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Aluminum Boat - Best Product?

4K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  RH 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay everyone, at the risk of this sounding like a DIYer post, I have an aluminum boat (my own) that needs painting on the outside. Ideas of best product for adhesion? Not going to do the very bottom because rocks make that a lost cause but would like to freshen up the rest of it. No rust of course due to the aluminum base, just typical wear and tear stuff that has it looking a bit worn. Will just be white, likely in a semi-gloss sheen. Have access to SW, Miller (and so Kelly Moore), and BM.
Thanks,
Dan

Note - at this point leaning towards using SW Pro-Industrial Multi-Surface enamel due to easy availability. But certainly open to other ideas.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Dan - if you drop over to visit TinBoats.net, you will find tons
of info about aluminum boats. repair, maintenance, painting, etc.
priming and painting on that forum is as intense as "how do I paint my kitchen"
here on this site.
first of all, photos of your boat will be of great help to get the accurate feedback.
I have been a member there for several years and have
written a few articles on aluminum boat painting.
depending on the condition of your boat, condition of the existing paint,
any corrosion to deal with, and the waters you boat in
and how often will dictate the methods of priming and painting an aluminum boat.
do you want to just touch up the existing paint or do a full sand down and repaint.
any repairs or loose rivets to deal with? any decals to be removed?
a great place to drop your anchor and sit a spell.
 

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#7 ·
Johnny - assume it was you that wrote the article on Varnishes versus Polyurethanes? Excellent article. I am in awe of the amount of info in it and your obvious knowledge of the subject.

Although My boat is aluminum, it does have teak bench seat tops which need refinishing. At the risk of seeming lazy, can you recommend a good top coat product (by name) for them? They are pretty raw and unprotected at this point but I plan on giving them a good sanding prior to refinishing. Boat will get moderate amount of use so UV (as well as water) exposure to the wood would also be relatively low. Fresh water use of the boat only. Cost of product isn’t really an issue and I should be able to give each of the three benches multiple coats with a quart.

Thanks very much,
Dan
 
#8 · (Edited)
YVW Dan - the TinBoat website covers all the concerns of Aluminum Boating.
not just the boat itself, but, woodwork, motors, electrical, trailers, wheels,
fishfinder & GPS electronics and "some" basic seamanship guidance
that help the novice boaters get around safely on our waterways.
I have been in and around boats since early childhood and have
learned many things through trial and error (mostly error).
yes - I wrote the articles on primers and varnish vs poly.
I also hang my hat at Wooden Boat.com and LumberJocks.com
which are heavy into fabrication of wooden projects as well as
finishing and refinishing. with the EPA constantly putting intense
pressure on the paint and coatings industry as a whole, it is hard to keep up
with the ever changing product ingredients as well as their performance.
what may have worked like crazy 5 years ago, will not be available today.
the hard oily woods require a specific regiment of varnishing or it will fail.
there are many articles on the Wooden Boat forum that covers teak finishing.
basically ~ teak is sanded smooth and wiped down deeply with acetone before
the finish coats. Epifanes and Pettit Captain's Spar Varnish have the
highest UV protection available (so most say).
Epifanes is as thick as honey and requires considerable thinning.
Pettit is normal viscosity and is more user friendly.
the standard curriculum for Spar Varnish on a boat is:
1st coat ~ 50/50 dilution with 100% mineral spirits.
2nd coat ~ 25% dilution
3rd coat ~ 15%
4th and successive coats ~ 10%
all coats after the 6th coat full strength or cut 5% for easy brushing.
for the fullest UV protection, 8 to 15 coats are required, 24 hours apart.
Teak Oil is not really specifically for teak at all. it is just plain 100% Tung Oil
diluted accordingly and sold as such. the name is strictly a marketing ploy
for sales. example: Tung Oil with a spritz of citrus can be marketed as
Furniture Tung Oil (or Tung Oil Finish) or Furniture Lemon Oil.
Rosewood, Teak, Oak, Cocobolo oils, yada, yada yada are basically the same mixture.
Tung Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, Minwax Spar Urethane have zero UV blockers.
thus - the aggravation factor kicks in when the finish starts to fail after a
short time when used outside.
my article on Varnish vs Polyurethane is pretty explanatory.
I have a few books on Marine Finishes, Varnishing and Wood Finishing
that I get some of my information from as well as personal lifetime experiences.
I have owned several boats over the years. wood, fiberglass and aluminum.
all have their own unique painting requirements. and all are FUN !!!
sorry for the lengthy response - hope this helps with your project.
(oh, don't just finish the tops of the seats, but the bottoms also).
and as all of us painters know: temperature and humidity have a LOT
to do with how a finish turns out in the end.
but - for natural oils, one must research deeply as to how it will behave
after the project is finished. example: Boiled Linseed Oil is a great preservative
but will actually promote fungus and mildew when exposed to long term moisture
such as up in the PNW or the swamps of Louisiana. Pure Gum Turpentine
is a natural antibiotic so it will resist mildew and fungus in a finish
and should be used as the thinner vs mineral spirits in wet or damp environments.
 

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#11 · (Edited)
Could i refer some of my Diy customers to that article when they say they want a clear finish on their southern facing door that will last forever? Usually they want to use Minwax Spar varnish because that's what Home Depot says is the best thing. Without some kind of proof it's hard for me to convince people otherwise.

When i worked in San Diego we had a huge lure manufacturer that needed a UV stable clear to put on their lacquer painted wood lures. We tested everything on the market and nothing that could go over the lacquer would last a month without obvious dis-coloring/yellowing. Even they thought we were full of it, because they had several paint companies giving them the normal BS. (we even tested trans-oxide pigments at that time, and found them to be a bunch of hooey as well.)

And Epifanes! I haven't seen that name in years! I thought they were long gone!
 
#10 ·
Of course, you could just use Behr Marquee and not worry about all that stupid cleaning and sanding crap! It has primer RIGHT IN IT!
 
#12 ·
Again, thanks for the info Johnny. Feel somewhat guilty since it may take me less time to redo the boat benches than the time you invested in responding. Look forward to your future input here at PT with regards to wood finishes, exterior and hopefully interior as well. You have much to offer the group. Note - I put in an order for the Pettit Captain’s product.

Dan
 
#13 · (Edited)
Dan - of course you can use anything I print !!
even though clear finishing is in the bottom 5% of this forum, I still love it.
I have painted more than my fair share of houses and businesses,
I usually don't experiment with paints or equipment. I am a Brush-a-Holic.
I do not spray anything. it goes on with a Purdy brush or 18" roller and
use whatever paint fits the bill from BM, SW or Valspar.
thank you for the kind words and warm welcome. I am also a new member
of the DIYforum.
 
#15 ·
The latex aluminum primer is in stock at my local HD but not the Topside paint product. I fully believe in buying locally whenever possible, and even in ordering from my supplier if they have timely access to what I need, but when neither is an option, have to say that Amazon Prime as a third way to go can sure be great.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Dan, here is my 1959 Crestliner that my dad bought new in '59.
it has seen many repaints and color changes during its life.
I usually use the plain ole Rust-Oleum paints. this is red and white gloss enamel.
just know that aluminum expands and contracts with the temperatures
and will eventually show blisters, cracks and peels after a few years.
in Florida, I paint it every 5 years or so. the trailer is light gray Rusto.
as with any painting project, all loose and flaking paint must be removed
and lightly sanded prior to painting over sound existing paint.
(painting isn't always about houses and kitchens, is it ??).
 

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#20 · (Edited)
LOL Dan ~ I was thinking about your boat the other day.
well, since this post was resurrected, I'll add a bit to it.
I have my boat in the carport for "another" renovation and paint.
this time, I went with Pettit EZPoxy SeaFoam Green and white.
looking good so far. then I will start making new wood seats next week
out of cypress and they will get many coats of Epifanes.

oh - and since this thread, I was "promoted" to Moderator over on
the sister site, WoodWorkingTalk which to me, is an honor.

Regards to all,
Johnny

.
 

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