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Old 07-21-2015, 05:39 PM   #1
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Default Deck questions

Hey all,

I have not much experience with decks, so my knowledge on the subject is lacking. I only get called for decks 3-4 times a year and last few times I have used decks capes in the past(water based), I wasn't to happy with the way it turned out.
The deck in question is a 25' X 36' PT with handrail and 2 sets of stairs. Its about 3 or 4 years old with one stain job. Stain was applied first year after deck was built. They used Porter Acri-Shield stain semi-transparent acrylic/oil. HO wants another semi in the same tint to still see wood grain. He stated that the stain never bonded to the wood, and flaked off. The deck had some graying and there were plenty of spots on the deck that were bare where sizable portions of the stain was missing.

I've read some threads on here and there seems to be conflicting answers on product to use for stain and prep. I have a pressure washer, and was planning on chemical stripper with power wash to clean it off. Stain a day or two later.

Will this be adequate, or do I need to sand after to bare wood (from my experience PW only removes some of the stain without scarring the wood). I assume I should use an oil stain, what products are you guys using right now with success. Since I won't be doing many decks a year, I don't mind traveling for products that yield great results.

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:56 PM   #2
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Yeah, go ahead and sand it. 60 grit or so, take it all the way down. No better prep you can do IMO.

The original oil Olympic Max, and the Cabbot oil have worked pretty well for me. Nothing is going to last more than 3-4 years at best if the deck gets much sun.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:10 AM   #3
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:07 AM   #4
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Ask a forum full of painters about process or products and you're bound to get some conflicting opinions. A few things about decks that are nearly undisputed, even on PT, are:

-Make sure and neutralize after stripping, unless you're specific product states otherwise.

-Wait more than 1-2 days between wash & re-coat to be safe. 3-4 days is probably good, but no harm in taking a moisture reading first.

-TWP, Armstrong Clark, Bakers & Wood Tux are all good stains.

-Although the convenience of water-based stains is nice, oil is still best for decks in regards to longevity and maintenance.

-As Jmays said, sanding will insure a sound substrate, but don't go higher, (finer), in grit than 80.
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Old 07-22-2015, 05:50 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies, I was so hoping not to hear that sanding is necessary. So from reading other post, I should PW, then treat with oxalic acid, sand any remaining stain off/scuff sand rest of boards so wood will accept oil based stain. Or do I have the order backwards with acid and wash. I haven't submitted bill yet and as far as I know it is mine. I am just trying to figure my labor cost out. Im sure I will underbid or lose money somewhere in this, but being prepared will help. Thanks again
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:58 PM   #6
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No scuff.. if you are using a semi trans you have to remove all of the previous product if you go with a penetrating oil.

You would chemically strip first, then use oxalic immediately after.

A fair price would be square footage of floor x $4-$4.50 if a relatively easy strip, top handrail sanding, two coats on horizontals.
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Old 07-23-2015, 02:47 AM   #7
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Thanks pressure pros for the numbers, I think I will plan 2 days for prep and day to stain. There is a pergola I can tarp off to protect from direct sun. Is there a brand of stripper and neutralizer that is easy to get and yields good results. I will go with one of the stains recommend in this thread, doing a little reading on them now. Feel a little better that the prep isn't going to be as hard as I first thought. Was picturing hand sanding for days.
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:06 AM   #8
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I do the whole thing, I find it to be necessary (especially if you're gonna put semi trans) to do a proper job, and it actually does a great job. First I chemically remove prior stains/paints using an appropriate product, then neutralize and bleach the wood. I ricne in between with the PW, but I keep it far from the wood to avoid damage and wear and use the large tip (40degrees). Don't do water blasting (as a member here said) it's not meant for wood! Then I sand using 50 then 80 grit paper.

For SM Stain I like Sansis DEC (NOT the SDF from the same company). It's the best product I've found and it is environmentally friendly (and water based). You can use it on decks right above the ground or elevated with more ventilation, sidings, etc... It's a company based in Canada so I don't know how easy you can get their products in the USA.

[QUOTE=Jmayspaint;864346
Nothing is going to last more than 3-4 years at best if the deck gets much sun.[/QUOTE]

That's just a fact of life... and here we have lots of snow and full 4 seasons, not very wood friendly....

Last edited by Jazz_Painter; 07-26-2015 at 01:13 AM..
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