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Old 08-29-2017, 04:12 PM   #1
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Default BM217 oil underbody

Never used this before. Is this a thick bodied product?

Is this close to being usable via 5 stage hvlp or is this an airless/AAA only for spray use?


Like almost every primer TDS, thinning is not recommended.

If I wanted or needed to thin for turbine hvlp use, am I using napatha or mineral spirits or neither? I know on a scale of quickness it's something like acetone, Japan dryer, napatha, mineral spirits than way long open would be something like linseed oil.

With airless I'd assume zero thinning or a little napatha.

With turbine heat I think spirits and or penetrol would be appreciated.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:05 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sayn3ver View Post
Never used this before. Is this a thick bodied product?

Is this close to being usable via 5 stage hvlp or is this an airless/AAA only for spray use?


Like almost every primer TDS, thinning is not recommended.

If I wanted or needed to thin for turbine hvlp use, am I using napatha or mineral spirits or neither? I know on a scale of quickness it's something like acetone, Japan dryer, napatha, mineral spirits than way long open would be something like linseed oil.

With airless I'd assume zero thinning or a little napatha.

With turbine heat I think spirits and or penetrol would be appreciated.
It is high solids and slow drying. It sands extremely well but can take 2 days before it's ready depending on conditions and mil thickness. Use airless or AAA. Thinning just to use turbine defeats the purpose IMO. We use this on new wood cabs and custom trim packs.

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Old 08-29-2017, 09:39 PM   #3
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Is there a quicker dry oil that sands to a powder that has less body?

Or due to epa are all oils are like acrylic wall paint out of the can?
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Old 08-31-2017, 04:41 AM   #4
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You can try Easy Sand from SW. Will get the drying time you want, but buy a couple of extra packs of respirator cartridges it is some nasty stuff (or was when I used to do milwork)

But if you're hell bent on spraying with an HVLP you could try a lacquer undercoater.
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Old 08-31-2017, 09:50 AM   #5
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Sw said it's not available in NJ. I tried getting a gallon before posting this.
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Old 08-31-2017, 11:46 AM   #6
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217 is a good primer. I think it will spray through the hvlp with thinner just fine although it is slow going compared to airless. I almost always sand my primer coat on millwork, doors, etc. But i shot this stuff on straight with a 410 and 310 and only sanded some edges and places where primer landed on some horizontal surfaces, etc.

It lays down smooth very nicely if you put it on correctly. With the airless and a 410, I was moving the gun slower than with the acrylic topcoat, and hitting every angle 2 passes at least.

So corners of window casing, and door jambs got 4 passes and I had zero primer runs. Unthinned...
I shot topcoats at the end of the day following primer, so 24 hrs drytime. More ventilation helps that time.
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Old 08-31-2017, 07:31 PM   #7
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I know it's oil but how is the smell?
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Old 09-01-2017, 04:05 PM   #8
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You want to wear your respirator with good cartridges and pre-filters and don't even mess with breathing it.
For a millpack job I would use a full-face respirator. You'll get covered with oil if you're doing door jambs and walking through, etc. I was just doing a big millpack and sprayed upstairs seperate of downstairs. Coat of 217 primer then 2 topcoats. I wore my fullface for all coats except 1 coat of the durapoxy, it sucked really bad and stung the crap out of my eyes in the rooms with wall to wall wainscot and window casing.
And the day after the primer coat, I couldn't be in those gassy rooms without the fullface the fumes hurt the eyes quickly.

Comparatively, there are harsher oil products, like z-prime, easy sand... 217 is milder.
The smell is not harsh with a little spray work going and lots of ventilation. But once you're spraying out rooms or an entire job, The vapors can be immensely strong.
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Old 09-02-2017, 10:50 AM   #9
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I always wear my respirator with proper cartridges.

I only have a 1/2 mask not a full face with integrated shield.

Was concerned with residual smell not necessarily during application.

Thanks for the input.
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