrates. You just dont notice it (as much) on clears over show quality wood.
Lacquer is popular with the woodworking and cabinet shops because they can crank out products finished with it in a hurry. Short re-coat times mean that their finishing/drying areas aren't tied up for long. We often get called it to refinish their products after a few short years. I get tired of having to explain to clients why the "factory finish" on their cabinets didn't last very long.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:23 PM   #7
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From what I've read I don't believe lacquers are inferior at all, If anything they provide more protection then paint.

those lacquer jobs that fail in a short time span is because of improper application or techniques. The same could be said about paint.

Nice work, what brand lacquer did you use? I want to start using waterborne lacquers from a company called Target coatings; I hear nothing but good stuff.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:29 PM   #8
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I have just started using wb lacquer for our cabinet refinishes. There are a couple of hurdles I had to overcome wrt application, but the results are fantastic.

I have been using sw kem aqua plus on our current job and have a thread I will be updating with all the details as they progress. I have some new pics that are uploading atm to the album.

https://www.painttalk.com/f24/restori...unty-nc-20937/
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:17 AM   #9
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I have lacquered a million miles of cabinets and trim in my career. It is my take that lacquer can be mis-applied as with any finish. In my business, I believe that there is no easier finish to repair as nitro-cellulose lacquer. Very minimal prep and the finish can be restored and then properly applied for lasting protection and beauty. Just my opinion. Bob.
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:24 AM   #10
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Am I missing something? From the title I expected a new application process or product.
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:13 PM   #11
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what kind of sprayer did you use?
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:24 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by straight_lines View Post
I have just started using wb lacquer for our cabinet refinishes. There are a couple of hurdles I had to overcome wrt application, but the results are fantastic.

I have been using sw kem aqua plus on our current job and have a thread I will be updating with all the details as they progress. I have some new pics that are uploading atm to the album.

https://www.painttalk.com/f24/restori...unty-nc-20937/

Hey Tommy, If you have any tips, I'm thinking of using a wb lacquer for a real small cabinet job, customer is kinda asking for it. I really want to avoid the regular nasty stuff and give the wb a shot. Right now the cabinets are mostly mdf.

My concerns are: mdf - most of the wb lacquers are self sealing. not a fan of putting water right on mdf as it typically soaks it up like a sponge. I would like to seal them first with something else.

Second concern is I only have a turbine hvlp, and the heat might cause orange peel more then usual.

Any other tips would be great

Pat
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:15 AM   #13
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Pat the surfacer works great with mdf. Just sand really good, I go up to 320 on profiles before primer.

Using wb lacquer takes some practice. It's a finicky product that behaves different. Play with it Pat. 1.8 needle set.
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:51 AM   #14
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Ok, another question, I see Dunn Edwards here is having a sell on the valspar stuff. what is the difference between the Pre-catalyzed vs the one on the top, I see the pre stuff is more expensive.

This lacquer stuff is new to me, I always turned down these type of jobs. But I wanna give it a shot now.

Pat
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Old 05-22-2014, 11:23 PM   #15
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Just want to update this, I did wind up using the valspar undercoater and the semi gloss from the above add. Used a graco edge cup gun, a 3 stage old beat up graco 1200 machine. The fluid needle was the stock #3. For the primer, I added just a smidge of water. The primer was freaking awesome, in 15 - 20 minutes, it sanded really great, complete powder. I put two coats on these mdf cabinets.

I used the semi gloss waterborne valspar lacquer. again just a smidge of water, maybe a 1/4 dixie cup worth and did 3 coats. Stuff dries very fast, you can sand it in about 25-30 minutes. However it did not sand all that great. clogged the paper and little balls was forming. If you did not get them off they seemed to stick to the surface. So a damp rag was used.

Very happy with the outcome. Painting mdf cabinets are a pain though. The edges and the router out parts were really rough. I had to finger spackle then damp rag it after a bit to smooth the mdf stuff out.

Few pics below, again not the greatest photos, seems I need to get a better flash as my new Tokina lens is to big or something. Leaves a small shadow.

The large door on the right will be covered with a mirror, so not allot of detail was spent on it.

Pat
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Old 05-23-2014, 01:55 AM   #16
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Pat, to answer your lacquer question if not already. Precats are catalyzed at the factory and have a shelf life, depends on the product. Most stores do not know, so always check for old product. The have better water resistance than a regular lacquer, so for kitchen and bath cabinets they are a better choice. CV you add the hardener on site, short pot life, mix what you need for the day. Much more water resistance than the two above.

Did you lacquer all the crown, doors, and trim?
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:34 AM   #17
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Pat, to answer your lacquer question if not already. Precats are catalyzed at the factory and have a shelf life, depends on the product. Most stores do not know, so always check for old product. The have better water resistance than a regular lacquer, so for kitchen and bath cabinets they are a better choice. CV you add the hardener on site, short pot life, mix what you need for the day. Much more water resistance than the two above.

Did you lacquer all the crown, doors, and trim?
Thanks Mike for the explanation. Asked another guy lacquer guy at the paint store and he just said it's a harder finish.

Advance was used for all the other trim, Doors and frames were old and already had massive brush lines, the crown and base which I installed was new, but I just wanted it to match the other trim.

Pat
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