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-   -   Another paint noob from Souther Cali (https://www.painttalk.com/f3/another-paint-noob-souther-cali-3303/)

woodtradesman 10-06-2008 08:21 PM

Another paint noob from Souther Cali
 
Hi All

First I would to point out how great it is to have good sources of information such as this place and contractortalk. anyhow,I am a woodworker, cabinet maker and finish carpenter by trade from the Los Angeles area . I recently became interested in the idea of spray painting some of my built-ins after I spray painted a built-in I made for my place and enjoyed the process. I would like to learn about spray painting as much as possible so I'll be around asking a few question here and there and providing some answers of my own so I'll be seeing you all around.

timhag 10-06-2008 08:34 PM

welcome from Pittsburgh.

cole191919 10-06-2008 08:38 PM

Hey wood, welcome from Canada.
Some of these may help if your lookin for spray info:

https://www.painttalk.com/search.php?searchid=101491
https://www.painttalk.com/search.php?searchid=101484
https://www.painttalk.com/search.php?searchid=101486
https://www.painttalk.com/search.php?searchid=101488

woodtradesman 10-06-2008 09:36 PM

Thanks Tim.

Cole. thanks for the search links. If you can believe it, much of the info on those links I found googling stuff around, thats how I found PaintTalk. there is a bunch of good info at ContractorTalk as well. I am sure there is still much be found on both sites though.

So far I know that I want an air assisted airless sprayer with FF tips ranging from 208 to 410 (orifices size 8 to 12), most likely I'll grab a graco profinish 390 or 395. I already own an airless I fitted with a 210 FF tip which gave me good results on my face frames but I want less overspray. As far a what paint types I will need I have come to conclude that latex paints won't work for me (I was hired to fit new doors on a existing set kitchen cabinets. The paint crew that came in painted the kitchen cabinets with latex paint that stayed tacky for weeks, didn't was very well, and looked down right awful). I asked around what waterborne paint wooks good on wood and I was told to stick with 100% acrylics, so far I have tried DE permasheen, SW proclassic, SW All Surface and ICI dulux ultra, All of which yielded desirable results but proclassic came on top. primers are a different story, so far I have tried kilz primers in original formula and water base, the waterbase didn't do much for me and the original tended to adhere less to my topcoats (maybe I sanded the primer too smooth?). I also tried ICI gripper gray which does what it advertises but is freaking tough to sand.

Any how I got take a trip to vegas to do an out of town job so I"ll be posting next week

tsunamicontract 10-06-2008 09:44 PM

I would not get a Graco finish pro if you already have an airless. get a real hvlp set up. that way you have both. The down side to the FP is that you have to waste a lot of material for small jobs because you can't use a cup gun. save yourself some money and get a 4stage turbine with a pressure pot and cup gun. that way you will have options. I needed two airless for doubling up on exteriors, thats why I bought a FP. But I still want a real HVLP for small things. Plus the FP gun is super expensive to maintain.

timhag 10-06-2008 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodtradesman (Post 42677)
Thanks Tim.

Cole. thanks for the search links. If you can believe it, much of the info on those links I found googling stuff around, thats how I found PaintTalk. there is a bunch of good info at ContractorTalk as well. I am sure there is still much be found on both sites though.

So far I know that I want an air assisted airless sprayer with FF tips ranging from 208 to 410 (orifices size 8 to 12), most likely I'll grab a graco profinish 390 or 395. I already own an airless I fitted with a 210 FF tip which gave me good results on my face frames but I want less overspray. As far a what paint types I will need I have come to conclude that latex paints won't work for me (I was hired to fit new doors on a existing set kitchen cabinets. The paint crew that came in painted the kitchen cabinets with latex paint that stayed tacky for weeks, didn't was very well, and looked down right awful). I asked around what waterborne paint wooks good on wood and I was told to stick with 100% acrylics, so far I have tried DE permasheen, SW proclassic, SW All Surface and ICI dulux ultra, All of which yielded desirable results but proclassic came on top. primers are a different story, so far I have tried kilz primers in original formula and water base, the waterbase didn't do much for me and the original tended to adhere less to my topcoats (maybe I sanded the primer too smooth?). I also tried ICI gripper gray which does what it advertises but is freaking tough to sand.

Any how I got take a trip to vegas to do an out of town job so I"ll be posting next week

Bring back lots of money:thumbsup:

tsunamicontract 10-06-2008 09:47 PM

oh, and on paints, slowly put down the can of kilz, raise both hands, and slowly back away. PPG seal grip or something from zinsser might work better. on painted cabinets maybe cover stain, sanded then top coat. I don't paint cabinets, but I have had really good luck with the SW ASE (waterbased) on door thresholds for durability. Its supposed to be a cross between porch and floor enamel and DTM. Good stuff.

woodtradesman 10-06-2008 10:10 PM

Timbag, I wish, I can't gamble for worth of crap. I tell you what though, If you set a side 40 bucks and spend'em on the nicke or penny one arm bandits you'll have some fun.

Tsunamy, the sprayer that I have isn't by any means anything that will last me a while so I'll need to grab a better one before this one breaks. As far as the amount of material goes I'll be spraying 2 to 3 gallons at a time on mostly the exterior of my cabinets and wood work but I will also have to paint large built-ins such as book cases or glass door cabinets inside out from time to time. Yeah I learned the hard way to put away the kilz, it sands smooth but my topcoats didn't adhere to it very well, I had better results with gripper but man! you would thing your sanding a boulder when sanding time comes. I'll give the stuff you mentioned a try.

tsunamicontract 10-06-2008 11:33 PM

yah woody, just trying to help ya out. I just don't think a FP 395 would be great for a cabinet/woodworker guy. Its really an airless that you can switch to air assisted. its not an hvlp. plus you always have to drag two hoses around with your $700 gun. What kind of airless do you have? And you almost don't need one with an HVLP as long as you are not painting exteriors or production with it.

woodtradesman 10-07-2008 01:42 AM

Thanks for the info tsunami. how is the FP gun expensive to maintain? the airless that I have is the one that goes for $550 at home creepo (handmedown from my bro)

tsunamicontract 10-07-2008 09:13 AM

well, the fancy thing that shoots the air out clogged on me. I sprayed maybe 3 gallons through it. The replacement part costs SW $85. So retail it would have been like at least $150. They gave it to me for $1 over cost because they felt bad.

tsunamicontract 10-07-2008 09:14 AM

oh, and you could get yourself a "real" airless (a titan 440i or Graco 390) and an HVLP for less than a FP 395


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