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Old 11-13-2008, 12:26 PM   #1
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Default Drywall repair kit

on a wallpaper forum, someone posted this link:

www.prest-on.com

These are metal clips for doing sheet rock repairs, instead of using a piece of wood behind the wall. The poster had just used them and thinks they were awesome.

I guess they are also called "wall-frogs" and have been around for some time - I had never seen them

There's a video on the site.

(this is in no way an endorsement - just information for us gadget junkies)

-Bill



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Old 11-13-2008, 01:09 PM   #2
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Billy, I have been using those drywall clips (I just get the ones at Menards) for a while now. Work fine for drywall repair if your splice is in the middle of a span. for larger repairs I often will use sister studs and drywall clips to get a solid repair. I bed joint and tape with the system called Krack Kote or Pro Kote from TKO. You can pick that up at BM. The big advantage to their fiberglass tape is that it is so thin that it is very easy to cover with out a mud ridge. It is much better than paper tape too (thinner also). With the bed joint of the Krack Kote and their fiberglass mesh over it the joint should never reopen. I use a 20 drywall compound for my top coat so that I can sand it smooth. The Krack Kote says it doesn't need to be sanded: I have never been able to lay it down that smooth. When you do sand it, it is very time consuming. I learned of this system from and older handyman type who swears by it and that never once has one of his cracks reopened.
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Old 11-13-2008, 04:03 PM   #3
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A much faster, easier and by far cheaper way here - Do as he does at the beginning of the video. Cut a square piece of board but chamfer (angle) the four edges. Then cut out the same size on the wall but with chamfered edges too. Check that it fits in snuggly then stick some fast set compound on the edges of your hole filler piece and stick it in. Job done.

It's a method I've used for years and works extremely well without the hastle of of buying patching repair kits.

Edit: You can use any left over fast set to coat the tapes.

Last edited by TooledUp; 11-13-2008 at 04:07 PM..
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:35 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooledUp View Post
A much faster, easier and by far cheaper way here - Do as he does at the beginning of the video. Cut a square piece of board but chamfer (angle) the four edges. Then cut out the same size on the wall but with chamfered edges too. Check that it fits in snuggly then stick some fast set compound on the edges of your hole filler piece and stick it in. Job done.

It's a method I've used for years and works extremely well without the hastle of of buying patching repair kits.

Edit: You can use any left over fast set to coat the tapes.
Why didn't I think of that!!!
That idea is now mine TU
Not seen anyone ever do that here in my time on site/jobs.

11/10 sir!

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Old 11-13-2008, 06:57 PM   #5
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Not seen anyone ever do that here in my time on site/jobs.
I get that a lot. lol It's a simple idea but everyone says "why the heck didn't I think of that". You can use it for ceilings too, just chamfer the edges the opposite way around. Put a screw/nail through the back of the patching piece to pull it down.
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:31 PM   #6
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I have another method. Say the damaged area was 5" x 8". What I would do is take a piece of drywall and cut it 7" x 10" square(2 inches bigger than the actual damaged area). I would then cut the back paper of the drywall 5" x 8" the exact measurement of the damaged. I would then remove the back paper and gypsum leaving the face paper untouched. So, what ya have left is a sheet of drywall that has a 2'' flap all the way around. Fit that perfect 5'' x 8'' piece into the hole with the flaps flush to the outer wall. Slap your tape and mud, zero screws. Anything much bigger I would go stud to stud.
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timhag View Post
I have another method. Say the damaged area was 5" x 8". What I would do is take a piece of drywall and cut it 7" x 10" square(2 inches bigger than the actual damaged area). I would then cut the back paper of the drywall 5" x 8" the exact measurement of the damaged. I would then remove the back paper and gypsum leaving the face paper untouched. So, what ya have left is a sheet of drywall that has a 2'' flap all the way around. Fit that perfect 5'' x 8'' piece into the hole with the flaps flush to the outer wall. Slap your tape and mud, zero screws. Anything much bigger I would go stud to stud.
Actually you would have a 1" flap all the way around.
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:35 PM   #8
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Actually you would have a 1" flap all the way around.
Why are you going to try and play with my head???? There would be a two inch flap. Why are you doing this to me???? You make my head hurt.
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:36 PM   #9
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Actually you would have a 1" flap all the way around.
If there were a one inch flap the drywall would not fit. I am really trying hard not to name call.
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timhag View Post
Why are you going to try and play with my head???? There would be a two inch flap. Why are you doing this to me???? You make my head hurt.
If you cut the board 2 inches larger than the hole, then trim it to size from the back so you have a flap all the way around, that would leave a 1" flap on each side.
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:45 PM   #11
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Tim, you are completely 100% useless I think.
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timhag View Post
I have another method. Say the damaged area was 5" x 8". What I would do is take a piece of drywall and cut it 7" x 10" square(2 inches bigger than the actual damaged area). I would then cut the back paper of the drywall 5" x 8" the exact measurement of the damaged. I would then remove the back paper and gypsum leaving the face paper untouched. So, what ya have left is a sheet of drywall that has a 2'' flap all the way around. Fit that perfect 5'' x 8'' piece into the hole with the flaps flush to the outer wall. Slap your tape and mud, zero screws. Anything much bigger I would go stud to stud.
Also why you need to tape it? If you have a flap there, it's kinda acting like tape isn't it? Couldn't you just put some mud on the wall, press your flap against it, and skim it like you would with tape?
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Old 11-13-2008, 11:02 PM   #13
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Ok so Mr. Tim Hackerty just called me on the phone...

First words were "If I have a piece of board that is 5x8, and cut it to 7x10". Wooooow buddy, better go get the drywall stretcher if you plan on cutting it larger than it already is.

Then he argued to the death that he will have a 2" flap all the way around after cutting it out. After breaking it down into terms my 1 year old daughter would understand, it got very silent.

Last words: Now I gotta go think of something to f-ing type to make me look good on this.

We all love you Timma.
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Old 11-13-2008, 11:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNLP View Post
Ok so Mr. Tim Hackerty just called me on the phone...

First words were "If I have a piece of board that is 5x8, and cut it to 7x10". Wooooow buddy, better go get the drywall stretcher if you plan on cutting it larger than it already is.

Then he argued to the death that he will have a 2" flap all the way around after cutting it out. After breaking it down into terms my 1 year old daughter would understand, it got very silent.

Last words: Now I gotta go think of something to f-ing type to make me look good on this.

We all love you Timma.
Ummm, how could I call if I don't have your number? Why would I call you? I put the 2" thing on there because I knew someone like you would go nuts over it. Please read my signature. Thank you.
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Old 11-13-2008, 11:11 PM   #15
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Out West I've always heard that called a California patch Tim.
Another trick was to take a piece of cardboard about 2" bigger then the hole, poke a hole through the middle and tie a string to it, then smear mud it and push it through the hole, than pull it tight to the inside of the wall and let it dry. Than cut the string. I've also heard this called a California patch.
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Old 11-13-2008, 11:22 PM   #16
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the Calif hot patch is a tried and true method - I like it because there is no need for tape. BUT, I also have realized for some larger holes, having a piece of wood backing up the patch, makes for a more solid repair.

The more tools we have in or bag of tricks, the better, IMO

-Bill



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Old 11-13-2008, 11:34 PM   #17
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the Calif hot patch is a tried and true method - I like it because there is no need for tape. BUT, I also have realized for some larger holes, having a piece of wood backing up the patch, makes for a more solid repair.

The more tools we have in or bag of tricks, the better, IMO

-Bill
I put the tape for added security. Love you Arch!
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Old 11-13-2008, 11:39 PM   #18
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Ummm, how could I call if I don't have your number? Why would I call you? I put the 2" thing on there because I knew someone like you would go nuts over it. Please read my signature. Thank you.
Yeah ok honey. You call me every day & you know it. Hell you get me in trouble for waking the kid up daily from my yelling at you for being so stupid.


You put tape on for added security? It's not gonna hold your ass from going through it so why bother? Do we need to bring up the "How To Do A Tim Hag" thread again?
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Old 11-14-2008, 12:16 AM   #19
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Yeah ok honey. You call me every day & you know it. Hell you get me in trouble for waking the kid up daily from my yelling at you for being so stupid.
You put tape on for added security? It's not gonna hold your ass from going through it so why bother? Do we need to bring up the "How To Do A Tim Hag" thread again?
Dude, what don't you understand about "I do not have your number"? Yes, please bring up the "How to do a TimHag" thread so some of the members can see the proper way of repairing drywall.
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Old 11-14-2008, 02:25 AM   #20
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New here guys..

I go stud to stud if hole is large enough, but if small I use wood backers 1X2's usually. I trim ~ 1" of the paper off both the wall and the patch piece. I then attach the patch on, put some mud in the void (area where paper is taken off) put my mesh tape in there and skim a coat of 20 min mud over the top. Usually start with the mud pretty "hot" or thick. This makes it dry faster, and then skim over the top of that flush to the wall, sand and there is no visible "hump" to the wall. A couple extra steps are needed, but the end product is very nice

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