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Old 11-11-2013, 11:37 PM   #1
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Default Garage floor painting.

I have a large concrete floor at a motor mechanics workshop to do. Its bare concrete and has some oil residue in a few areas.
My plan is to powerwash, then acid etch the concrete with a broom.
Can I apply paint to the floor when dry or do I need to rinse off the acid ? I'm planning to use a water based semi gloss paving paint in medium grey. I don't wish to mess around with 2 part floor coatings.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:37 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian C View Post
I have a large concrete floor at a motor mechanics workshop to do. Its bare concrete and has some oil residue in a few areas.
My plan is to powerwash, then acid etch the concrete with a broom.
Can I apply paint to the floor when dry or do I need to rinse off the acid ? I'm planning to use a water based semi gloss paving paint in medium grey. I don't wish to mess around with 2 part floor coatings.

Grind it, acid etch and two part epoxy, anything else and you are asking for trouble.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:02 AM   #3
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Exactly what 97audia4 said, grind it don't waste your time with acids.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:43 AM   #4
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Always degrease before grinding. Not after.

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Old 11-12-2013, 11:10 PM   #5
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Yes apply a solution of Concrete cleaner and degreaser with a mop hitting oil spots undilluted with a spray bottle then powerwash, I am not sure the product you wanted to use but a two part epoxy has proven to hold up well.

If you do use acid to etch you Must powerwash it away once etching is complete as I understand it remains active and can make the concrete surface brittle and you may get peeling or scratching.

I have seen lots of failed surfaces and every time the home owner or painter did not clean off the acid or etch properly I have seen 2 part epoxies fail as well and make sure the concrete is as dry as can be. Do not skimp on materials or prep or ya may end up with a floor that will never stop peeling.

I have also repaired damaged concrete "Flaking" with concrete leveler but have never followed up to see if it held.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:32 PM   #6
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Don't always need to grind, you can rent the big floor polishers and 3M makes sanding disks for them, they do the trick! As said you need to degrease before hand. A good degrease, wash, sand and blow/wash has done the trick for me and others I've worked with.

Also, make sure you take into consideration what fluids will be leaking, spilled, sprayed or splattered onto this floor. I see anything shy of an epoxy failing much quicker than you'd like to see. Just my two pennies!
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:55 AM   #7
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gabe has a great video and how to on here somewhear, I would not do water base on that job
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Old 10-23-2014, 03:51 PM   #8
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Because of the complexity and iffiness of the job you described: spilled car fluid(s) and their compositions, adhesion issue, dry times, etc, we don't offer our standard warranty of two years on such surfaces and work. But we will take such jobs and have learned that following every step thoroughly, including generous dry times, is essential for paint to last.
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:17 PM   #9
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If you plan to stand behind your product, degrees and grid! You can't go wrong putting the extra time and effort into a floor. I always put in an extra few hundred dollars plus to cover girding.

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Old 11-04-2014, 06:35 PM   #10
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I would sub it to a pro floor guy. But I don't like doing any floors.
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Old 11-04-2014, 06:46 PM   #11
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agree, its not something I specialise in doing, but was trying to help a friend of mine out with his new workshop floor.
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:00 PM   #12
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If you plan to stand behind your product, degrees and grid! You can't go wrong putting the extra time and effort into a floor. I always put in an extra few hundred dollars plus to cover girding.

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OK, I've got it gridded and girdded, what's the next step?
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #13
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Those jobs for friends can be tricky. Make sure you can pull if off and let him know it's not your forte. Good luck.
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:38 AM   #14
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OK, I've got it gridded and girdded, what's the next step?
Depends on the degree of prep you have in the bid. If we have girded the floor, we do not acid etch the floor because 1. There really isn't a need too. 2. The acid could come back and bite you later, especially if someone doesn't mix the solution correctly. Regarding a finish, we use ArmorSeal HS 1000. I'd prime the floor with ARMORSEAL 33 EPOXY PRIMER/SEALER, then apply ArmorSeal HS 1000 as a finish. However, there are many ways to skin a cat in this business. We also use Pitt-Guard as an alternative, which is MUCH cheaper but will give you good results.

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Last edited by tjdrake; 11-06-2014 at 11:47 AM.. Reason: typos
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Old 11-07-2014, 06:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by tjdrake View Post
Depends on the degree of prep you have in the bid. If we have girded the floor, we do not acid etch the floor because 1. There really isn't a need too. 2. The acid could come back and bite you later, especially if someone doesn't mix the solution correctly. Regarding a finish, we use ArmorSeal HS 1000. I'd prime the floor with ARMORSEAL 33 EPOXY PRIMER/SEALER, then apply ArmorSeal HS 1000 as a finish. However, there are many ways to skin a cat in this business. We also use Pitt-Guard as an alternative, which is MUCH cheaper but will give you good results.

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Thank-you.
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Old 11-28-2014, 12:01 PM   #16
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If you are trying to do your friend a favor listen to the other posts.
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