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Old 03-22-2018, 06:17 PM   #1
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Default Another deck prep question

I am restoring a deck and have committed to sanding the entire thing. Question is, after sanding down to raw material, do I have to "clean" or "brighten" with one of the various solvents on the market before staining it?

Thanks in advance for any responses
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Old 03-22-2018, 07:09 PM   #2
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I am restoring a deck and have committed to sanding the entire thing. Question is, after sanding down to raw material, do I have to "clean" or "brighten" with one of the various solvents on the market before staining it?

Thanks in advance for any responses
I would clean it first, and if you are not putting solid on it, then brightener would be a good idea.

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Old 03-22-2018, 07:18 PM   #3
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I would clean it first, and if you are not putting solid on it, then brightener would be a good idea.

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Clean it with a product like BM cleaner before sanding or after.
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Old 03-23-2018, 06:54 AM   #4
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If I was not clear, clean before you sand, and then use the brightener after you sand. You do not want to grind all of the dirt into the wood when you sand.

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Old 03-23-2018, 09:16 AM   #5
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and to add, you need to use a brightener after you sand to remove any dead wood fibers or residual dirt from the pores/grain of the wood before you apply a finish. This is a commonly skipped step that is actually pretty critical to getting maximum adhesion/penetration from the finish.
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Old 03-23-2018, 01:28 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 123ozzie View Post
I am restoring a deck and have committed to sanding the entire thing. Question is, after sanding down to raw material, do I have to "clean" or "brighten" with one of the various solvents on the market before staining it?

Thanks in advance for any responses
My background is commercial painting so, admittedly, my deck experience is limited to just a few efforts. But, I'm curious as to your decision to 'sand down to raw material'. If you're intending to remove the existing finish, most any of the deck strippers on the market would be faster, cheaper and less of a PITA than sanding. I've found they work quite well- put them on, wash them off. You probably don't even need a powerwasher. Follow that with a deck wash to ensure that any stripper residue is removed. If you don't, it may eat away at the new finish when it is applied. You still may have to do a little sanding here and there but not as much as I *think* you were figuring on. I hope this helps and that I didn't read your situation wrong.
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Old 03-26-2018, 06:19 PM   #7
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My background is commercial painting so, admittedly, my deck experience is limited to just a few efforts. But, I'm curious as to your decision to 'sand down to raw material'. If you're intending to remove the existing finish, most any of the deck strippers on the market would be faster, cheaper and less of a PITA than sanding. I've found they work quite well- put them on, wash them off. You probably don't even need a powerwasher. Follow that with a deck wash to ensure that any stripper residue is removed. If you don't, it may eat away at the new finish when it is applied. You still may have to do a little sanding here and there but not as much as I *think* you were figuring on. I hope this helps and that I didn't read your situation wrong.
I did this method on an mahogany deck I did last fall. I still had to sand, but it took a fraction of the time it would have if I had just sanded.

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Old 03-26-2018, 09:26 PM   #8
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I did this method on an mahogany deck I did last fall. I still had to sand, but it took a fraction of the time it would have if I had just sanded.

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I agree with pete here... Every time I use stripper on a deck, I still have to sand. The stripper does do a lot of the work, and makes sanding much faster. sanding also helps even tone on the deck out if the stain was patchy, this is crucial for transparent stains going over spotty decks, otherwise you see all the spottiness. I also agree that you need to clean, and use brightener.
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Old 03-30-2018, 10:41 PM   #9
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I restored a cedar deck last summer using Benjamin Moore products: Clean, Restore & Brighten. I finished it off with one coat of Sikkens Proluxe Cetol SRD SE.
That's a very labour intensive project to be sure!

Get yourself a stiff bristle floor brush from Home Depot. I like the one which has the brush bolted on. You need a stiff bristle brush to agitate the 3 chemicals. It's easier to remove it with a pressure washer at each step. The scrubbing is a good workout in 80 degree temp.

The last step after you brighten is to use a 1/4 sheet palm sander using 50 grit and 80 grit sandpaper. Use a leaf blower to remove the dust.

I'm not sure I want to do another one this summer. lol

Last edited by Mr Smith; 03-30-2018 at 10:46 PM..
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