jdrpainting

Good evening!

I have a bathroom partition job to do. They are steel and have the factory coating on them.

Has anyone re-painted these before? Do they need to be etched or just sanded and cleaned well before priming?

I am curious about what primer and top coat to use. I've read that latex is pretty much out of question, as for durability etc.

Your help is appreciated!

-JDR

Gough

When we've had to do these, we remove them and take them to an auto-body shop. They scuff them, seal them with an epoxy sealer, and finish them with an automotive finish. That's probably not the answer that you're after.

Repaintpro

Do you remember "tub and Tile" it's the stuff for renovating baths and wash basins. It is an epoxy based product, in the realms of hard to brush and roll but it should stick!

It was recommended to me again after just forgetting about it...........worked a treat. Yes on the same type of construction. The dividers here are using a very smooth compressed sheet (waterproof I assume)

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kmp

I've done them a couple of times, used oil both times,sanded , cleaned and painted,
One set was in place lot's of masking.the other set was taken down and done off site. Got lucky the carpenters did'nt ding when they got re-hung.
Iwould think that a good DTM would work. I've had good results with S/W.
When I did them it was n.c. so they were clean.You for obvious reasons ,want them very clean if they been in service for awhile.

Epoxy Pro

I guess this painting contractor forum doesn't have any professional painters.
Also the link you provided has absolutely nothing to do with painting at all.

Boco

PPG tank and structural steel primer (OIL) followed by a top coat of industrial oil enamel. Looks great and will take alot of abuse. Did some last summer with an airless and a 211 tip. They did look great but an An HVLP would have been a lot easier.

CApainter

If you can't spray the privacy screens with a conversion coating that will resist corrosion from urine, cleansers, and disinfectants, the next best thing to do is replace them. We have frequently chosen the replacement route rather than paint. I have installed several, and find that they are not that hard to install. This is one of those instances where I will remove and replace a fixture.

TrueColors

I use to paint lots of bathroom partitions when I worked for the school board. They would give us semigloss oil based paint to paint the partitions. As far as I know they held up great. Just remember to wear a mask so your not sanding piss particles into the air when your prepping


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Criard

Tub and Tile or just about any oil-base paint will work

Oden

Electrostatic.
Gonna be doing a handful soon. With my new internet capabilities on the phone I'll see if I can get up some pics.
The existing are like new really. Just calling for a color change. Electrostat they'll look factory made. Brand new.

Lambrecht

I have done a ton of these in factory bathrooms. Clean with Krud Kutter, scuff sand with scotchbite pads, clean again, apply 2 coats of PPG DTM Acrylic High Gloss 90-310 with a 1/2"nap microfiber roller cover and your done. The finish will lay out smooth and slick and will dry quickly so downtime is minimal. I have only been called back once to touch-up because of failure and that turned out to be the cleaning crews fault because they used goof off to remove some graffiti. And they did not just use a little goof off they really laid it on and let it sit before taking a scrub brush to it.

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Roamer

I'm with Oden on this one. Electrostatic, all the way. Factory finish with little to no over spray. We've done many bathroom stalls this way. We sub the work to an electrostatic company. We just had them paint the wrought iron fence around the Washington Nationals' stadium with an electrostatic sprayer. Factory finish without having to hit every nook and crany.

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Boco

I have a job I am bidding now with 8 stalls in total. Some of the panels are in pretty piss poor shape. How much does it cost to replace panels ?

RH

A sh!t load.


Actually, I think they run around $150 for steel.

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journeymanPainter

Scrape and sand Abby rust off, hit those areas with rust primer, and then I would use a high quality patching compound (or bondo) then finish

journeymanPainter

Are you in the Vancouver area? No offence, but why leave a gravy train like the school board?

PremierPaintingMa

HaHa! Good 1 RH

CApainter

I've ordered urinal partitions from Global Industrial. RH quoted the price for stainless pretty accurately.

Boco

I will have to get a hold of global tomorrow. Owner wants 2 of them replaced and remaining primed and painted. Next I am going to add some removable Stainsteel panels to the trouble areas so if they get to bad i can just replace the SS panal instead of painted partition. I just purchased a hvlp for the job but electrostatic would be the best option. Only problem with electro static is the cost of the paint. That electro paint aint cheap.