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#1 |
Kev D.
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newfoundland Can.
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![]() I usually don't get into re-finishing harwood floors if I don't have to. (Not glorious work). However, what type of clear coat do you prefer using ?
Also, If you were doing a complete re-paint as well, would you prefer to do the floors first or last? Thoughts? |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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![]() I like ZAR UltraMax. Floors last usually.
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#3 |
Dry as Rye
Join Date: Nov 2011
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![]() Floors last. If they were stair treads that were raw, I'd say stain them and then at least a single topcoat before breaking into paint. If they're being refinished, floors last and expect to touch up the base.
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#4 |
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![]() Some of the most durable finished on the market these days are the waterborne floor finishes. I did the floors in my house with a product called Street Shoe by Basic Coatings and i have been blown away. You can recoat this stuff in half an hour and after a year, the durability is outstanding. The only issue is that it isn't cheap. I think I spend something like $80/gallon for this stuff. There are other good waterborne finishes out there by Bona and I think a couple other places too, but according to my research Street Shoe was the top of the food chain.
There are also moisture cure finishes out there that are as good or better, but the smell from these products is horrific. I have heard of people opening jars in the refrigerator after their floors were done and they said they could smell the finish in the jar. Nasty stuff. |
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#5 |
Kev D.
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newfoundland Can.
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![]() Great stuff guys. Floors are being re-finished, so I'm assuming a modest amount of sanding should be done on them first, so I don't kick a bunch of dust on my finished walls...Maybe a first coat too. Finish the ceiling, walls, etc. then final coat(s) on floors.
If floors were a type of Varnish before, would you trust one of those acrylic products over that? |
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#6 | |
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