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Old 03-11-2012, 09:12 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Regs View Post
We were using the 20 min lightweight easysand never had a problem over years I hope it was just some movement and shrinkage in wood that made them pop back out a little, what do you think? You don't think they are all going to start poppin back do ya? I don't have a solution if that happened.thanks for the help guys.
I've never had it happen, and I hope it don't happen to you
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:08 AM   #22
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I am sure there others like me who on repaints have come across mud filled nail holes that are failing.

Not many of us get back to many NC jobs a year or so after they are completed, so the only opportunity to judge what processes don't hold up is on repaints of other people's work - unless, of course the motivation is to have the job look good for six months.



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Old 03-12-2012, 08:40 AM   #23
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I use mud on high end, green top all purpose.
Never had a problem.
Quickdry would be a sanding nightmare.

Learned it from a guy who restores furniture.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:07 AM   #24
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I use a 50/50 mix of elmers wood filler & joint compound. Drys fast, no shrinkage & easy to sand.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:29 AM   #25
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welcome to the forum
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:00 PM   #26
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I use putty(window glazing) to fill nail holes. I take a hand full of it throw it on the ground, roll it in the drywall dust to get it to the right consistancy. Its very fast and if you fill the hole just right and level you're done. No need to go back and sand.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob547 View Post
I use putty(window glazing) to fill nail holes. I take a hand full of it throw it on the ground, roll it in the drywall dust to get it to the right consistancy. Its very fast and if you fill the hole just right and level you're done. No need to go back and sand.
Bob, we do that with 95% of our work also but we do use the compound on some jobs to. The compound is a much nicer look and it does last....it is a more time consuming system though
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:08 PM   #28
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How many jobs have you gone back to for you to assess whether it holds up?
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:01 PM   #29
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We had used that method in the past, just Aquaglaze and some whiting now. They both work, and hold up. I have been on many of our older NC jobs and see the holdout first hand. No problems whatsoever.

Last edited by KEEGS; 03-12-2012 at 11:18 PM..
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:37 AM   #30
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If you use Water Putty and Scalding hot water it will dry fast, the colder the water the longer it takes to setup.

I use wood putty on trim but i have seen guys use mud (greet top {light weight)) on it.

I've seen a old school wood worker take elmer's and sawdust to fix areas that were going to be stained. It made it look like a knot when he was done.
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