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3/8 or 1/2 on drywall

  • 3/8

    Votes: 18 40.0%
  • 1/2

    Votes: 27 60.0%

3/8 vs 1/2 on drywall

155K views 112 replies 37 participants last post by  finishesbykevyn 
#1 · (Edited)
Alright, I have been here for a couple weeks now and have worked up the courage to ask this question and risk being the only one who uses a 3/8 nap sleeve for topcoats on already primed/painted drywall.

I have come across many references in past threads to 1/2 are larger and want to know if this is being used on primed/painted non-textured drywall.

I understand that a 1/2 holds more paint, but in my experience it leaves a unwanted texture on a wall that should be smooth. And is it really even nesaccary if doing 2 coats anyway.
 
#59 ·
Jack has a lot of great input and info. Thats what I love about painttalk; there are at least ten (or more) members who have such a great depth of knowledge that I can benefit from. Thanks guys, because of you, I sound waaay more knowledgeable on job sites!
 
#69 ·
I had a very seasoned painter, He is in his late 70's and still going, tell me once if you want a really smooth wall to use a 1/2 inch nap roller on your first coat and a 3/8 on your next coat. He explained to me that the 1/2 lays a good base and the 3/8 fills in creating a smoother finished product! This customer did not like to see texture at all and spraying was not an option.
 
#70 ·
I had a very seasoned painter, He is in his late 70's and still going, tell me once if you want a really smooth wall to use a 1/2 inch nap roller on your first coat and a 3/8 on your next coat. He explained to me that the 1/2 lays a good base and the 3/8 fills in creating a smoother finished product! This customer did not like to see texture at all and spraying was not an option.
Wow a high roller!:)
 
#73 ·
Never liked anything but a 3/8. But we rarely were faced with textured walls.

and now that most of my coatings are thinner prep coat or even gardz, 3/8 allows less splatter, less chains, and more product where it belongs.

Even when others say use a 1/2 for some pastes, I still get better control and more even coverage with a 3/8.
 
#76 ·
as with anything else in painting...it all depends on the job. I can cover some serious ground with a 3/8 18" or a 9" 1/2. If im in a small powder room Im using a 9" 3/8. In a small but high foyer 9" 1/2. Long commercial hallway, 1/2 18". So on and so forth. Then is it new rock or old rock with years of homeowner jobs on it? This is an argument that cant be won.

by the way the only roller I like anymore it the Arrowworthy micro-fiber. Its the best in all sizes/naps. Ill bet the house on it!
 
#77 ·
Wills & Wood,

you will notice that your little exchange of "pleasantries" has been deleted, please take that action as a warning to be respectful of all members here on PT as the terms of service describes.

thank you
 
#86 ·
Suggesting someone "learn" how to paint and operates out of the back of a station wagon is not being helpful. Changing from 3/8 to 1/2 nap does not require any "learning".

You don't know who you are talking to on this forum. For all you know, I had a successful business with a significant client base while you were still breastfeeding. You don't know much about a lot of the guys on this forum, many of which have forgotten more about painting than you will ever know.

Your tone is disrespectful and your comments are demeaning. If the mods won't deal with you, then I'll certainly help you understand how this virtual community operates. It's with respect, decency and a fellowship towards our fellow painters. If you can't grasp that, then you are going to have a rough time here.
 
#102 ·
There should no difference in finish between a 3/8", 1/2" or 3/4" pro doo z for example. If you are getting a difference then its likely to be that the load of paint is not being distributed properly over the area. The 1/2" pro doo z is certainly capable of laying down a solid 10 mil wet film. 10 mil does not look heavy on a wall, 20 mil does.

if you were to look at a 3/8, 1/2 and a 3/4 wet and loaded but after the paint was applied to the wall--all three look alike.
 
#103 ·
Looking around...I can't find the Metric options to check in the survey...I figured that was why Scotiadawg was so quiet in this thread .:yes::yes:

We use as a rule 25-30Mill on ceilings for priming and finishing with flat ceiling White and we also use the 30Mill for priming on walls and switch to 15-19mill for Eggshell finishes on walls .

I think it would take forever with a 3/8 or 10mill roller to do any amount of new gyproc...but I guess it is what you get used to using . I don't remember anybody ever complaining about the finish when we are done and we have been doing it for around 30 years or so . As a rule we usually always do 1 Prime and 2 finish on new gyproc... ceilings included .

On the 6 panel pre primed cheap doors which I'll use as an example... we usually roll them with a worn 19mill roller that takes 2 coats .
 
#105 ·
As we rarely see texture on walls, we use 3/8. I find 3/4 leaves too much stipple. That said, if I have to do a rental untit and price is the driving factor, I give out the 3/4 lambskin rollers and tell the guys to load them up.
 
#106 ·
I do like to use a 1/2 most time now, however when I was doing apartments and schools I used 3/4. On some colors with a good flat wall I might use a 3/8s. If it's smooth I'll try to keep it smooth, If its a good wall with a slight texture I'll use a 1/2 on the 1st and a 3/8 on the top make it look a little smoother. I'll shine 1200w lights down the length of the wall to make sure there are not any areas being hidden by the slight texture before trying to make it smother.

IMO some colors look better with a smooth wall when reflecting a light sources. It's not always about just the paint but the effect of lighting on the area. Even when using a flat sometimes a smoother finish is worth the extra time.

I'd rather make a few less $$ an hour if the end result is a higher quality finish. Then again I don't just paint for the money, I actually enjoy doing a good job.

In short I use the nap I think will result in the effect i am looking to accomplish not just get the paint from the can to the wall the fastest.

b

PS: I roll the ceilings also 1/2 (90% are textured here).
 
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#107 ·
Do-Honey said:
I do like to use a 1/2 most time now, however when I was doing apartments and schools I used 3/4. On some colors with a good flat wall I might use a 3/8s. If it's smooth I'll try to keep it smooth, If its a good wall with a slight texture I'll use a 1/2 on the 1st and a 3/8 on the top make it look a little smoother. I'll shine 1200w lights down the length of the wall to make sure there are not any areas being hidden by the slight texture before trying to make it smother.

IMO some colors look better with a smooth wall when reflecting a light sources. It's not always about just the paint but the effect of lighting on the area. Even when using a flat sometimes a smoother finish is worth the extra time.

I'd rather make a few less $$ an hour if the end result is a higher quality finish. Then again I don't just paint for the money, I actually enjoy doing a good job.

In short I use the nap I think will result in the effect i am looking to accomplish not just get the paint from the can to the wall the fastest.

b

PS: I roll the ceilings also 1/2 (90% are textured here).
Nice one!

I sometimes load up both a 3/8 nap and a mo hair just to get it on and then to tailor the finish with no hair of other naps.

Good to see people thinkin outside the painters legalistic box!!!
 
#108 ·
For smooth walls i like to go with 3/8 although 1/2 first coat and 3/8 second coat sounds like a good way to go. 1/2 on the ceiling is good. Most of the job tends to be prep so the cut-in/rolling is by far the easiest part. If the job involves mostly straight painting then i would start to think about lager rollers with thicker naps. Roller techniques are important too - crosshatching makes for good coverage and minimal stipple. Stipple seems to be more of a factor with any type of gloss paint. If there's a sheen i like to crosshatch and then finish with a floor to ceiling roll, taking the room section by section. You get a nice finish that way.
 
#109 ·
For smooth walls i like to go with 3/8 although 1/2 first coat and 3/8 second coat sounds like a good way to go. 1/2 on the ceiling is good. Most of the job tends to be prep so the cut-in/rolling is by far the easiest part. If the job involves mostly straight painting then i would start to think about lager rollers with thicker naps. Roller techniques are important too - crosshatching makes for good coverage and minimal stipple. Stipple seems to be more of a factor with any type of gloss paint. If there's a sheen i like to crosshatch and then finish with a floor to ceiling roll, taking the room section by section. You get a nice finish that way.

please explain:001_huh:
 
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